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Have you noticed any loss of coolant?
When you changed the thermostat did you bleed the cooling system?
There are at two motors one for recirculation and one for blend have you verified they are actually moving the doors?
When you changed the thermostat did you bleed the cooling system?
There are at two motors one for recirculation and one for blend have you verified they are actually moving the doors?
EaOutlaw
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To facilitate a quick and accurate diagnosis, please provide more information.
What was the reason for working on the car in the first place?
Was the original symptom no heat inside the passenger compartment?
Do you get air flow to the windshield when in defrost mode?
Do you get air flow to the dash vents when those are selected?
Do you get air flow to the floor when the floor is selected?
As melsg5 asked have you purged the cooling system of air using the air bleed?
has the cooling system been properly pressure tested?
Did you use GM AC Delco parts for the thermostat and other parts you replaced?
Also provide detailed information about what engine and transmission you have in your GP if you are unsure provide the VIN (Vehicle Identification number)
The more information that you provide when asking for help, the faster and easier we can help.
What was the reason for working on the car in the first place?
Was the original symptom no heat inside the passenger compartment?
Do you get air flow to the windshield when in defrost mode?
Do you get air flow to the dash vents when those are selected?
Do you get air flow to the floor when the floor is selected?
As melsg5 asked have you purged the cooling system of air using the air bleed?
has the cooling system been properly pressure tested?
Did you use GM AC Delco parts for the thermostat and other parts you replaced?
Also provide detailed information about what engine and transmission you have in your GP if you are unsure provide the VIN (Vehicle Identification number)
The more information that you provide when asking for help, the faster and easier we can help.
Thank you for getting back, No I didn't use GM parts. Motor is 3800. Transmission? When I first bought the car I was told it over heated and the lady I bought it from was told she needed new engine(250+ Miles) The blower motor wasn't working, I replaced it and the resistor. Now it is starting to get cold I noticed no heat. Was told today that both heater core hoses can be hot and still have bad heater core. How true is that?
______________________________
EaOutlaw
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please re read my post and answer all the questions. the questions I asked are important to know if you want help.
if you are unsure about the questions let us know?
a heater core when it goes bad it will normally leak I have never seen one clog up preventing heat. the cooling system would have to be severely contaminated to clog a heater core enough to not heat the car at all.
when the car is running and the engine heats up both heater hoses will heat up even if you have them both pinched off at the firewall.
Again it sounds like air in the system from a improper coolant fill procedure.
If the car over heated it could have cracked a cylinder head and or blown a head gasket
if you live where it is cold the damage may not be bad enough to effect the drive ability yet the loss of coolant or air in the system will cause no heat.
this is why it is important to answer the questions asked by others and myself
if you are unsure about the questions let us know?
a heater core when it goes bad it will normally leak I have never seen one clog up preventing heat. the cooling system would have to be severely contaminated to clog a heater core enough to not heat the car at all.
when the car is running and the engine heats up both heater hoses will heat up even if you have them both pinched off at the firewall.
Again it sounds like air in the system from a improper coolant fill procedure.
If the car over heated it could have cracked a cylinder head and or blown a head gasket
if you live where it is cold the damage may not be bad enough to effect the drive ability yet the loss of coolant or air in the system will cause no heat.
this is why it is important to answer the questions asked by others and myself
EaOutlaw
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That is great news that you have heat. thanks for getting back to us.
I am curious did you see large chunk of debris or other nasty contaminants come out of the Heater core?
Or was it by flushing the heater core and refilling the cooling system and purging the air that really cured your heater problem?
If you did have lots of debris and rust and or corrosion in the cooling system and you just flushed it with tap water, also filling it with a antifreeze-coolant mixture blended with tap water, you will have this problem again.
When you can if this is the case you may want to consider one day draining the system again, filling it up with distilled water and a heavy duty cooling system cleaner like Permatex Heavy Duty cleaner. following the instructions on the bottle.
First you have to make sure this cleaner is compatible with your cooling system. Permatex makes other products that may be a better match for your car so do your home work.
The main part I cannot stress enough your car has many aluminum parts, which requires a special coolant and the use of distilled water only.
When flushing with this type of cleaner I am pretty sure they mention removing the thermostat, but read the instructions to know for sure.
I am writing all of this not just for your benefit, it is for anyone that reads this and thinks it is a good idea to flush and or fill a cooling system of a modern car with tap water or incompatible coolant.
It is OK to do a power flush with tap water with the T-stat removed but once it is flushed I like to completely drain it, then using a shop vac in reverse blowing any and all tap water out of the system.
I also would fill it with distilled water then drain it a few times to insure any and all traces of the tap water is removed from the cooling system.
before topping it off with the correct coolant distilled water mixture. checking the protection level to insure your engine and cooling system is protected for the temperatures your vehicle will encounter.
here is a link for a tester that I am writing about, http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
Again if you know all of this that is great I am writing this for others that do not know and should.
Much of what I mentioned wouldn't be required for a cooling system that has been properly maintained and filled with the correct coolant mixture.
All of this is covered in a factory service manual and most likely Technical service bulletins.
I am curious did you see large chunk of debris or other nasty contaminants come out of the Heater core?
Or was it by flushing the heater core and refilling the cooling system and purging the air that really cured your heater problem?
If you did have lots of debris and rust and or corrosion in the cooling system and you just flushed it with tap water, also filling it with a antifreeze-coolant mixture blended with tap water, you will have this problem again.
When you can if this is the case you may want to consider one day draining the system again, filling it up with distilled water and a heavy duty cooling system cleaner like Permatex Heavy Duty cleaner. following the instructions on the bottle.
First you have to make sure this cleaner is compatible with your cooling system. Permatex makes other products that may be a better match for your car so do your home work.
The main part I cannot stress enough your car has many aluminum parts, which requires a special coolant and the use of distilled water only.
When flushing with this type of cleaner I am pretty sure they mention removing the thermostat, but read the instructions to know for sure.
I am writing all of this not just for your benefit, it is for anyone that reads this and thinks it is a good idea to flush and or fill a cooling system of a modern car with tap water or incompatible coolant.
It is OK to do a power flush with tap water with the T-stat removed but once it is flushed I like to completely drain it, then using a shop vac in reverse blowing any and all tap water out of the system.
I also would fill it with distilled water then drain it a few times to insure any and all traces of the tap water is removed from the cooling system.
before topping it off with the correct coolant distilled water mixture. checking the protection level to insure your engine and cooling system is protected for the temperatures your vehicle will encounter.
here is a link for a tester that I am writing about, http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
Again if you know all of this that is great I am writing this for others that do not know and should.
Much of what I mentioned wouldn't be required for a cooling system that has been properly maintained and filled with the correct coolant mixture.
All of this is covered in a factory service manual and most likely Technical service bulletins.
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