79 TA 400 Oil Pressure

[Jolo]

I goofed. Here is what happened.

I disconnected the tach wire to the distributor to check its cranking voltage (the voltage at the battery wire to the distributor previously checked out fine). The voltmeter attached to the tach wire showed zero voltage with the key in the “on” position and when I moved the key to start, the car did not hesitate and started immediately.

I did have the dash pod out to replace the speedometer. Because the tach wire is so short, I added extensions to each of the terminal ends on the “L” shaped connector (that cannot be incorrectly attached to the gauge cluster). However, if not careful, my extensions can be, and were crossed. I ditched my extensions and felt around blindly for a minute or so until I got the “L” connecter attached to the gauge. Car starts right up and runs well. Problem created by me, solved.

Thanks for all the patient support. I really do appreciate it. I can’t wait to finally get it on the road tomorrow.

thank you all again. Have a great Independence Day Weekend.


Kind regards,
Joe

 

[melsg5]

Great to hear you got it fixed.

 

[Jolo]

Great to hear you got it fixed.

Thanks for your help, it got me thinking in the right direction. When two new ignition control modules and a new distributor with new coils fail, and I have adequate voltage from the battery to the distributor, it had to be the tach wire which also requires adequate voltage. I thought I had previously checked it when I tested the battery connector voltage, but apparently I had not. Lesson to self; don’t multitask on this car; tackle one job at a time.