ATTN 1999, or so, Montana owners

P

Pontiachead

New member
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
First off hello and a quick run down of what I have going. I purchased a 99 Montana with 105k miles in great condition(70 year old lady 1 owner). I want to let known what I have done to get this van nearly 100% mechanically right, and possibly receive a little help as well. I opened up with addressing the erratic fuel guage by dropping the tank and replacing the pump/sending unit with the unit from 1A Auto....Hell of a job and now that prob is fixed. Then I replaced a rusty Window regulator on the drivers side to restore speed on my window...but it still gets slow towards the top due to a bind I believe. In addition, I had probs with my rear brake/running lights going out...found burned out modules and replaced with new prob solved(the connection was melted).

A week ago it was suspension time to address the clunk I hear when backing up slowly and hitting bumps at a low speed...outer tie rods shot. Replaced them and realized inners were shot...replaced them, Note: You must use KD 3312 tool for an oem 2 in 1 won't work on ours...I found out the hard way. Our inner tie rod socket is a complex one requiring an extra special tool. Anyways, all new inner/outer tie rods and the front end is tight and feels great, KYB GR-2's and rear struts/shocks on the way(front 2 kyb's $98 shipped off ebay). Now, it appears the intake gasket has been replaced and upgraded along the way...so I still run dexcool(flushed and installed new water pump, ater seeing slight leak..new water pump fixed the prob) and my cooling system has been perfect. Had wipers not parking...Lubed the wiper mechansim under dash and cleaned...prob solved. Also pay attention to your sway bar bushings...had a lil popping their...inside spacer piece between the middle bushings was corroded and weak(new Moogs installed cheap off Ebay$25). And no I'm not an Ebay rep lol...I shop very hard for the best deals tho.

So...my only issue now is an ABS light...I tried to scan it with my Snap On scanner but it says "brake module not responding"...I had Autozone scan it and it said the same thing, different cheaper scanner. Would this be a failed module? Or the notorious wheel bearing failure? I've done a ton of research on this van because it is my family vehicle that transports my 2 month old boy and wife...my goal is to make it like new as much as possible. If any of you need any help let me know I've done alot on this vehicle. I've always been a die hard Pontiac guy as my first car was a 1996 redbird, second was 1999 blackbird...I typed all of this because I spent so much time looking and searching for these answers and maybe I can save someone alot of time...Thanks in advance and hope to hear some ideas...~Mike
 
Mike Thanks alot for the info I am sure it will help montana owners out there we are always looking for some info. As far as the abs , what we see alot of is bad/damaged wiring around the sensor itself ,right around the lower control arm I think it gets hit from alot of road debris/salt and corrodes there . Hope this is some help keep us posted. And by the way how is your headlight assembles , foggy ?
 
You know surprisingly enough they aren't real foggy, however, I have moisture in one. I sealed it(rtv) after drying it out with a hair dryer and it came back within a day. Don't get me wrong, they aren't the clearest in the world...but not too bad. I put some silverstars in it and that really made a huge difference. I've decided to just get some new ones on down the road from 1a auto...about $100 for a set with sidelamps...thanks for the abs info. It only comes on after driving a little while and accelerating. At night when it comes up there is a power surge(all the lights blink). I cleaned the connector when I was installing the new brakemotive slotted rotors and ceramic pads, and the wires seem ok but I need to check them closer...thanks again...~Mike
 
I had the abs/traction light come on, it was the front wheel bearing.
______________________________
 
Spatel did it come on after you were driving down the road or was it always on? Did you have it scanned, if so did the scanner hook up correctly to the brake control module? I'm prepared to change the front two bearings but I'm worried it is the module due to the scanners not hooking into it. I was set on the front bearings until this module connection prob popped up...
 
it was always on, as soon as I turn the van on. I had it scanned, and it did show as the front right bearing, thats what my mechanic told me. and it was fixed and the light didnt come on after.
 
before you go crazy and change the bearings, grab a multi meter and test the wiring at the plug for resistance. It shouldn't be open. Also test the sensors, they also shouldn't be open. Haven't had it happen on a Montana, but on my Alero I have two bad breaks in my abs wiring up front from road grime and the framework rubbing through the wires.

Also, for your headlights, if you intend to upgrade I highly recommend European e-code headlamps from an Opel/vauxhall Sintra. The silverstar 9004 bulbs don't really produce any more light than regular ones, they just change the hue and fool the eye into thinking its brighter. They also burn out a lot quicker. The Euro lamps use an h4 bulb which is many many times better.

The 9004 puts out 1200/700 lumens high/low, whereas a good Osram +50 h4 bulb 70/65 watt puts out 2000/1350 lumens, and the Sintra lamp is very well designed, you really have no comparison once swapped.

