No crank issue after replacement of power brake booster

jtoc3

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Hi all,
In trying to fix a brake problem I have created a worse issue. I replaced my powerbrake booster. I removed battery and box, I then unbolted the fuse box and tilted it forward, did not disconnect the wires, I did this when I replaced the master cylinder with no problem. Removed the master cylinder and the abs pump etc. Removed the power boost the fuse box was moved but was careful not to strech the wires, at least I thought so. reassembled everything. Went to start the car the dash lights up but when I move the key to start I get nothing. Lights, horn, radio, windows all work just no crank. I have fully charged battery with power going to fuse box. I changed the crank relay didn’t help. I don’t know where to start checking throwing money at it won’t help since I don know what’s wrong. Any ideas where to start all dash lights light up after a minute or so they go out and the stabilatrack light stays on. My code reader will not talk to the system,it reads then says error. This is the first time I have ever had to deal with electric issues and I am quite lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also can someone recommend where I can get a good shop manuel Something better than a hanes book that I have. Again thank you for help.
 
Are you working with a test light or voltmeter to check if the starter relay socket has power and the starter has power?
Other manuals are Chiltons or the very expensive factory manual.
 
Sorry for the time delay in replying. I am using a voltmeter. The readings I have are:

Wires coming off battery: 12.38
Going into battery box: 12.38
Ignition relay 30 plug: 12.38
Crank Relay 30 plug: 0.01
I don’t know if the 30 on the crank is suppose to have power.

Thanks again.
 
That's not a great voltage for a fully charged battery.
Can only guess something happened to fuse box connection when it was moved.
You are sure the battery connections are tight?
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Connections tight. Any ideas on what wires to test and what to look for. I am not all that good with the voltmeter just very basic tests. Or should I have it towed to a shop, don’t really want to spend 125 a hour.
 
You need a wiring diagram.
Local shops are that high?
 
I’m going to try the ones in my haynes book and see what I can figure out if anything. My former neighbor had a shop and I would trouble shoot with him since he died I’ve been looking for anew mechanic. The ones I’ve called all quoted 120 to 130 hr.
 
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