Exactly how did you go about bleeding the slave cylinder? This is from a Fiero web site.
Jack car from front about 1 foot (until master cyl is above height of slave). Remove resevoir cap. Open (not remove) bleeder on slave cyl. Gravity feed 1/2 pint of hydraulic (brake) fluid. If gravity doesn't start fluid movement, SLOWLY depress clutch pedal until fluid starts to move. After 1/2 pint has gone through system, close bleeder. Needle nosed vise grips work best (especially 6 cyl, which may require removal of slave cyl from bracket). Clamp vise grip pliers to slave cyl pushrod. Pull pushrod into the barrel of the slave cyl, while at the same time "cracking" the bleeder. The bleeder is at the wrong end of all three different slave cylinders. Air can be trapped at the end where the pushrod is, and must be pulled to the bleed valve. Check resevoir after first "pull" (can be nearly empty). We repeat this 5 times, or until no more bubbles appear. After 6 times, if there is still a bubble, Start over at the clutch pedal. Step 1, along time ago. Caution: do not shave (cut, machine) the flywheel. Hydraulic clutch systems typically have 0 to .003 clearence between the face of the release bearing and the fingers on the clutch plate. Removing material from the flywheel will move the plate that much further away from the release bearing, perhaps causing a non-release condition. Remanufactured clutches will usually have as much as 1/16" variation in the height of the plate fingers. Also resulting in a non-release condition. If the release bearing fork is too worn, then the same applies. Hydraulic clutch systems are called self adjusting, because they can only move a predetermined amount of fluid. The spring pressure of the plate will override the hydraulic pressure, so, extending the slave cyl pushrod length will not "adjust" the system.