Use this reference, the first and third topics are good info. Blue filtered bulbs are not a good use of money..
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html
 
Thanks Chance that is great info and after viewing that I'll go that route. My concerns have kind of shifted due to the fact I have an oil pan gasket leak. I torqued down the bolts I could get to underneath to slow it down a bit possibly. I've also seen some shaking when I shift from 1st to 2nd in my driver side front wheel...I suspect the cv axle or joint. I've done a lot of research but can't seem to pinpoint what this is. After putting my new struts and tie rods in it seems more pronounced. When I had my struts off I could move the bearing/cv unit in different directions and there was some clunking...not sure if that is normal or not? Anyways, once I figure out the cv, or even bearing problem...and oil pan I'll do the new lights. Thanks for your input it is greatly appreciated...~Mike
______________________________
 
Pontiachead said:
Thanks Chance that is great info and after viewing that I'll go that route. My concerns have kind of shifted due to the fact I have an oil pan gasket leak. I torqued down the bolts I could get to underneath to slow it down a bit possibly. I've also seen some shaking when I shift from 1st to 2nd in my driver side front wheel...I suspect the cv axle or joint. I've done a lot of research but can't seem to pinpoint what this is. After putting my new struts and tie rods in it seems more pronounced. When I had my struts off I could move the bearing/cv unit in different directions and there was some clunking...not sure if that is normal or not? Anyways, once I figure out the cv, or even bearing problem...and oil pan I'll do the new lights. Thanks for your input it is greatly appreciated...~Mike
Click to expand...

No worries. On the oil pan if you don't use a torque wrench you are likely going to make the leak worse. They are typically in the range from 7-20ftlbs depending on gasket type, but most are rubber/cork gaskets, and don't depend on tightness to seal so much as even tightness and silicon. So it they are around 15ft lbs, yes you could get a good turn or so out of them with a wrench but more often than not this splits the gasket or pushes it inward. I myself have ruined a gasket or two, new ones even, by overtightening. Torque wrench are wonderful for gaskets I feel.

If it really is a bad leak its best to bite the bullet and do it right. Skip on the cork replacement gasket and get a quality rubber covered metal gasket.

Not sure on your wheel either. Comes to mind it could be a ball joint, something in the steering, a hub. i don't think its a CV axle as this doesn't have a lot to do with locating the wheel. Mainly, you have your hub, the wheel connects to this, and you have an outer race, ball bearings, and inner race. This is then bolted to the Knuckle. That is attached to the lower control arm by a ball joint, and to the chassis via the shock, which is attatched to the strut tower by a shock mount (rubber, hopefully replaced w/suspension), and from there you have the lower control arm bushings. As well, the inner tie rod, outter tie rod, and steering box are the only other pieces involved in locating the wheel... So the issue has to be in there.

When cv's go bad they typically will click when you are turning and sometimes even pop loudly and make the steering vibrate. They do move in and out so as to allow the ability to turn, but should only have axial play (towards and away from the engine) not much rotational play (back and fourth) but when turning the wheel you will have some play in the tranny between fwd and reverse engagement if you are turning the front wheel with the car in the air.

Wow that's long winded. I'd check ball joints, shock mount, lower control arm bushings, hub, and steering components to start with. Could be something else but there's the good starting points.
 
"I'd check ball joints, shock mount, lower control arm bushings, hub, and steering components to start with. Could be something else but there's the good starting points"

Thats a pretty nice breakdown there of the whole system...many people searching will get a lot of help from that. When I had my tires put on a few weeks back they said the ball joints were fine. Lower control arm bushings look fine, although I see a small amount of cracking in the corners...just a few little cracks about an 1/10th of an inch where there is a lot of tension. The hub I'm not sure about yet and the tie rods are all new. I just replaced struts with the KYB's and used the existing strut mount...no noticeable damage to them. I feel good about my suspension system with the exception of the hub/cv area...I simply have never worked on these so I don't know what to look for. There def isn't any clicking going on, I had a clunk but the new sway bar links fixed that. When the gears shift while accelerating if does the tire shimmy...sometimes. Thats what makes this even harder. I just got off work and I'm going to take the wheel off and take a peek at some of the things you mentioned. I'm having my van aligned tomorrow and I'm going to have them inspect some stuff. I just wish I knew exactly what to tell them to check?? I'm thinking cv/hub as of now...cause last time they said the ball joints were fine...although I still think they could be the prob. Really appreciate the help...oh and I'm really hoping I didn't make the oil pan leak worse now. Although I didn't torque them down too much more. After I figure out and complete my suspension I'll study up on the oil pan gasket and attack that. I've made this my hobby...the Montana does plenty to fuel it..but I love the ride, look, and performance of it and I paid cash for it...so I'm going "all in" on it since it's my families primary transportation. I'll just keep fixing stuff until I have it as new as possible...Thanks again...
 
chance91 said:
before you go crazy and change the bearings, grab a multi meter and test the wiring at the plug for resistance. It shouldn't be open. Also test the sensors, they also shouldn't be open. Haven't had it happen on a Montana, but on my Alero I have two bad breaks in my abs wiring up front from road grime and the framework rubbing through the wires.

