Security system ?!

[hipnhappy]

Hey all,
I was going to tack this on with my previous post on the "overheating fix" I found (haven't been able to verify it works because ...), having replaced the fuel pump after doing the thermostat re-location swap, when I got everything set she fired over, ran for about 30 seconds and died. Have not been able to get her to "run" or "fire" since then.
OBDII scan shows "No Error Codes" and I have spark at the plugs, fuel on the rail and injectors are pumping. I know this by pulling all the plugs, turning over the engine watching spurts of fuel come from each cylinder, checked spark on each plug and if the injectors were pumping I have fuel. Fuel pressure was enough to run idle for 30 seconds so NEW fuel pump operating effectively.
Which brings me to the "security system" question. When I got this vehicle it had sat for a while after a head was changed out. I know and respect the abilities of the previous mechanic and since there is no valve adjustment after setting the 22fps the rest of the re-assembly appears all correct as well, this is not a result of any of the above having an issue.
I replaced the battery when I first got the vehicle and while installing it, located a small odd black box with a pair of what looked like "stereo wires" running into the firewall. I took them for some type of "Amplifier or booster" power feed so I eliminated the little box which did not seem even connected to the battery ends anyway.
Question is, "what represents the security system", did this small box have anything to do with it, can it be "by passed" and will it "prevent the car from starting" if absent from the system.
I've read a few places where "failure to start and continue to run" even with spark and fuel are present are a consistent issue with these things and have only seen one ( I guess resolved because the "poster" said "fixed" after he replaced his gauge cluster), after having tried a new electronic key and a myriad of sensors, the coil even the ECM with no results until he got a used cluster and changed it out.
So, "IS" the little box an integral part of the security system? "Will" the security system tell the ECM not to allow the vehicle to start and finally, is there any way to by pass the system to see if it is functioning or effecting start/run operation?
Thanks , will try the 15 minutes in on position and pull out the key, let stand 10 minutes after the rain quits in case may resolve the issue. Gotta be something simple though just gotta work through the various interacting components of these "miracles of modern technology". I'll take an old slant or straight six over this "efficiency through electronics" crap ANY DAY !!! LOL!!!

 

[Lemming]

Could the gasoline be stale?? You stated the car sat for a 6 months or so... Have you tried to start the car using starting fluid?? I'm leaning towards this hypothesis as you stated the car started and ran for 30 seconds.

I had my Sunfire sitting for a week waiting for parts, (with the battery disconnected) when I attempted to start it (turning key to first position), the lights came up (just fine) but when I attempted to engage the starter I heard a click and all went black. I waited 10 minutes, disconnected the battery and reconnected the battery and it started and has been running just fine since.

Just my two cents...

Best of luck.

 

[melsg5]

1. Is the security light on?
2. Could you have a bad crank sensor?
3. Did you actually measure the fuel pressure?
4. Have you done a compression test?

 

[hipnhappy]

Update ~

Okay so, first I'll respond to the helpful comments,
Yes, "Lemming", I flushed, cleaned and actually used a firm wire bristled cleaning brush to "scrub" the scale, gunk and rust out of the tank while I had it out to changed the fuel pump. I have some skinny arms and was able to reach pretty much EVERYWHERE inside the tank then flushed it several times using good ol' dawn dish detergent. After blowing it out and leaving it out in the sun for a day to fully dry out. I put "fresh" gas in after the tank was reinstalled.
I replaced the battery when I first got the vehicle, granted a "used" one from a salvage yard but, at $35,00 with a one year warranty as opposed to over a hundred on a vehicle I was not sure of it's fate it was a compromise and load tested fine before installing. Connections were all cleaned with a wire brush on install as well and she cranked over very well with a little 30 weight oil thinned down with gas and sprayed in each cylinder and allowed to set for a day before I even turned it over.
"Melsg5", 1- Actually when I started several of the indicator lights were "flickering" (not just as the ignition was charged by turning the key) and one of the suspects that led to what I'm considering was the resolution. however, once the key was in start position the security light was only on "briefly" and went out as I am figuring is normal for that system.
2- I was leaving the "crank sensor" for "after" what I figured was going to be a last "cheap and simple solution", and never got to take it out for testing or replacement.
3- I never "load" tested the actual pressure in the system with a gauge, I did disconnect the feed line from the "pressure regulator valve" just ahead of the fuel rail and after a "cleansing flush" through a piece of hose into a container I saw what "I" was satisfied was sufficient pressure and I had had plenty of fuel through the rail so I accepted it as not being the culprit to the failure to run issue.
4- As I was turning the engine over after allowing the oil/gas mixture to set in the cylinders I "pop tested" each cylinder holding back the compression and they all seemed pretty equal. I ruled out having a "bad hole" or a lack of sufficient compression since they were all equal. Though I didn't "gauge test" them, I again ruled their compression out as the culprit.
What I "feel" resolved the problem, (yes, it's started and running now), and was key in how I arrived at the conclusion which apparently corrected the situation was that I also have a 1987 Isuzu Trooper II that I put on hold to do this "quick" fuel pump change out which oddly enough is demonstrating the SAME characteristics !
The Trooper has sat EVEN LONGER through different stages of having had the head replaced, wound up needing a fuel pump (in tank pump) and now exhibits the same "have fuel, have spark, ran a few seconds and died, now won't run but turns over and over" symptoms.
I considered that two COMPLETELY different vehicles of different ages, different manufacturer's, etc. although having had the SAME CONDITIONS ie; sitting for long periods, having heads changed out, changing intank fuel pumps, would have the same problem causing the "failure to run" issue and throughout my years of tinkering and various "shade tree" love affairs with cars recall an old timer way back when saying "if there's no reason for it, it's in the WIRING".
I can't count the times a bad connection has resolved some "simple" starter issue or alternator charging or power window problem was absolved with just the twist of a connecter or cleaning up a contact or ground. And I became convinced because of the vast differences between these two vehicles, the similarities of the conditions and common problem that my next step was to go through EVERY connection, connector, and ground, "EVERYTHING" I could reach and locate and clean them up, twist and pull apart and replug a couple of times to insure that EVERYTHING was "well connected".
After a couple of hours (really not that long, and by no means strenuous or labor intensive), I was satisfied I had all I could do done, I got in, turned the key and she fired right up ! Well, took a few minutes to run out the stuff I had sprayed in the cylinders and whatever else, after about five minutes of throttling up and holding steady around 2500 rpm and easing it down to idle it smoothed out and was I was relatively satisfied the problem might only repeat itself on "startup" and tested it by shutting it down and restarting 4-5 times with no repeat of "failure to start".
I let it sit for a few hours to cool back down (an additional note here, the "overheating fix" in my other post has apparently worked and when the engine temp reached the thermostat opening temperature, the fan kicked on and everything worked as it should cooling it back down), so from a relatively cold start, again, no repeat of "failure to start and run" I consider the situation "fixed"
I did an OBD II check and have two codes for a misfire in number 4 code "0403" and will be looking into that, it has new wires and plugs, I swapped the plugs from two different cylinders and the same error (yes, AFTER clearing the old codes) so, the project continues.
Hope this is helpful to someone, I'll never again short sell "if there's no reason for it, it's the wiring"!