Locks don't work

bluedemon

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Hi everyone! I just sold my 2003 Pontiac Grand Am and turned around and bought a 2002 Pontiac Montana AWD I have some minor problems I can't figure out on my own. I am hoping you guys can help me. First my lock switches do not work inside on either door. Even when I have the car running I can't lock or unlock the doors with the switch. I can however lock the doors with my remote and the doors do lock when you start the car and unlock when you shut the car off and take out the key. Fuse of course is good. I have done a search about it on this forum and read about a white wire that is crimped but if I'm not mistaken that was only for unlocking but not locking. I checked for power on all the contacts in the wire connector by the switch and there was no "hot" wire. Is the white wire for locking AND unlocking or is there a color for the lock feature.
Also my van sits really low. Where do I find the "electronic level control" for my air shocks and is there a fuse for it or just a circuit breaker. Thanks for any help you can give me!
 
here is a link to the owners manual, read the section starting at 2-6

http://www.pontiac.com/content/dam/...ontana/2002-pontiac-montana-owners-manual.pdf

there are a few sections that cover the normal operation of the locks that could be set up in a way that your not used to.

Go through the entire door locking section and subsections make sure the vehicle is setup according to the way you expect. if you are experiencing a problem that requires diagnostics and or work to sort out we will try and help.

Below is a example of a sub section worth looking into. ( before taking your vehicle apart)

Lockout Deterrent
The lockout deterrent feature makes it difficult for you
to lock your keys in your vehicle. If the driver’s door
is open while the keys are in the ignition, a chime will
sound and you will not be able to use your power door
lock switch to lock the vehicle.
If you don’t leave the keys in the ignition or if you use
the manual door lock, you could still lock your keys
in your vehicle. Always remember to take your keys
with you.
To turn this feature off or on, see “Multifunction Alarm
Locks and Lighting Choices” in the Index.


The Automatic Level control operates the rear only, it is automatic and does not control the normal ride height. it adjust the height of the rear of the vehicle to compensate for loads by added cargo or use of a trailer .

If your entire vehicle is low because of sagging springs the level control is not designed to make up for that.

the compressor should be controlled by a switch on the rear suspension.

the fuse for this is labeled ELC/TRAILER

To know if it is working or not have someone sit on the rear bumper then turn the key on you should here the compressor run. and the vehicle should raise up then shut off.

If it raises up and your concerned there may be a leak, get a spray bottle of soapy water and spray down the air lines connections the shocks compressor head and connections.

If the compressor does not come on check for power at the related fuse with a computer safe test light on both sides of the fuse.

if you have power there, re run the test where you load the rear of the vehicle down with the key on and test for power at the compressor to ensure the switch is sending the signal to run.

If you do not have power to the compressor you can check the switch to see if it is good with a DVOM ( digital volt ohm meter )

Or just break out a factory service manual for the diagnostic flow chart that will help you pin point the problem.

Again if the whole vehicle is too low you may have to replace the springs.

Do not forget the obvious like making sure the tires are inflated and they are the correct size for the vehicle.

many times the system will develop a leak and cause the compressor to run its self to death, the previous owner may not have heard the compressor running all the time if they always had the radio turned up.


here is a small clip from the owners manual

Electronic Level Control (Option)
On vehicles equipped with the optional electronic level
control, the rear of the vehicle is automatically kept
level as you load or unload your vehicle. However, you
should still not exceed the GVWR or the GAWR.
If the engine is running or the ignition key is in
ACCESSORY or when Retained Accessory Power
(RAP) is active, you may hear the compressor
operating when you load or unload your vehicle,
and periodically as the system self-adjusts. This is
normal. See “Retained Accessory Power” in the Index.
The compressor should operate for brief periods of time.
If the sound continues for an extended period of time,
your vehicle needs service.
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask
your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way
 
WOW!! That is a great response EaOutlaw. Thank you for the help! I have never owned a vehicle with all these "extras" in them before. It will take me a little to get used to it. I went to the salvage yard and found a van that had an owners manual in it but it's in rough shape so I will go by that link you gave me. It is snowing out pretty good right now so I will try to get to it tomorrow. I'll let you know if it worked. Thanks Again! I will more than likely have more questions about other things but one thing at a time.
 
thanks, I just hope it helps some
______________________________
 
Hi ! A small addition....
Here is what you can do to diagnose the locks. Remove the switch, and momentary ground the light blue wire, then the white wire. This should cycle the door locks (open-close) . If grounding the indicated wires with nothing happening on either side, It leads to a wiring issue. First check the splice pack located at the Body harness, under the right front door sill approximately 13 cm (5 in) from the breakout . These may have issues from the water.
(Watch the video and pictures)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKxmnyGtijg

11402770.jpg


11402775.jpg


11402789.jpg


11402797.jpg


Good luck!
Sergei .
 