Also, for your headlights, if you intend to upgrade I highly recommend European e-code headlamps from an Opel/vauxhall Sintra. The silverstar 9004 bulbs don't really produce any more light than regular ones, they just change the hue and fool the eye into thinking its brighter. They also burn out a lot quicker. The Euro lamps use an h4 bulb which is many many times better.

The 9004 puts out 1200/700 lumens high/low, whereas a good Osram +50 h4 bulb 70/65 watt puts out 2000/1350 lumens, and the Sintra lamp is very well designed, you really have no comparison once swapped.

Use this reference, the first and third topics are good info. Blue filtered bulbs are not a good use of money..
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html
Click to expand...

Any tips on how to get some of those headlights? I really need more light on the road. Thanks
______________________________
 
musselman said:
Any tips on how to get some of those headlights? I really need more light on the road. Thanks
Click to expand...

A while back I was having the same problem with my lights(Not enough light) and so I bought and installed silver star ultras lamps and it produced more light .however I thought I could do better if I replaced the headlights lens ,which was the problem the whole time cause it was sun faded and foggy on the inside. To my surprise I found after market headlight assemblies cheap and decided to give them a try and could not be happier. here is a link for them. Good luck and keep us posted.

http://www.amazon.com/1999-2005-Pon...M37E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328943817&sr=8-1

~$45 plus free shipping not bad for a pair
 
Wow Steelcity that is a good find...you can't beat the price and quality looks just fine. I found what I'm going with, did the silverstars in these kick out awesome lighting?
 
Pontiachead said:
Wow Steelcity that is a good find...you can't beat the price and quality looks just fine. I found what I'm going with, did the silverstars in these kick out awesome lighting?
Click to expand...

Yep it puts out great light ,I guess this is the most output anyone could get from theses vans unless you modify and do hid's .
______________________________
 
Can't say id recommend the silverstars but its up to you. They are pure marketing hype and even on the box it says the loight output claims are based on replacement of worn out bulbs.

You can tell they are no better based on the coating on the bulv. This is a filter, which removes light from the output to make it appear more white. It has a whiter hue which the eye and brain percieve as brighter but indeed its not the case.

Its much the same as the bluer lights. Try reading to blue light, its the worst choice you have availiable to your eyes for focusing.

Aftermarket lights may be a good option. The quality is simply spotty at best. There are tons of makers and some are decent and some are horrid. Bottom line the 9004 bulb is the worst automotive bulb availiable and a headlamp designed to use it can only do so much with total shit light output to start. HID swap bulbs will give you basically the most terrible light you'll be able to create.

The only option I haven't tested is swapping 9007 bulbs. They are very similar to 9004 but with better wattage and output.

The difference is two wires, which need to be swapped on the oem wiring harness. After this, the bulb base needs to be modified to fit the oem headlight. Its not terribly hard to do. Never tried it on a gm van though.

Really the 9004 headlights in the US are the worst and most complained about light availiable and often the most difficult to modify and improve. Perfectly working lamps with the best bulbs and upgraded harnesses still get blown away by wimpy oem 9006\5 setups.

I can assure you there are very few legitimate ways of improving output, most gimicks and hype products are a waste of money.

Ayway, I have a number of years as a mechanic and doing a lot of untraditional modifications, from turbocharging and tunning ecus, to full hid retrofits and engine building, various brake and suspension conversions... all kinds of stuff. Headlights are a really common complaint and often it takes big money to get quality light from the setups that suck from the getgo.

I did get opel sintra lights on my van with a 10ga wiring relayed setup, and osram offroad 65\75 bulbs. Low beams are decent but imo still subpar, but the highbeams are outstanding. They are as nice as my 09 corollas highbeams with a great central aim down the road. The setup cost to much I feel and I would have done a hid conversion in retrospect for barely 100 more. But if you can do opel lights for under 250 its worth it.

\Diatribe end
 
P.s. how did the suspension issue work out? I wanted to mention strut mounts can fool you, they will look fine but they show cracks when under load. Its too hard to really determine on the car, when I take then off to do struts I use a pry bar and move the center bushing around while holding the mount to see if it has any seperation or the likes.

Gl either way as always
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top