So the wires on the shifter, the A/T Shift Lock Control Solenoid connector, were broken, causing it to not come out of park and also lock the key in the ignition cylinder...
So we re-did the wiring and now it comes out of park fine, but key still gets stuck in ignition. All the wiring is solid. I did a continuity test from the connector on the shifter to the ignition lock solenoid (ignition lock cylinder control actuator) that moves that locking pin and it beeped so I assume the connection is good from end to end. I also hooked up multimeter and got 12 volts when in park, when shift to drive etc it drops to 0 then back to 12 in park... so that seemed to be correct...
So I assumed it was working and the control voltage is being sent.
However, still not releasing key in park, so I hooked up a test light and noticed when I hook it up the voltage goes from 12 to 0, it drops, and no illumination of light, I also noticed when I plug in the connector I'm testing, the ignition lock actuator, the voltage also goes from 12 to 0.... so under load voltage is going away???
If I take 12v from fuse box and connect to ignition solenoid the pin moves and I can remove key, so it is working, it's an issue with the control.
I'm not an expert and wiring seems solid, as well as continuity test on that line passing.
I'm so incredibly confused by this.
Anybody familiar with this issue and the wiring? Anything I should try. I know I can bypass it and maybe install my own switch to trigger the solenoid but I'd like to leave that as last resort.
So we re-did the wiring and now it comes out of park fine, but key still gets stuck in ignition. All the wiring is solid. I did a continuity test from the connector on the shifter to the ignition lock solenoid (ignition lock cylinder control actuator) that moves that locking pin and it beeped so I assume the connection is good from end to end. I also hooked up multimeter and got 12 volts when in park, when shift to drive etc it drops to 0 then back to 12 in park... so that seemed to be correct...
So I assumed it was working and the control voltage is being sent.
However, still not releasing key in park, so I hooked up a test light and noticed when I hook it up the voltage goes from 12 to 0, it drops, and no illumination of light, I also noticed when I plug in the connector I'm testing, the ignition lock actuator, the voltage also goes from 12 to 0.... so under load voltage is going away???
If I take 12v from fuse box and connect to ignition solenoid the pin moves and I can remove key, so it is working, it's an issue with the control.
I'm not an expert and wiring seems solid, as well as continuity test on that line passing.
I'm so incredibly confused by this.
Anybody familiar with this issue and the wiring? Anything I should try. I know I can bypass it and maybe install my own switch to trigger the solenoid but I'd like to leave that as last resort.