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2006 clicking noise in dash

carnut

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I have a 2006 vibe when i turn on the key and when the car is running i get a clicking sound coming from the center dash area ? is this some type of relay problem
 

jshell55

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clicking noise in dash

Hi, Carnut:

My daughter is having exactly the same problem in her 04.

After some fooling we've determined that the clicking noise goes away when you turn on the "air recirculation" switch, located just under the AC button.

If you open the glove compartment, and reach behind the glove compartment to the soft vent, you can actually stop the clicking by applying some pressure.

In her case, around ATL, she discovered it last week when she turned on her heater for the first time. I suppose you are up around DTR or somewhere...hence got to find it in early september.

I think it's either some POS obstructing that vent door from closing all the way or more likely a leak in the vacuum line that controls that vent door.

There's a vacuum manifold in the motor compartment on the firewall, and there is a line that runs through the firewall at roughly that position, and I am inclined to try to tighten the fitting and see if that fixes it.

Plan B is the leak is where the receiver is, attached to that vent door somehow. Gonna have to remove the glove compartment to inspect it.
 

jshell55

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here we go:

Replied on August 08, 2010

I had the same issue with my 2005 Vibe. The noise is caused by the servo mechanism that opens/closes the ventilation door (fresh air mode/recirculate air mode). One of the gears inside the mechanism is stripped, which is causing it to slip.

Good news is you can fix this yourself. Just remove the glove compartment door, reach in with a very small ratchet and 5.5mm socket; there are 2 screws to remove.


http://http://www.2carpros.com/questions/pontiac-vibe-2003-pontiac-vibe-noise-in-dash
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jshell55

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here is a further bit of information:

I have that similar problem and found out that flap will close when you turn on the recirculation on, this mean that air is not entering from the outside. The gear that drive that flap is broken (may be one or more tooth of that gear is broke), so the best thing is to change the motor assemble. I found that part is called Air Inlet Valve (actuator), AC Delco part number 15-72794 or 88970277. The cheapest place that I found so far is $33 from autopartsgiant.com. Not sure how to change it yet, you can see it if you take the globe box out.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Activating recirculate eliminates the clicking. However recirc prevents fresh air from entering the ventilation system.

Here is a cheap and easy way to address the problem:

In lieu of replacing the flap motor (a $250 + job at a shop), you can simply unplug the electrical connector to the motor. I found that that leaves the flap in the open position for fresh air, which can still be air conditioned or heated (but not as efficiently as in a recirc mode). If you go this route, the recirc light will go on when the button is pushed but the flap will not close the system off to fresh air because the motor that operates the flap is disconnected.

I you really must have both fresh air and recirculate you can install an on-off switch in one of the power lines to the motor. Off for fresh air, on for recirculate. I haven't done this but it should work.

The electrical connector for the flap motor can be reached by removing the glove compartment door. The owner's manual shows how to do this - see the instruction for replacing the passenger compartment air filter. For those who don't have the manual, open the glove box, disconnect the brace on the right side (philip screw), and pull the glove box up, off of its bottom snap-on hinges.

The flap motor is mounted on the upper left side of the ventilation box.



Here is a better, PERMANENT fix http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=29575

I posted that a while back when I had the same problem.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_flap_motor_and_what_is_it_used_for_2004_pontiac_vibe_clicking_in_dashboard_behind_glove_compartment_and_is_it_a_serious_problem#ixzz1b5uWpf7K
 

jshell55

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Update: I tackled this job today.

Equipment needed: Microratchet with 5.5mm socket (7/32 also works), flexible screw driver, adjustable light, duct tape, automotive grade GOOP, medical supplies. Pliers, regular screwdriver.

I ordered the part from www.autopartstomorrow.com, it cost me 50 bucks including shipping and arrived the second business day.

I removed the glove compartment door, no problemo, snaps right off, because the piston on the left hand side has already broken off the door.

Located the part. It's at the upper left of the cavity, all you can see is where the electrical connector is. It's dark and you cannot see squat, everything is black plastic.

Removed the blue electrical connector locking tab with the pliers. Using a screwdriver pried up the little clip on the connector and removed it from the part.

Next, located the two screws that hold the part onto the housing for the vent. the lower one is visible, the upper one is behind the post on the part and completely invisible.

These two screws are practically impossible to get off. The bottom one is the easier of the two. It's the classic situation where you can't use the ratchet, because the screw is too loose to make it click when you need to, but it's too much torque to loosen up with your fingers.

to make matters worse, you scrape your wrist on the corner of the vent housing, which is not only sharp, but because of molding issues has a little piece of plastic flash on it that gouges into your skin.

