Quality of Rock Auto fuel pump assembly

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spaceblonde

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Was driving on Thanksgiving day as the Ice storm hit the Texas Panhandle. Had a loss of power no restart.


do not hear fuel pump , fuse is good ,, hard to check relay being alone.

Did the spray 8 seconds of starting fluid into air filter housing car ran for 10 to 20 seconds then died just like before.

I have replaced the C3>> and car was running well untill it died.

Now I feel fairly well in saying it is the fuel pump. My question is on quality replacement assembly from Rock auto.

Most of the ones I can get here locally are over $200 bucks. They have them for under 100. Seeing as I am out of work since October the cheaper I can fix this the better.

2000 Pontiac Montana

Also haveing typical no fuel gauge reading which I have had entire time owning car
 
Well if your on a budget, I would pull the tank and inspect the pump assembly.

The common thing I have found on these fuel pump assemblies that they all show a updated electrical connector for fuel pump.

If this is the case you may be able to repair the connector or solder wires to the fuel pump housing connector. installing a new male female water tight repair connector found many paces online.

once you get the pump assembly out you may be able to diagnose and repair the float assembly.

Yet if it was my car and my problem to repair it, I would start by researching the Factory TSBs technical service bulletins. to get more information on this possible faulty connector.

If you do opt to try and repair it use common sense do not solder on this pump assembly while the pump is on or near the tank or any fuel fumes.

meaning you will need to strip the pump assembly apart checking everything rinse the housing off and flushing it with water then non flammable parts cleaner. Do this with the pump off the assembly if it is removable.

If the pump is not designed to come out of the assembly you may reconsider attempting a repair.

If the repair looks like a viable option, and you get the fuel sending unit working I would say you have nothing to lose other than a little time.

you can test the entire pump assembly pumping water from a bucket.
if it works just bump most of the water out of the pump assembly then put the assembly in the tank purging the pump to clear any water out into a bucket.

make sure before removing the tank use a rattle siphon to siphon as much fuel as you can from the tank. making the tank manageable to remove by yourself.
 
I used a SPECTRA PREMIUM pump ( $119 for your listing) on my old 2000 S10 before, worked great with no problems.

Not sure on the other brands they list under $100 ( never heard of any of them)

Most on the web say to use the Delco ones in GM cars though.

If you can , locate a used low mileage one from a wrecking yard. (Or get a couple if cheap enough )

www.car-part.com will help you in the search for one locally.

Fuel filter need to changed every third oil change and at least leave 1/4 of fuel in the tank for pumps to last.( got about 200,000 miles on the S10's original pump)

Doug in P.R.:cool:
 
Well got a Airtex pump having it installed. Found out why the gas gauge didn't work. The float fell off!! so with out a float the gauge wont work. it is still being installed he got a late start today.
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good to hear you found the cause of the gauge issue
 
gauge yes still no start ,, and cant find how to check fuel pressure
 
There should be a place on the fuel rail under the hood to connect a fuel pressure gauge.
 
here is a video on the 3.4 this is a Chevy vehicle and a 2004 but your should be similar the shows where the fuel pressure test port is. I am not sure if your is in the same place yet it is a place to start looking.
If you had a service manual your life would be sooooooo much easier

http://nortonsafe.search.ask.com/se...s&o=APN11910&chn=&ver=&tpr=2&ts=1450622816855
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