2001 Sunfire Tensioner?

Texasbaby144

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I recently purchased a 2001 Sunfire 2.2 5 SPEED manual transmission. I noticed a rattling from the engine and an occasional squeal. During a rainstorm a few days ago, while driving, I lost power steering and the car overheated to the max. Upon inspection I noticed the serpentine belt had slipped off. I proceeded to instal and when I cranked the engine it slipped right back off. I did also notice a lower bolt on the A.C. compressor that needs to be tightened, which I will do today. Would the tensioner be the culprit? Any suggestions would be appreciated I will be attempting this myself on a very tight budget. Thanks I advance and greetings from Texas yall!!
 
please be aware any first time users have to be approved so repeating your posts doesnt work. I believe you resolved this issue and now have a no start issue perhaps caused by the way you are trying to start the car with a jumper wire.
 
If the bolt backed off and interfered with the belt causing the belt to slid off the tensioner has nothing to do with this.

The problem should be resolved by tightening the loose bolt.

To be on the safe side look at the belt and pulleys and make sure the belt is aligned with all the pulleys.
 
please be aware any first time users have to be approved so repeating your posts doesnt work. I believe you resolved this issue and now have a no start issue perhaps caused by the way you are trying to start the car with a jumper wire.
Thank you for clarifying, I thought I had done something wrong :) I don't even know where to start as far as the Jumper wire goes... Starter Relay maybe?
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If the bolt backed off and interfered with the belt causing the belt to slid off the tensioner has nothing to do with this.

The problem should be resolved by tightening the loose bolt.
To be on the safe side look at the belt and pulleys and make sure the belt is aligned with all the pulleys.

After inspection they do seem To be aligned and centered. I also had battery charged to 12.5 but still just crank and no start. I was told that it must be A NEW battery since the A.C. fix... How true is that?
 
Well I think your car is suffering from the type of work that is being done to it.

I also think the chain of events are getting confused here.

In one of your post you mention a new key and or ignition switch that was installed.

This new key needs to be programmed to work with your car, the jumper wire that has been used in the past needs to be eliminated and the problem repaired properly.

Modern cars are hard to repair under normal circumstances, if you add to the mix jumper wires and non programmed keys you have little chance to get your vehicle repaired.

To make things even more difficult trying to help diagnose these problems online without seeing and inspecting this car just makes it impossible.

If you add money problems to the mix and tie our hands where anything we could suggest is too expensive we do not stand a chance to help you.


Anytime any modern vehicle fails to start for any reason this needs to be addressed by diagnosing the problem.

To diagnose the problem you will need a factory service manual, or equivalent
you will need access to factory TSBs ( technical service bulletins )

You will need access to diagnostic equipment like a scan tool with live data capabilities, a DVOM ( digital volt ohm meter ) Noid light kit, Computer safe test light, fuel pressure test gauge, compression gauge and other diagnostic tools plus basic hand tools.


Some of these tools can be picked up as a loaner through many parts stores yet it will require purchasing the tool and returning it for a refund when your done with it. this can be expensive taking away funds from your budget while you have the tool or tools out.

I suggest we start with stuff you can check with no money out of pocket.

First sign up to AutoZone's website it is free. while logged on you will see
a tab labeled repair help put your mouse over that tab and a drop down menu appears the first section on the list is vehicle repair guides.

The repair guides have many sections from just parts replacement procedures to wiring diagrams.

There is some diagnostic information in this section as well.

I cannot help you get back to where you have to use a jumper wire to start the car.

I can only help guide you to test that need to be done to determine what is wrong with the car.

Your car needs a good battery, clean good connections to the battery cable ends and any jump block locations.

all the fuses in the car should be checked with a DVOM or a computer safe test light testing to ensure power goes in and out of the fuse when it is supposed to.

Some fuses are powered with the key on engine off or on but do not have power while cranking. some may have power while cranking.others may not have power until the lights are turned on.

If your key has not been programmed let us know and I will try and find the procedures to program it if this is possible without taking it to the dealer.

To sum it up we need to find out what is causing your car not to run, a lack of spark a lack of fuel, a lack of compression. or choked off air supply.

Once we know for sure what is missing we can get into the more involved testing to pin point the problem

This is where is can get expensive and time consuming and will require more information than you can get for free at AutoZone.

Hopefully you will find something easy and cheap to fix that may get your car on the road before it gets to this point.
 
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