Managed to get the lower one off... the upper one was completely impossible to remove... you can't see it, there is not enough clearance to get your ratchet in there, and no way to turn the thing by hand. Oh and did I mention that you need to be left handed, plus a yoga instructor to work in that area?

p.s. If you're tempted to try to loosen up the entire housing using the four screws on the sides, forget it. You can take'em off, but you can't get 'em back on...and it did not make that part loose enough to improve the access to that upper screw


I got one of those 15 dollar flexible screwdrivers, and I was able to just barely get the top screw moving with that to the point that the part would wiggle enough to break it off with a screwdriver... I was conflicted on this but frankly, it had to be done. Using the pliers, managed to remove the upper screw...

Installed the new part, relatively straightforward to get the lower screw in, said "no way" on the upper screw. Used sufficient automotive grade GOOP and duct tape, secured the part to the fullest extent possible, the functionality test was successful.

.

Job done. Not well done, not done the right way, but done. when the GOOP hardens, that thing will be fine. If it lasts for another 8 years, it will probably exceed the lifetime of the vehicle, no one but me and you will remember what I did. In the unlikely event that it does break, the "unplug it" option is still available.

So, if I had to do it over, would I do it again? I dunno, the jury is still out. If the fix lasts awhile, I am probably good, and the three hour drain on my life force, plus blunt force trauma to my head from beating it against a wall, plus the blood and gore on my wrists was probably worth the 100 or so bucks I probably saved by not taking it in and letting a professional have at it.

All I know for sure is, the clicking is gone, all is well, except that the inside smells like solvent, and I think I am good to go....
 

JPark

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Same problem. A couple of things that might help:
- Rather than ordering a new part, some people have had success taking the actuator apart (it's held together by a couple of clips), rotating the big white gear 180 degrees, and putting it back together. Usually the problem is a couple of broken teeth on that gear. Since it doesn't rotate all the way around the teeth on the opposite side never get used, so they should be fresh and good to go.

- For getting the screws out: Some people have had luck with a 1/4" ratchet. I didn't. I eventually used a socket with a rubber band wrapped around it a bunch of times so I could get a better grip, and just did it by hand. That worked better than any of the various tools I tried.
 

NAVYSEALDOG

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2006 Vibe - Clicking Noise in Passenger Dash Fixed Today

My favorite neighbor and I replaced the air inlet actuator today. Clicking noise under passenger dash is now history.

Tedious but not necessary to remove dash.

Dealership wanted $455+ tax to replace so with guidance from our friends who provided links in this thread, I bought the part for $65 including shipping (Thanks to all who posted here!).

Took me an hour with several breaks to massage my left thumb cramps. The TWO tiny screws (7/32) are difficult to reach but this can be done WITH patience. Most of the instructions in this thread are correct but I would add a couple of things that we did.

The 2006 Vibe has a thin semmingly useless metal brace/support running from the firewall to the dash. Remove the nut on the front (dash) end of that brace and bend it down and left a couple of inches. This gave us about 1.5 extra inches to get my hand in this already tight spot. Every little bit counts. When the job is complete, just bend it back up and replace the nut. If you have this brace, you'll know what I mean.

Test the new part before you install. After you unplug the old part, plug in the new one and make sure it works (it's a cheap part). Turn on and off the recirc button and you will see the motor (very low torque) splin the gear forward and backward depending on the position of the dash recirc button. Maybe not necessary but we wanted to avoid as many headaches as possible. While the new part test was in full swing, we held the old part next to the new one and lined up the gears using the dash recirc button. I dont know if it makes any difference but I wanted the new part to be perfectly aligned with the old one. Would not suggest turning the gears manually (ie: screwdriver) - let the motor do the work while you are testing the part. Remember..... you are replacing a broken part that was not well manufactured (plastic gears). My thinking was the new part would strip just as easy.

Consider disconnecting the battery. Someone here may be able to tell us for sure but we were fearful of accidentally triggering the passenger dash aribag.

We had to know what caused this so we took a pic of the broken part . Cheap plastic gears.

Here's what we did in summary:
With patience:
Remove Glove Box
Unplug old part
Plug in new part and test
Align gear in new part to match old part
Disconnect Battery
Remove one nut on top of front dash support brace
Bend brace down and left 1-2 inches
Break top screw loose with 7/32 box open end wrench or socket
Turn screw with socket using finger and thumb
Break bottom screw loose with 7/32 box open end wrench or socket
Turn screw with socket using finger and thumb
Remove Old Part
Install New Part (above in reverse order)

Good times........
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calguy

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Thanks all

Just wanted to say thanks to all who posted about the recir air problem. This site is awesome. Plastic is wonderful for a cup but not for a gear. Again thanks!
:)
 

loveofmustangs

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Thank you!