Hi ! A small addition....
Here is what you can do to diagnose the locks. Remove the switch, and momentary ground the light blue wire, then the white wire. This should cycle the door locks (open-close) . If grounding the indicated wires with nothing happening on either side, It leads to a wiring issue. First check the splice pack located at the Body harness, under the right front door sill approximately 13 cm (5 in) from the breakout . These may have issues from the water.
(Watch the video and pictures)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKxmnyGtijg

11402770.jpg


11402775.jpg


11402789.jpg


11402797.jpg


Good luck!
Sergei .

Nice post thanks for sharing
 
Are there a lot of Pontiac Montana's in Moscow?
 
Hello everybody .
I already wrote that the Montana, Venturе, Silhouette and Opel Sintra have a lot in common. Posting similar in many respects. Faults in the wiring also similar. The first two pictures - Opel Sintra.
Rest of the photos - Venturе, Montana.
In Moscow, only saw one car Pontiac Montana, and two car Chevrolet Venture.



!!!
______________________________
 
Thank you. I did not realize Opel had a version of the Montana.
 
Hi !
Body (skeleton) is identical to the Chevy Venture (1997-2004), Pontiac Montana -Trans Sport (1997-2004) , Oldsmobile Silhouette (1997-2004) , Opel Sintra (1997-1999) .
All these cars were manufactured in the same factory ( in Doraville, Georgia )
But Opel Sintra was produced for Europe.
 
Looks like they offered a manual trans over there. As far as I know you couldn't get one over here.
 
Thank you very much for the awesome pictures Sergei. That helped alot! I ended up pulling the car in my garage because it is 5 degrees in Wisconsin! Anyway I tried grounding the wires in the switch connector on both sides and I got nothing. So now I will go thru the wires. I take it that light blue is to lock and white is to unlock?

Also I checked the fuse for the air shocks and it was good. I will have to try and put my fat butt under the car to check if I got power to the air compressor after I work on the lock problems.
______________________________
 
Hi!
For Europe Opel Sintra has 3 engine.
Opel Sintra 3.0 liters. (Gasoline), automatic transmission
Opel Sintra 2.2 liters. (Gasoline), manual transmission (a car I have)
Opel Sintra 2.2 l. (Diesel), manual transmission
Here is another example:
Car Pontiac Trans Sport 1992-1995.
For America was produced car with the engine 3.8 liters.
For Europe, this car have established the engine 2.3 liters.(with manual transmission).

Thank you very much for the awesome pictures Sergei. That helped alot! I ended up pulling the car in my garage because it is 5 degrees in Wisconsin! Anyway I tried grounding the wires in the switch connector on both sides and I got nothing. So now I will go thru the wires. I take it that light blue is to lock and white is to unlock?

White wire is power door unlock, the Lt Blue wire is power door lock
... Addition to the previous my post
Cut the tape off of the wires running through the channel there. look for a splice with one white wire coming from the driver's side to two white wires going to the BCM. It will most likely be wrapped in black duct tape or something similar. Redo the splice and while you're in there, there are three or four other ones that will be corroded too. Redo those while you're there or you'll be doing this again.
 
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Yeah I already went thru some of the wires. I found 2(sets of three) white ones and 1 (set of three) orange one that just broke apart when I slightly pulled on them. Everything was wet and muddy WOW! Do you know if there are some blue ones in that loom that are crimped and taped by chance? What is the best way to tape everything back up so they don't get wet when I'm done? I know I am going to use shrink tubing on the connectors when I splice them back together but what kind of tape should I wrap everything back up with? Thanks again for the help!
 
Okay so I went thru the wires and found (4) that I had to re-wire all in sets of 3. Light blue, yellow, orange, and white. My locks work now!! EVERYONE THAT HELPED ME THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Does anyone know what the yellow and orange wires are for? I am going to check the wire harness one more time to make sure I didn't miss anything. I am not a GM person so I don't know this answer but why would they do that with the wires?
______________________________
 
Hi !
In the first picture - a compound of wires (white, blue - central locking)
In the second picture - a compound of wires (yellow - Power windows)
Regarding orange wires - I do not remember
Best regards
Sergei.
11425830.jpg
 
I found one more bad (set of 3) wires which was black with a white line. Now I am going to work on the air shocks to see why the rear of my car is so low. Thank you everyone so very much for all the help! Should I start a different thread when talking and asking questions about the air compressor?
 
Please start a new thread for the rear suspension, when you get the problem resolved it will help other members or guest find information on the rear suspension if they have a similar problem.

Thanks sergeimoskva for sharing the wiring diagram and information.
 
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