bmwbykrydr
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I just got done swapping a 3.4L engine from a donor '98 Montana into my own '98 Montana. The donor van ran and shut off fine before the swap, as did mine, before it threw a rod. Today was the first crank and it started on the first try, drove it around the block twice and returned home.
When I went to put it in park the PARK light wouldn't come on and it wouldn't go into PARK. With the engine still running I put the emergency brake on, went under the hood and pushed the shifter rod out by hand and heard it click into park. I think the shifter just needs to be reseated on the shift post or something like that. Not too worried about that part.
So now the van is in PARK. I then turned the key off, removed the key from the ignition, but the engine stayed on. A couple dash lights remain on, though dim, air bag, brake, one other (bad ground somewhere?). If I turn the ignition back and forth from run to off I can hear the engine change rpm slightly each time, so something is changing electronically, but I don't know what. I had to pull the main ignition relay to get it to stop.
I still need to add a half quart of ATF and I need to bleed the brakes again, think I still have some air in the line as the pedal goes really deep.
I read the a GM alternator can self excite without a diode. There is a diode in the fuse block so I swapped it with the one from the donor with no luck. When I swapped engines I didn't disconnect any of the engine wiring from the engine. So, I swapped engines and wiring harness. Mine had been damaged a couple years ago and always had a gremlin that I was never able to track down.
Any idea what would keep the engine from turning off? Does anyone have a full wiring schematic that I can see to get an idea of what connection needs to open to get it off?
Don
When I went to put it in park the PARK light wouldn't come on and it wouldn't go into PARK. With the engine still running I put the emergency brake on, went under the hood and pushed the shifter rod out by hand and heard it click into park. I think the shifter just needs to be reseated on the shift post or something like that. Not too worried about that part.
So now the van is in PARK. I then turned the key off, removed the key from the ignition, but the engine stayed on. A couple dash lights remain on, though dim, air bag, brake, one other (bad ground somewhere?). If I turn the ignition back and forth from run to off I can hear the engine change rpm slightly each time, so something is changing electronically, but I don't know what. I had to pull the main ignition relay to get it to stop.
I still need to add a half quart of ATF and I need to bleed the brakes again, think I still have some air in the line as the pedal goes really deep.
I read the a GM alternator can self excite without a diode. There is a diode in the fuse block so I swapped it with the one from the donor with no luck. When I swapped engines I didn't disconnect any of the engine wiring from the engine. So, I swapped engines and wiring harness. Mine had been damaged a couple years ago and always had a gremlin that I was never able to track down.
Any idea what would keep the engine from turning off? Does anyone have a full wiring schematic that I can see to get an idea of what connection needs to open to get it off?
Don
