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Pontiac Forum: 2000 Grand am se 2.4 crankshaft question.
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  #1  
Old November 24th, 2017, 05:47 PM
Heathw Heathw is offline
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2000 Grand am se 2.4 crankshaft question.

I'm replacing the crankshaft and bearings I have already purchased a crankshaft from Autozone and turned in the old one for core. What I didn't realize is that they do not put a oil pump sprocket on the crankshaft customer is supposed to remove the sprocket from shaft before returning it for core. I have another 2.4 I can take the crank out of but before I do does anyone know how that sprocket comes off. I don't see a keyway or bolt holes on the new crank. So if anyone has some knowledge about this I would really appreciate the info! Thanks
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Old November 25th, 2017, 10:38 AM
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found this on another site

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...82822&t=382822
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Old December 17th, 2017, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the info melsg5 I did read it but got rediculously busy. Sorry for not replying. I have installed all new bearings, crankshaft, oil pump took balancer housing apart to rid it of metal fragments and getting ready to button up the bottom end so I can flip the motor and install cam housings new timing chain and components. Hope to drop her in the car by Tuesday. I do have a question though. With all the small metal shavings there is places you can't see like oil passages and so on, is there a product that I can put in the oil to help flush them areas out or do I do several oil changes for a couple weeks until it is free of foreign material?
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Old December 18th, 2017, 05:48 PM
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the flushing/blowing out of metal should have occurred when the block was completely disassembled. A running engine is not the way to do it. I would change the filter and oil after 20 minutes of operation and hope nothing gets damaged.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 06:27 PM
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Rookie mistake! Oil pan is still off cause I didn't have a brass feeler gauge to set the balancer chain tensioner so I'm going to pull oil plugs on the block and tear it down again. I don't want to be doing this all over again anytime soon! Really don't know why it didn't dawn on me before now that if metal shavings are in oil pan and pump that they would be in all the oil passages. I'm heading for the garage and a late night of turning wrenches! Thanks melsg5
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Old December 19th, 2017, 12:00 PM
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more work now but better than having to do the whole job all over again.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 09:45 PM
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I couldn't agree more and I appreciate you being direct with me. Got her all back together think I finally got in bed around 3:30am alarm went off at 5:30am but I'm back at it. Got the crankshaft 90 degrees off top dead center getting ready to install cam housings and timing components!
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 06:53 PM
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Motor is back in the car! Have a few bugs to work out. Car will idle at 7 to 900 rpm then drop to about 200 almost die then jump back to normal. I have a service engine light so going to pull codes tomorrow but definitely going to replace camshaft sensor, oil pressure sensor, and knock sensor. I'm doing that just because of the amount of miles on them and the oil sensor was starting to leak and the part on the cam sensor that reads the cam rotation looked rough figure I may as well make sure they are new cause they are going to probably fail sooner than later.
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Old January 15th, 2018, 07:39 PM
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Have a couple questions I hope someone can help me out with. I installed new crank main and rod bearings oil pump water pump new timing chain and components. Took cam housings apart and flushed to remove any metal shavings reinstalled cam and lifters to original positions. What would be the recommended break in process. Also I have started the car several times as soon as it starts it idles around 1000rpm's very smooth I will add. About thirty seconds in it drops to its normal idle at about 600 rpm's and is very rough then it dies. Soon as I start it again fires right up and repeats the same thing over. I do have a light on but my buddies code reader shot craps. I'm going to check throttle position sensor with multimeter tonight and I did check the rubber hose from the IAC it's in great shape. Any other suggestions that I could look into? Thanks Heath
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Old January 16th, 2018, 11:51 AM
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you are using the same cam and lifters so I would just take it easy for a few hundred miles. not sure what you mean about the code reader, if you mean you have no reading check the fuse that powers the cigarette lighter the port uses the same fuse.
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