3.1L manual trans:

[DrEntropy]

How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch? There's no bleed nipple on the slave cylinder!

May I please have about ten minutes with the engineer who thought this a good design?!?

And I'll have a detailed report about the engine R&R and all the "new" stuff for this '91.

 

[92 Sunbird LE]

From the Z24 forums, ( late 80's - mid 90's JBody ) a members response

Using the GM service manual instructions............

"I installed a 91 5 spd tranny on my 89, and here's how I bleed it: First put the slave cylinder on the hydraulic line, second take the cap of the clutch master cylinder resevoir, and the rubber seal that sits inside of it, then start pumping the crap out of the slave cylinder, you should see the air bubbles come out in the resevoir. (make sure you have fluid in it first!)

Pump the rod in out of the slave cylinder a bunch of times! Then when you think you've pumped it enough, or there is no more air coming out hold the rod in the slave cylinder as far as it will go, hold it there install your rubber seal that sits inside your clutch master cylinder, then your cap, and your done! Worked great for me!"

Looks like you have to disconnect the slave cylinder from the trans and do it from up top so you can see the clutch master cylinder. ( air bubbles)

Hope this helps.........Doug in P.R.

 

[DrEntropy]

Thanks, Doug!

I've found a small "weep" at the master cylinder end of the hydraulic line, the fitting shows some rust. It is likely the reverse when the clutch pedal is releases and the M/C would haul in a bit of air. I will replace all with a Wagner assembly, supposedly pre-filled.

Worked on MANY hydraulic systems in my time, never saw an automotive system you couldn't purge of air (in situ) before.

 

[DrEntropy]

UPDATE: The Wagner assembly was delivered Thursday, no time until today to try the install. Slave came away with no issue (had been off when I did the engine swap), the M/C was problematic. Upper (inner) nut was off the bulkhead stud with a 'snap' and no prob. The lower (outer) one wouldn't budge. Applied plenty of "Weasel Piss" to it, waited some time, a 24" Snap-On breaker bar with a six-point socket and still "no joy." I took the windy to it (half-inch drive air impact) and it rattled, then spun... breaking the stud just flush with the firewall. *^%$!!!

Spent some quality time with a Dremel tool and little cut-off disks under the dash, hollowing out that stud from inside the cab. Once the edge of the stud was exposed, a few blows with a long brass drift broke the stud from the hole in the pedal box. Replaced it with a metric Allen head cap screw of same diameter and cranked all down with nuts at the front. In essence turned a one hour job into a four hour trial... for nothing. Still will NOT go into reverse without gnashing the cogs. Linkage and cables are all snug, no slop at either end of both cables.

Now I'm flummoxed. And missing a Saturday morning! ;-)

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[melsg5]

if you put it into 1st gear first and then reverse do you still get grinding?