P
patrick
it is cracked
is it easy to replace a head gasket yourself in a 86 pontiac fiero se?
S
shuman57
Depends how much experience you have. Generally speaking, no it is not an easy job.
I
immattj1
Dude, this is one of those "if you have to ask, you probably can't afford it" questions. (& that, of course, was a metaphor.) I've never been under the hood of a Fiero, but I've never changed ANY head gaskets that I considered easy.
In general (meaning not vehicle specific) everything has to come off the top of the engine. (like EVERYTHING.) that in itsself can get quite yukky. How cluttered is the top of that motor? Not fuel injected, is it? Just more junk to get out of the way. Then you need to pull the intake manifold, which is accessable after clearing the way, then you need to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold (s) (might as well change both of 'em if you are going to be that far into it), & then, of course, the actual head bolts have to come out. (On a big block cast iron engine, them babies are seriously torqued.) If the Fiero has an aluminum block, I'd bet the torque is considerably lower, but if not, you will need a big breaker bar & possibly a cheater bar, & good sockets, because the cheapos may just up & split on you. Going back together, the head bolts need to be torqued in sequence (you will need a Chiltons or Haynes or shop manual for the sequence, & the actual torque value.) meaning you will also have to have a torque wrench that adjusts to the specified torque.
Good luck.
In general (meaning not vehicle specific) everything has to come off the top of the engine. (like EVERYTHING.) that in itsself can get quite yukky. How cluttered is the top of that motor? Not fuel injected, is it? Just more junk to get out of the way. Then you need to pull the intake manifold, which is accessable after clearing the way, then you need to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold (s) (might as well change both of 'em if you are going to be that far into it), & then, of course, the actual head bolts have to come out. (On a big block cast iron engine, them babies are seriously torqued.) If the Fiero has an aluminum block, I'd bet the torque is considerably lower, but if not, you will need a big breaker bar & possibly a cheater bar, & good sockets, because the cheapos may just up & split on you. Going back together, the head bolts need to be torqued in sequence (you will need a Chiltons or Haynes or shop manual for the sequence, & the actual torque value.) meaning you will also have to have a torque wrench that adjusts to the specified torque.
Good luck.
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M
Mr. Badwrench
Is it a 4 cylinder or a V-6 engine? The 4 would be slightly easier but still quite a job to do. There's also the risk of the head being cracked when you get it apart. If you do take the head off, take it to a machine shop to have it checked for cracks. It's worth the money. Fieros are hard to work on because the engine is crammed into a tight space at the rear of the car.
W
wangsbuffet
yeah with no or little experience its gonna be a HUGE, hour costly pain in the arse!!! I'd bring it to a mechanic and he should have it done within a day
Dr. Sievers
New member
As has been stated already it isn't necessarily going to be the easiest thing you've ever done. If you have the six then you may just want to take it to a shop because that little guy will probably be just a tad bit more annoying then the four cylinder. You have to pull a lot off to get to it but fortunately for you the Iron Duke is, albiet a tight pain in the butt, still a more simple engine, and, a great one to learn this stuff on. I agree with the other gentleman that stated that you may want a chilton or haynes repair manual for the job because it will guide you through the process a little easier than we could walk you through. The actual space you have to work with isn't bad at all. these cars can fit an 7.0L LS7 in them and if you have the four you are only looking at one bank of 2.5L or 151cid. so you really do have a lot of room to manuver. If you are smart you will take off both of the vents and also remove the rear deck lid for easier access. Deffinately have your craftsman/Mac/Snap-on tools out because you do not want to be doing this with those walmart brand cheapose. you will need a fair amount of patience for this kind of job and you should actually have the heads checked while you have them off. Like the other person said take them to a machine shop that works with heads and have them looked at. If you need them remachined ported or what ever else they would be able to do it at this time. BTW something I've learned in the past. Agriculture equipment techs and machine shops are some of the best to go to. those guys tend to be better at catching the little things than most.
