Oxygen Sensor

ericv1984

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I've had a CEL for my upstream oxygen sensor for a while now, never had the time to change it out. I plan on maybe replacing it tomorrow while I'm working on the car. But, if I can't get it out, I was wondering what would happen if I just disconnect it until I can get it replaced? Should I disconnect one or both?

1998 SE 2.4L
 
No need to disconnect it if you cannt get it out.
 
Not the second O2 sensor, it fails and there are no symptoms other than the CEL. That is the one you mean, correct?
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Not the second O2 sensor, it fails and there are no symptoms other than the CEL. That is the one you mean, correct?

By second do you mean the downstream? My CEL says po171 System too lean, and if it's the o2 sensor then online it says bank 1 sensor 1. Which I assumed was the upstream sensor.

One of the symptoms I'm referring to is the hesitation/surge on acceleration.
 
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When I went to go unpluh it, the piece that locks it in place was so brittle that it broke right off. Guess I'll be splicing in a new connector in the near future. For right now, if I can get the oxygen sensor replaced, I'll be wrapping the connections in electrical tape until I can get a new connector.

Right now the sensor is soaking in PB Blaster.
 
OK, you do mean the first sensor, you can try disconnecting it but I cannt imagine that will eliminate the symptoms. You have gone through the list of causes on this link?

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171
 
OK, you do mean the first sensor, you can try disconnecting it but I cannt imagine that will eliminate the symptoms. You have gone through the list of causes on this link?

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171

Sort of.

1 is for the MAF sensor and I don't have a MAF.
2 is for a vacuum leak downstream from the MAF. Since I don't have a MAF, I don't know where they're referring too but I checked all the hoses all they all look intact.
3 is for the PCV line/connection and I don't have a PCV.
4 is again for the PCV.
5 is for the oxygen sensor which I am trying to replace right now.
6 is for low fuel pressure possible clogged/dirty fuel filter. I just replaced the fuel filter a couple weeks ago.
7 is for exhaust leak which I have not checked.
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I got the old sensor out and the new sensor in. Not sure if it was actually bad or the other problem I saw when I was down in the engine. But here are the pics of the o2 sensor....

2vrxvnm.jpg

14b2sn7.jpg


Now here's pics of the cracked exhaust manifold. The previous owner had replaced the catalytic converter as well as the pipe that goes between the cat and the manifold. Apparently, the idiot cracked it and decided to just wrap the crack in foil.

34pgq3k.jpg

2qx5etl.jpg


Now, since it was originally wrapped in foil and there were no symptoms of it until recently, can I re-wrap it until I get it replaced or put some kind of silicone on it? I plan on either replacing it myself or buying the parts and having the local HS do it for 10 dollars an hour when I get the money.
 
they make a muffler hole cement, comes in a tube, you can find it at any autoparts store. When the manifold is cold try forcing as much as possbile into the crack.
 
they make a muffler hole cement, comes in a tube, you can find it at any autoparts store. When the manifold is cold try forcing as much as possbile into the crack.

I just took a test drive in the car since I just replaced the oxygen sensor. Went between 10-15 miles round trip and the car is a lot spunkier, seems to drive better with no hesitation (knock on wood). But the sputter on idle is still there but not as dramatic as before. I'm hoping fixing the crack fixes the sputter.

On my drive, I went to O'reillys and bought Quick Steel. I'm gonna try that and if that doesn't work then I'll try your suggestion.
 
as long as Quick Steel is good for high temp should be good
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as long as Quick Steel is good for high temp should be good

I watched a video on YouTube of a guy repairing his with Quick Steel and he said it's rated up to 2400 degrees but I'm not so sure of that. But it's made for exhaust manifolds as well as other things.
 
I just put it on this morning, I used a mirror to look at the underside of the manifold and the crack looks like it goes all the way around. So, I tried my best to cover the underside with quick steel but not sure if I got all of the underside of the crack. I then wrapped it tightly with some foil, since it was originally wrapped with foil for a few months. I thought it couldn't hurt anything if I did, I was wrong. I was driving to get something to eat and the engine started smoking. I pulled over and the foil was burning and the quick steel was smoking so I took the foil off.

Apparently quick steel will burn for a while but then go away. But now my engine bay and the inside of my car stinks.
 
Was hoping the oxygen sensor would take care of the fuel smell from the exhaust, it made it not as severe of a smell but the smell is still there. The oxygen sensor code had been set for a while, so I was wondering, if the upstream oxygen sensor had been bad for a while, could that foul the downstream oxygen sensor?
 
The Quick Steel didn't work. After a day it just chipped right off. Don't know why since it says it meant for exhaust manifolds.

I found two other things I'm thinking about trying. I typed in "muffler cement" into the search bar for O'reilly and a list of things came up. The first is something called "muffler weld" by VersaChem, it says it can handle up to 1000 degrees and 1500 degrees intermittently. Also found one called "muffler and tailpipe sealer" by Permatex, says it can handle up to 2000 degrees. Which would be better or do you have another suggestion?
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the higher the better
 
the higher the better

Yeah I was thinking that, but I called O'reilly and the guy said that they won't hold up on exhaust manifolds due to the heat and suggested that I get the manifold welded instead.

But I'm not so sure since that Permatex one said 2000 degrees and I doubt exhaust manifolds get hotter then that.
 
How about picking up another manifold at a junk yard?
 
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