97 Sunfire misfire

msfaulk

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Hello,

I need a little advise. I have a 97 Sunfire with the 2.4L motor. I'm getting 3 codes.
1. P0141 HO2S Heater Circuit Sensor2
2. P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
3. P1441 EVAP System Flow during non-purge.

The engine also lugs back and forth pretty bad at idle, and it stalls one or two times in cold weather. When it stalls, it's after it has been put in gear and driven, then stopped. Like backing out, or stooping at a stop sign. Once it is warmed up from driving the stalling stops. Letting it warm up at idle in the drive way does not stop the initial stalls. Once it does stall, it will not start right away, it takes 3-5 tries. The cat was punched out a few years ago. Any suggestions on which one of these I should troubleshoot first? Do you think they are all related? I was thinking of starting by replacing the cat and the O2 sensor after the cat and go from there. Any advise would be great. Thanks.

Mike
 
I replaced everything in the ignition system about 2 years ago. So I will start with the fuel injectors in the AM and work my way from there. Thanks for the links.

Mike
 
well, I found gas in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, so I changed that out and cleared all the codes. When I started it up, the p0302 misfire code came back within 1 min. Took it for a quick spin around the block. Seemed to run fine. Engine still lugs when idle. I cleared the code again, and it came back again within 1 min. Could that be an indication for anything?
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well, I found gas in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, so I changed that out and cleared all the codes. When I started it up, the p0302 misfire code came back within 1 min. Took it for a quick spin around the block. Seemed to run fine. Engine still lugs when idle. I cleared the code again, and it came back again within 1 min. Could that be an indication for anything?

It's an indication that there is still vacuum leak somewhere, Cylinder is not receiving Spark, Fuel Injector Failing or Fuel Injector electric wire is broken somewhere. Check for leaks in the intake manifold, EGR, PCV, etc. Check the intake manifold gasket too, you can spray around the gasket and listen for idle change. Also, check for spark, install one of those spark testers and while the engine is running you should be able to see the spark if the ignition system is working OK. If all of the above tested ok, test Fuel Injector #2 by using a Test Noid Light Tool (test all 4 actually). If there is no vacuum leak, spark is good, wiring is good, fuel injectors are good, run a compression/leak down test to make sure engine is good internally.
 
I'm getting spark from all 4 plug boots. I sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold and there was no change in idle, so I don't think there is a leak there. All 4 injectors are clicking steady (used a screwdriver to listen). I suppose number 2 injectr could be clogged. Guess I'll have to do a compression check once I aquire a guage. It's also still stlling when cold. This think has got me at the end of rope...
 
I'm getting spark from all 4 plug boots. I sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold and there was no change in idle, so I don't think there is a leak there. All 4 injectors are clicking steady (used a screwdriver to listen). I suppose number 2 injectr could be clogged. Guess I'll have to do a compression check once I aquire a guage. It's also still stlling when cold. This think has got me at the end of rope...


Is it still throwing other codes besides the Misfire one?
The engine will stall when it's cold if it is not receiving the right air and fuel mixture. Did you check if the O2 Sensor is functioning properly?
Also, unplug the Electric Connector of Fuel Injectors and listen for idle change. Screwdriver may tell you that is working but you won't know if it is spraying the right amount of fuel. So besides it being clogged it could be that it is not receiving the right voltage pulse.


Make sure you take out the Air Idle Control Valve and clean it well!
 
Well, I ended up taking it to a transmission shop because there was a knocking when it was in drive only. Not park or reverse, just drive and 1,2,and 3. He didn't think it was the tranny because it knocked with the rhythm of the misfire. So he brought it to the mechanic next door and they found no compression on number 2 cylinder, and low compression on 1. they put a camera in number 2 and found the valve burned up. So, they recommended replacing the head with a rebuilt one. They wanted $3200 for that, and $3500 for a used engine with 90,000 miles on it. Not sure if I'll scrap it or fix it. If I fix it, I'll do it myself. I just happened to call the same salvage yard they did for the engine. It's $1,075 with 6 month warranty. I'll think about it for a while. Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike
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Well, I ended up taking it to a transmission shop because there was a knocking when it was in drive only. Not park or reverse, just drive and 1,2,and 3. He didn't think it was the tranny because it knocked with the rhythm of the misfire. So he brought it to the mechanic next door and they found no compression on number 2 cylinder, and low compression on 1. they put a camera in number 2 and found the valve burned up. So, they recommended replacing the head with a rebuilt one. They wanted $3200 for that, and $3500 for a used engine with 90,000 miles on it. Not sure if I'll scrap it or fix it. If I fix it, I'll do it myself. I just happened to call the same salvage yard they did for the engine. It's $1,075 with 6 month warranty. I'll think about it for a while. Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike

That engine is still pricy in my opinion. Lots of of those engines available for less. I came across many that cost less than $500; 2.4L/2.2L. Of you course you would end up paying less if you were to buy just Cylinder Head. I did a quick search around here, there is one available for $500 and has 72K (2.2L). above 100K, price ranges from $300 to $450. I just wanted to share, let me know if you need more info, best of luck :)
 
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