P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

ericv1984

ericv1984

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I've had my CEL on for a while now and knew it was due to needing to replace my upstream O2 sensor. I decided to get my car scanned again so I went to Autozone and had them test my battery also, since my car was acting like it wanted to die at idle and when it would do this my dash lights would dim. So I got it tested and it said the battery was bad and also I got my car scanned. P0507 came up a long with two other codes. I've already looked up the causes of P0507 and the possible solutions. I plan on working on the car in the morning to see if I can fix it.

When the car sputters/acting like it wants to die at idle, I usually rev the car up to about 1k RPMs so it won't sputter cause I'm afraid of it dying. When the car is in drive, it runs fine, it only sputters at idle. So I was wondering, which one of these would be the more likely cause....

Throttle body
EGR valve
Idle air control valve
EVAP purge valve
EVAP canister

Even though I cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the EGR valve gasket, and replaced the idle air control valve about 3 months ago. I also replaced the EVAP purge solenoid about a month ago and was going to replace the EVAP purge valve at the same time but I couldn't figure out how to remove it.

The other CELs that are on right now are...

P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
P0171 - System too lean (bank 1)

Also, could the P0507 also be due to the oxygen sensor (P0171) needing to be replaced?
 
I'd say the o2 sensor was fine, it's just letting you know that something isn't right. I just had a similar problem, turned out to be vacuum leak on the intake phleum, try a new gasket...pretty cheap place to start.
 
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tatey2457 said:
I'd say the o2 sensor was fine, it's just letting you know that something isn't right. I just had a similar problem, turned out to be vacuum leak on the intake phleum, try a new gasket...pretty cheap place to start.
Click to expand...

I looked up the gasket at O'reilly and AutoZone, only one comes up. So if I need a upper and a lower, are they the same? So just buy two or are they different?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...ar=1998&make=Pontiac&model=Sunfire&vi=1317143

Btw, it's a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2.4L
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tatey2457 said:
That's the intake gasket, just one of those...I'd also replace the throttle body gasket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...year=1998&make=Pontiac&categoryRedirect=02547
Click to expand...

I was already planning on replacing the tb gasket anyway. I've heard that you need to replace the gasket every time you take off the part, whether it's a egr, tb, or valve cover.

I'm not sure if that's true or not but it could't hurt to have them replaced every time anyway. And those gaskets are cheap.

Thanks.
 
My bad, 98 > don't have them. What would the symptoms be if the oil/air separator somehow got blocked?
 
tatey2457 said:
My bad, 98 > don't have them. What would the symptoms be if the oil/air separator somehow got blocked?
Click to expand...

On justanswer.com he said ...

"When the oil/ air separator is bad, you will see milky/ oily substance in the air cleaner."

He also said that it would cause oil leaks. But I have no oil in my air cleaner and no oil leaks. I checked the oil last week and then again the other day and both times it was at the full mark so it's not burning oil either.
 
Do you happen to know where the oil/air separator is, what it looks like, and where I can get a new one (in case it is bad)?
 
found this on another site, it is inside the valve cover and is not serviceable

As you are standing in front of the car facing the engine, if you look down at the top of the engine it is in the back lefthand corner of the valve cover. You will see a weird looking 1-1 1/4 inch star shaped nut on a round thing that sort of slopes up out of and toward the back of the engine & has about a 4" tube sticking out of it connecting to the fuel injector? assembly. If it is on too tight to loosen with by hand use a channel locks pliers to loosen it. Then pull the tube out & the pcv valve will be inserted into the end of the tube. Simply replace & hand tighten the nut.
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I just looked up the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter. The symptoms sound like what's going on so I'm gonna replace that soon then see if anything changes.

The symptoms also say that there will be a hard start condition if partially clogged, which my car does have a hard start. Sometimes it takes a while to start, and sometimes it fires right up.

EDIT: Replaced the fuel filer with no luck. Still has a long crank, sputters at idle, and stalls out.
 
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