02 grand am se 3.4L wont start after sitting

N

nikolishin

New member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
In the morning my car starts up fine everytime. When I drive a mile home from work the car wont start after sitting for so long. The engine cranks, the feul pump ignites. The security light does not come on. The car does start after waiting for 30minutes-3hours. I took the car in for a scan and got the p0131 code, replaced the o2 sensor (fixed the code that came up) knowing that wouldnt fix my problem. I now have no codes when scanned. Randomly the service vehicle soon light comes on along with abs.

Searching google I found potential issues, but no one really had the same issue as me. Ignition Control Module and the Ignition Switch is known for similar issues. Has anyone ever had this problem with there car? It seems like it could be passlock but the security light doesn't come on. Any ideas? thanks

Also the hazard light sound is going crazy, but works normal. The sound just ticks away and goes away sometimes. The sound is coming from where the hazard light button is when pushed in half way it stops, the issue has to be the relay or the hazard button. Anyone have that issue?
 
Last edited:
sounds like a bad ignition switch and the dash hazard relay
 
There was a recall on the hazard relay. Part of the problem was the multi-function switch but, as is typical, GM didn't cover that in the recall.. The relay is an easy thing to replace. Just pop off the center instrument panel bezel, pry off the ring around the key lock cylinder first though, and you'll find it in the top.

I've attached the electrical for the 3.4 V6 as well as the procedure to change the multi-function switch.
When you follow the schematics, it shows you which circuits are energized or hot when the key is placed in Run and Start. You'll need a multimeter set to DC volts (20 volt scale) to help track down which circuit has failed and if it's caused by the ignition switch.
You already hear the fuel pump cut in so that circuit should be good. When you have the no start condition (cranks OK & fuel pump runs but not firing), pull your fuel pump relay to prevent excess fuel being pumped in with several start attempts. Then either pull the ignition module fuse or disconnect the harness at the module and check for voltage with the key in RUN and in START. Voltage should be the same as the battery voltage 12.3 V or greater. Voltage less than 10 would point to a high resistance in the ignition switch contacts.

Hopefully this helps you.
 
Guy I bought it from, let me swap the Ignition Control Module with another one he had at his shop. So far the car seems to be starting fine now. If the problem persists again I will revert back to this forum. Thank You
 
grand am's suck. Problem still exist, more than likely the ignition switch. Cheers to a bs $500 fix
 
the switch is about $120 for the part, how do you get $500?
______________________________
 
I'm no expert, but I believe the switch actually has to be installed gently and everything needs to be properly aligned. Not that I don't have the basic knowledge to install something. But i'm not trying to walk out of the fix spending more money on new electrical work or something.

Meaning put an expert at task, maybe I over exaggerated at $500 probably more like $300+
 
nikolishin said:
I'm no expert, but I believe the switch actually has to be installed gently and everything needs to be properly aligned. Not that I don't have the basic knowledge to install something. But i'm not trying to walk out of the fix spending more money on new electrical work or something.

Meaning put an expert at task, maybe I over exaggerated at $500 probably more like $300+
Click to expand...

When working on electrical equipment the first rule is de-energize the circuit, i.e. disconnect the battery negative connection. I just replaced my switch and it was no big deal. Just followed the procedure in my repair manual.
One necessary tool is a magnetic pick-up tool to catch the screws:o, and to reinstall them, from the instrument cluster.

nikolishin said:
Think it's possible a bad key could be the culprit?
Click to expand...

Does your security light come on and go out with all the other lights when you put the key in Run? If it comes on and goes off with the rest, chances are it isn't the key. If it comes on while cranking and then flashes when you go from Start to Run, then it would be your key or lock cylinder.

If the key seems really loose or sloppy in the lock cylinder, then it could be a problem but more for the body control module controlled equipment which includes the security.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top