Last night my 05 vibe starting this ticking crap shortly after turning on my heat after it's been unused for a few months. I quickly determined it stops if you hold the recirculation button. This forum was a HUGE help! :) Thanks all for the input
 

Mike K

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Disconnecting the connector

I just want the cheap and dirty solution. I found the same problem the rest of you had. I have been trying to pull the electrical connector to the motor apart but I do not want to break it.

What is the trick to getting it apart? Does the blue part come out? Or do you pull the blue and black section together? I have tried to find a little catch on it somewhere but no luck.

Tried contorting my body and sticking a small screwdriver inside to release it but still no luck.

Running it with the recirculation off but if you need your defoggers on, they automatically close this vent.

not sure I want to try to take it apart and replace it yet if I can get by with just disconnecting it. I never run in recirc mode anyway.

Thanks.
 

sloej

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removing the wiring harness

First, thank you to everyone that posted here. I was able to stop the ticking from the dash. It is too cold to spend the time replacing the part right now, but I will give it a shot once it warms up.

To stop the ticking, I just unplugged the wiring harness that went into the air inlet actuator.

The harness, as described in the thread, is blue and black and on the upper left of the opening where the glove box was. The clip that holds it in is on the left side (toward the center of the car) of the plug. To undo the clip I actually took a long, flat head screwdriver and reached up from under the dash. I found this much easier then trying to maneuver in the opening where glove box was.
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Emilytrademark

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Thank you!

Just had to write and thank you all for this valuable information. I am a young female and repair shops generally try to take advantage of me, so I am very glad this seems like something I can repair on my own.

I got in my car today only to turn it on and hear the infamous CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK under the dashboard, on the passenger side, just to the left of the passenger airbag. Scared the bejeezus out of me! I thought there was a bomb in my car. Laugh away. :rolleyes: I finally realized that clicking the air circulation button made it stop.

Anyway, I am going to try and just unplug the part and hope that it fixes the issue for now.

Thanks again!
 

JanMM

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Indy
Our 2004 Vibe started clicking yesterday. Very puzzling at first but didn't take us long to figure out that pressing RECIRC. would shut it up. Fix still puzzling, though, until finding this thread. Going to try unplugging the power this weekend.
 

JanMM

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Indy
Our 2004 Vibe started clicking yesterday. Very puzzling at first but didn't take us long to figure out that pressing RECIRC. would shut it up. Fix still puzzling, though, until finding this thread. Going to try unplugging the power this weekend.
Done and clicking gone. Hardly ever used recirculate anyway.
 

Do_it_Myself

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05 Vibe Same clicking issue......

All thanks for the info. I heard the noise and figured it was something with the heating and cooling, from having experienced that sound before in another vehicle with rear heat/cooling controls. However it took me about 15-20 minutes into driving turning every knob and button to finally catch on the recirc button and we all know it doesn't stay on in defrost mode, which I kind of need right now since there is a lot of condensation in the am's this time of the year. You all pretty much summed it up for me on what the cause is and how to fix. Now I am not too worried and will probably deal with it for a little while before I get the chance to fix it.

Great job all!
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JasonP79

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Pontiac Vibe dash clicking noise

I was able to modify a 1/4" allen wrench with my Dremel using a metal cut off wheel and a metal grinding bit to make a perfect sized right angle tool for the 5.5 mm socket. Was able to complete the job in a half hour after coming up with this idea! You still need to be a yoga master and have some patience but this made the job VERY EASY! Hope this helps fellow Vibers!
 

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jgg765@gmail.com

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Repeated issue Pontiac Vibe Air Flap Actuator

Hi,
I have repalced my Pontiac Vibe Air Flap Actuator three times!!!
I put a new one in the problem goes away for a few months and then bang it comes back!!!
I am going to be heart broken if I have to sell the car because of this problem.
1) What is causing it.
2) What parts are connected.
 

Sal Collaziano

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Hi,
I have repalced my Pontiac Vibe Air Flap Actuator three times!!!
I put a new one in the problem goes away for a few months and then bang it comes back!!!
I am going to be heart broken if I have to sell the car because of this problem.
1) What is causing it.
2) What parts are connected.
I know it's been a LONG time - but what ever happened with this?
 
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