On a side note, mechanics isn't for eveyone. This is deffintately something that can be a total stress reliever to the right person, but, for other people doing this kind of work could cause you to blow an artery in your head from the frustration. if you feel at all that you will not accomplish your goal then I'd strongly advise for you to quit while you haven't done anything yet.
On a side note, mechanics isn't for eveyone. This is deffintately something that can be a total stress reliever to the right person, but, for other people doing this kind of work could cause you to blow an artery in your head from the frustration. if you feel at all that you will not accomplish your goal then I'd strongly advise for you to quit while you haven't done anything yet.
Here is a link to the Fiero Haynes manual:
http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=1
Here is a link to the 1986 Factory Service Manual:
http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=13
Either of these will provide step-by-step procedure for removing the head(s).
If it is a V-6, It is best to change both gaskets.
Not sure why so many folks are saying it is difficult. The 4-cyl is very easy as the engine is OHV. This means the only things to remove are the throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and valve cover. There is ample room to work. It is best to lay a padded board across the trunk so you don't damage the trunk seal.
I've done them on 4-cyl Fiero's in about 3 hours.
V-6's are a little more time consuming due to the 3-part intake, distributor, and the fuel injection system. The firewall side head is a little more difficult due to it's location, But if you remove the trunk side head first it allows you to sit in a better position to remove the other. Average time for doing both head gaskets on a V-6 is about 5 hours.
On the V-6 it's important to install the lower intake first before intalling the pushrods and rockers. The pushrods fit thru the intake gaskets and some folks install the pushrods/rockers first then just cut a slit in the intake gasket. This has caused problems later with the gasket slipping or degrading and causing leaks.
It also helps to set the engine to TDC before removing the distributor to aid in installing it back in.
You can buy an "Upper Gasket Kit" for either engine. This covers ALL the gaskets from the heads on up.
Good Luck and let us know if you need anything else.
http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=1
Here is a link to the 1986 Factory Service Manual:
http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=13
Either of these will provide step-by-step procedure for removing the head(s).
If it is a V-6, It is best to change both gaskets.
Not sure why so many folks are saying it is difficult. The 4-cyl is very easy as the engine is OHV. This means the only things to remove are the throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and valve cover. There is ample room to work. It is best to lay a padded board across the trunk so you don't damage the trunk seal.
I've done them on 4-cyl Fiero's in about 3 hours.
V-6's are a little more time consuming due to the 3-part intake, distributor, and the fuel injection system. The firewall side head is a little more difficult due to it's location, But if you remove the trunk side head first it allows you to sit in a better position to remove the other. Average time for doing both head gaskets on a V-6 is about 5 hours.
On the V-6 it's important to install the lower intake first before intalling the pushrods and rockers. The pushrods fit thru the intake gaskets and some folks install the pushrods/rockers first then just cut a slit in the intake gasket. This has caused problems later with the gasket slipping or degrading and causing leaks.
It also helps to set the engine to TDC before removing the distributor to aid in installing it back in.
You can buy an "Upper Gasket Kit" for either engine. This covers ALL the gaskets from the heads on up.
Good Luck and let us know if you need anything else.
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Dr. Sievers
New member
I think the main reason why people are saying this is because when you think about it. Your first time doing a head gasket way back in the day. Wasn't it a little more difficult then it is now? I remember my first head gasket was on a 1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero and it had the old 289ci block in it. that was the most annoying long pain in the butt job I had ever done. But now a days if you asked me to go flip that head off and replace the gasket. I'd be just fine no worries. I'll see you in four hours with a running car and an empty six pack.
Actually the first head gasket I ever did was on a 1969 Pontiac Catalina with the 400 ci V-8. It took me about a day to do it and it wasn't "difficult" but it was tedious in terms of I carefully pulled things apart and arranged them so I knew how to put them back. Now I could do it in less than half a day since I am familiar with how and where the parts go.
Dr. Sievers
New member
you know I think you're right "difficult" may actually be the wrong word "tedious" may be a much better word for that. And a catalina really? I love those big boats. That's a really nice way to travel down the california HWY 1. especially in a rag top. did that two years ago in I think it was 63 impala custom rag top. decrepid custom rag top, but still.