Cooling fan not working.

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Jeremy_steven10

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The cooling fan stopped working today, turned off car, restarted and works for 10 seconds, then can hear a click and stops. Checked big fuse, by switching around with others and nothing. Checked 30 amp fuse and looks good. Unplugged wire to fan and blew it out, and nothing. 1999 sunfire GT 2.4L
 
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Ok. Pulled 30 amp fuse out, and plugged back in, and spark, the fan started. Shut engine off and started right away, and no fan. Hmm change 30 amp fuse?
 
does the fan work properly with the A/C?
 
Turned a/c on and nothing
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did you look at the fan relay in the engine compartment fuse box. See if another relay has the same number and temporarily switch it and see if the fan comes on when the ac is on. I assume your AC system normally does work?
 
Yes switched big relay fuses around, replaced 30 amp fuse, turned a/c on presto, it worked. But engine still overheats and no fan, here and there. Bought coolant and thermostat, thinking of buying engine temperature sensor too.
 
if you can, before you open up your cooling system and replace parts, pressure test the cooling system including the pressure cap.

If you have a leak find out before you waste money on coolant and other parts.

You can get a pressure tester from Auto Zone or Napa as a loner, pay for the tool and return it when your done for a refund.

a cooling system that is low on coolant and or one that doesn't hold pressure can cause the coolant to boil well before the fan is supposed to come on.

A cooling system that has boiling water or coolant in it will burp out some of the coolant leaving you with a packet of air rendering the coolant temperature sensor and cooling fan useless.
 
what do you mean by no fans here and there? the fans should come on in the 215 to 225 range. You state you switched a relay and then it worked. Did you switch back the relay to see if that caused it to stop working?
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Switched big relay with abs relay, and fan wasn't working, so checked coolant, was low, so may be a leak in cooling system. Topped up and runs cooler now, but not sure for how long. Bringing to dealership tomorrow to get cooling system tested. Also noticed some orange liquid on transaxle. Checked all over for leaks to no avail.
 
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Thanks for all the advice, I got the cooling system tested for $60 at dealership and help pressure for 30 minutes straight they say. Lost fluid because the car is showing its age. The guy there asked me if I'm going to upgrade haha. I was like what? Why? This is my winter beater. Then he tried to sell me his car, I said no thanks. But all and all, I do need a new right front tie rod end. Other than that. Car seems up to par. Besides the wire connector to the inside can blower fan melted. And only works when wiggled just right. Haha
 
Since you mentioned tie rod ends... I replaced both of mine last year. I was surprised how easy it was to replace them, although I did have to borrow a tie rod end removal tool from my local O'Reilly's auto parts (they have free loaner tools). Just count the number of turns when taking the old one off (after loosening the nut that locks the tie rod end) and write it down. inspect the replacement to verify it is the exact same length and use your notes to install the new ones. (Don't forget to lubricate)

Best of luck...
 
Jeremy_steven10 said:
Thanks for all the advice, I got the cooling system tested for $60 at dealership and help pressure for 30 minutes straight they say. Lost fluid because the car is showing its age. The guy there asked me if I'm going to upgrade haha. I was like what? Why? This is my winter beater. Then he tried to sell me his car, I said no thanks. But all and all, I do need a new right front tie rod end. Other than that. Car seems up to par. Besides the wire connector to the inside can blower fan melted. And only works when wiggled just right. Haha
Click to expand...

the coolant that was lost leaked from somewhere, If you drove the vehicle to the repair shop and they tested while you waited or the same day I am not surprised they didn't find a leak.

A cooling system should be tested when it is completely cold when you have a leak that is hard to find.

you may just have a small leak when cold at one of your hoses from a loose clamp or hard dry rotted hose.

Even head gaskets or lower intake gaskets can show good once warmed up.

When you can, borrow a pressure tester from Napa or o'Rileys and test the cooling system again while then engine has not been run that day.

This test could save you from missing a cheap and easy to fix small leak that could turn into a blown head gasket or blown engine.
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