Decisions.......

bikehauler

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2013
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Knoxville, IA
I've had my '01 Montana for a couple years now. It's been great. Hauled a lot of stuff and people, two vacations and no break downs. It's got 173,000 miles on it now and there is just a small spot of rust in front of one of the rear wheels. It could use new headlights (seems like 2 candles), front tires are due for replacement, rear wiper doesn't work, and I've been chasing a clunking sound under the front right side that only goes away when I turn AC/DC up loud. Winter is here now and I have a steep driveway to contend with and I think sometimes a 4wd might be more appropriate.
Wondering if it makes sense to put ll that money into it or get aa Suburban. Will new headlights really help?
Sorry this is so long ....
 
Is the head light housing look nice and clear or does it look frosted. if it's not clear unless you replace the plastic housing it will never be bright, there not much on Rockauto.
As for swapping to get a 4wd as long as you are not expecting to get a good trade in on the van. Can you afford a down payment and monthly payments with the insurance.

And would you rather keep the van another year and invest in snow removal equipment.
 
The headlight housing is frosted, cracked. I have a snow blower. It's just frustrating stopping half way up the hill and getting to clear the drive.
 
Your Pontiac will not give up on you before you give up on it.

I am willing to bet that you could restore this vehicle mechanically and cosmetically for less money than you would loose driving a new car off the lot.

Most headlights could be polished to like new condition with the right products unless they are leaking water into them or spider cracked chipped or too severely yellowed.

Once they are polished up they may need to be realigned after properly inflating the tires and correcting the ride height of the car if the springs have sagged over the years.

The thing to do is, arm yourself with information so you can know what your options are and what restoring this Pontiac would cost.

You mention snow and rust, this is where you need to have the car inspected or inspect it yourself with our guidance to see how bad the undercarriage and body panels are.

I am not sure what your mechanical abilities are or if you have the desire tools and time to work on the Pontiac yourself.

If you have to pay full price at a repair shop restoring any car can get expensive quick.

even a sympathetic mechanical and partial cosmetic restoration could be very costly.

Newer vehicles can run for hundreds of thousands of miles if maintained properly, If your fixes do not include cranking up the radio until you have permanent hearing loss like me . LOL

If you know a honest shop to take it to, spend a little money and have them do a complete inspection of the entire vehicle and have them provide a estimate for anything it may need noting any rust they find.

Get a second quote to have the rusted body parts replaced with factory parts. make sure the estimate is for New factory parts or used factory parts
Stay away from aftermarket parts or patch panels if you can.

The under carriage if it has suffered rusting but nothing that has rusted through or compromised the safety of the vehicle could be cleaned up then coated with Ospho surface prep rust converter or something similar then undercoated.

http://www.amazon.com/Skyco-Ospho-S...&ie=UTF8&qid=1448158517&sr=1-2&keywords=ospho

You have driven this car for a few years you are the one to decide if this car is a good fit for you.

If the driveway or route you drive in the snow gets iced over and causes you a problem I am not sure a suburban will make this any better unless you get a 4x4 and put in lockers so you have true four wheel drive.

As you know when you hit black ice It doesn't matter if you had tank tracks it is still dangerous.

Chances are you will not be able to justify the expenses restoring it if you wanted a like new vehicle when it was done.

So you have to be realistic when making your decision.

I suggested getting a estimate for the needed mechanical and cosmetic work

if you do get the estimate tell the shop how much longer you are trying to keep the vehicle for.

If the vehicle has been poorly maintained and important items from the factory service intervals have been missed or you do not know that all the work needed over the years has been done have them check those items as well.

Just because they come up with a large list of items that need attention which may seem expensive, it could be broken down into manageable bite size pieces that are more easier to swallow financially.

That loud noise may be an inexpensive fix now but if that item fails, it may be much more expensive to fix once it is totally shot.

With this type of work or any type of work if you do not trust the shop 100 percent get a second opinion, if you still do not feel you are getting the truth
we can work with you and pictures you take to make sure what they claim is true. this would require you to get dirty and have some basic tools and equipment.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do. if you need any further advice
there are many friendly knowledgeable people here to help you.
______________________________
 
replace the housing ,, and you running all season tires or do you have a set of snow tires??
 
Currently All Season tires and I've neglected to have them rotated so the front ones are worn down. Know last year it climbed the driveway some better. I wish I could afford both sets of tires.
 
I put together a list of things that I think the van needs. Some of these are minimal and the van is very drivable right now.....a little scary at night in the rain/snow, but.....

1. New tires
2. New headlights
3. Rear wiper
4. annoying clunking noise in the right front (strut mount?)
5. Left lower A-arm bushing
6. Thermostat (reads 160-170 in the winter, puts out heat, though. Low reading?)
7. Brighter bulbs for new headlights
8. New fog lights
9. Tune-Up (plugs, wires, filters)
10. Blower Switch and knob (knob is always breaking)
 
1 have two sets of tires and rims, one dedicated for snow and rainy seasons

2 order new headlight housings and follow the facotry service manual to install them

3 follow the manual to diagnose and repair the problem

4 if you have original struts and mounts, replace them./

5 replace both side bushings and any worn parts have a 4 wheel alignment when all worn parts are replaced.

6 making sure the ride height is correct and new headlights are properly aligned by a professional.

7 HIDs can make a big difference if properly installed and the housings are aligned properly.

9 your on the right track preventive maintenance is key to longevity.

10 check the factory service bulletins to see if a updated part number exist.

11 double check your brakes, rotors, pads, shoes hardware, calipers flexible brake lines
master cylinder entire brake system

12 transmission fluid check to see if it smells burnt of looks bad. service as needed

13 timing chain or belt make sure that these parts do not get overlooked a snapped belt or chain depending on what your vehicle has could render all your work and spent money useless.
______________________________
 
All good advice, thanks! Am I on the right track in thinking that the thermostat is not working? In the summer the reading is around the middle. Today, at 29 degrees, on a 15 mile highway drive, it could only manage 171 degrees. Warm heat for me, but that just seems low.
 
make sure the cooling system doesn't have any leaks and is purged of air properly.
if the thermostat is stuck open it will take a long time to heat up and not really get hot enough to make you comfortable. if you do replace it make sure to use a AC Delco part or Stant, some of these thermostats have a jiggle pin which makes it easier to purge the air.
Go to Stant.com they have some useful information on the technology they have built in to their thermostats.

If your evaporator heater core box is not working properly and or blend door will not close properly from leaves and debris in the box this may effect the comfort in both summer and winter.

To track down this problem you may need to pull the thermostat and test it with a known calibrated temperature probe to insure the thermostat opens and closes at designed temperatures.

The factory manual will have the specifications as to what temperature range thermostats can be safely used in your vehicle.

First make sure the air is purged from the cooling system.
 
there is videos that show how to. There is two purge ports on the engine look on youtube that will help you find them and how to do it
______________________________
 
Back
Top