Starting Problem

ericv1984

ericv1984

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Lacey, WA
1998 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2.4L, 194,400+ miles.


I've had a starting problem for a while now. It originally had this problem after we replaced my fuel pump, so I was thinking the pump was going bad or one of the hoses came loose since I got just a pump and not the whole fuel pump assembly. So I ordered a whole assembly but haven't gotten around to replacing it.

But, over time it's been slowly getting worse. Now it's a slow crank for about 10 seconds when the engine is cold and only a couple to a few seconds when the engine is warmed up. To me, it sounds like the starter is going out but it sometimes stalls after starting the car and takes a while to restart. Can a bad starter make a car stall right after it starts?

I took a video of the sound, and in the video there is a grinding noise, I know the grinding noise is the starter from having the key turned to long. But with this car, its hard to tell how long to have the key turned for it to start. The battery and the alternator were both tested but that was a while ago, I haven't gotten around to getting them tested again but I will in the very near future as well as scan for anymore codes besides the one that I currently know it's throwing, which is the one for the upstream oxygen sensor. But I don't think it's the battery or alternator since all my electronics work (except for the stupid dome light and trunk light).

Here's the video....

View My Video

In the morning when the engine is cold, I'll try to take another video (if I remember) so you can see how long it takes with the engine cold and you'll be able to hear the slow cranking better. The video above was taken after I went for a drive, should've taken it before I went for the drive when the engine was colder but I wasn't thinking. Also, the fuel gauge needle kind of whips back and forth real quick when I first turn the key, why is that? It hasn't always done it but I'm not sure when it started.

Also, I've already replaced the fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, all 4 spark plug boots, both coil packs, camshaft position sensor, cleaned my EGR valve and replaced the gasket, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, idle air control valve, fuel filter and air filter about a couple months ago, tested all 4 fuel injectors with an automotive stethoscope and they were all firing perfectly, cleaned the throttle body, but all that was related to another problem. As well as changed my oil about 500-750 miles ago with Valvoline Nextgen 5W-30 50% recycled oil and a Bosch Distance Plus oil filter.
 
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Slow cranking is either a weak battery or the starter itself or bad battery connections. You need to have the battery load tested and have the alternator output checked. If they are OK, then combined with the noise you hear it's the starter.
 
melsg5 said:
Slow cranking is either a weak battery or the starter itself or bad battery connections. You need to have the battery load tested and have the alternator output checked. If they are OK, then combined with the noise you hear it's the starter.
Click to expand...

I wish I had replaced the starter about a month or so ago when this started happening. Then I wouldn't have to deal with a broken down car now.

I was going to go get the battery and alternator checked on the way home today but I went to the store first to get some batteries, got back in the car, went to start it and it sounded like it wanted to crank over. But it only made the cranking sound for about a second then died. I tried to start it again, turned the key and nothing. Didn't even try to crank over at all, no noise. All the dash lights were working perfectly and not dim at all, radio came on too. So I'm pretty sure it is the starter.

To bad I don't have anything to test the battery and alternator just to rule those out, since it's broken down and I won't be able to drive it to the auto parts store.

But, isn't there a way to get it to start? I think I read something about people hitting the starter a couple times with a hammer to get it to start, is this true? I just want it to be able to start so I can drive it home, cause it's currently parked at a parking lot about 3-4 miles from my apartment.
 
melsg5 said:
Slow cranking is either a weak battery or the starter itself or bad battery connections. You need to have the battery load tested and have the alternator output checked. If they are OK, then combined with the noise you hear it's the starter.
Click to expand...

I have a question, since I hear nothing when I turn the key, could it also be a bad ignition switch? Hopefully it is, since they are much cheaper then a starter.
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You stated you had a grinding noise, the ignition switch wouldnt cause that.
 
melsg5 said:
You stated you had a grinding noise, the ignition switch wouldnt cause that.
Click to expand...

Yes, I had a grinding noise when I left the key turned to far when the car would start. But now, when I turn the key there is no noise. Doesn't even try to turn over, I just thought maybe if it was the ignition switch, then the starter wasn't getting any power to attempt to turn over or make that clicking noise that people usually hear when it's a bad starter.
 
You could test the starter solenoid to see if there is current when you turn the key to start
 
melsg5 said:
You could test the starter solenoid to see if there is current when you turn the key to start
Click to expand...

Well I just went back to look at a few things. I cleaned the battery terminals even though they looked fine. Checked the oil, was a little low so I filled it back up. Car still won't start. When I turn the key, it makes one click but then no noise after that. When I turn the key off and then turn it back to on, it doesn't make that click. I jacked up the car, got underneath and hit the starter a few times to see if that would make it start so I could at least drive it home, still won't start.

The clicking, isn't that the solenoid? I have an ohm meter to test it, but I still don't know how to use it.

I also watched a video from Eric The Car Guy on YouTube yesterday, in his video he said that if you turn the headlights on and they are bright, then it's not a battery issue. And my headlights are bright when they are turned on.
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You need to find out if there is power to the solenoid when the key is in the start position. Look for a smaller terminal on the starter. It probably has a purple wire attached to it. There should be 12 volts there when the key is in the start position.
 
Jacked up the car and hit the starter with a hammer while my fiance turned the key and it eventually started.

Guess it's time to buy a new starter.
 
Installed the starter today and there is no grinding noise anymore, but there is still a 5 second or so crank time.
 
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