1965 LeMans Headlight Issue

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willongboarder

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Hello,

I've got a 65 LeMans with a '72 455 in it, and am having issues with the headlights.

The issue started the day I drove it home, when I hit a deer... both passenger headlights were broken, which caused the driver's side headlights to also stop working (that was odd to me, that they run in series). I took the high beam off the driver's side and put it on the passenger side and was able to drive home, albeit a bit rude to have one cockeyed bright lamp. After being repaired, the headlights worked fine, but over the last winter they stopped working.

Checking with a meter, I don't have power at the lights, brights on or off, but the running lights do work in the halfway (switch) position. Brake lights and rear running lights work (half and full switch extension), as do the interior and exterior turn signals. I've also disconnected the plug that feeds the lights (in the engine compartment) and don't have power there either.

I replaced the switch hoping it would solve the issue and also because it was finicky and wouldn't always turn the running lights on (headlights didn't work with the old switch and still don't, with the new ACDelco D6251D).

I know the stereo had been replaced before me with an aftermarket one, but the original is in now and not hooked up (waiting to get the right connector from Ames). I say that because I've read that maybe the ground wire from the stereo has to do with the electrical system. That wire, which is gray and comes off the top of the stereo, currently goes nowhere.

One thing that is different about the ACDelco switch is that it has a dedicated ground terminal on the outside of the switch module itself, a prong/blade like the others that would accept a ground wire if one existed in the original setup. I figure maybe I should run a proper ground over to it to see if that helps. I did try running the ground wire from the clock to the dash with no luck but I don't trust the connection to the dash.

So, this was a long winded way to ask if anyone has any experience with the lighting setup on these cars, or experience with using the new ACDelco switches.

Thanks!
 
1. Did you test the bulb sockets with the original switch?
2. You are making sure you have a good ground when testing the bulb sockets?
3. Did you look at the switches at www.rockauto.com and find one that is a better match?
 
melsg5 said:
1. Did you test the bulb sockets with the original switch?
2. You are making sure you have a good ground when testing the bulb sockets?
3. Did you look at the switches at www.rockauto.com and find one that is a better match?
Click to expand...


I checked the connectors that the bulbs plug in to with the original switch, all lights were cold and still are, with the new switch.

I'll try grounding better to see if I get varied results and will check the other switch options too. Thanks!!
 
I was digging around after seeing that wiring diagram (thank you!!) indicating there are grounds at each headlight and found a pretty nasty ground connection on the driver's side. After wiggling it I no longer have left directionals or running lights. I'm planning on cleaning that up tonight. I'll report back soon.
 
Well that didn't do it. I definately believe it's a ground issue though, and will continue hunting. I think the switch is fine, as it still turns on the rear running lights in both positions (halfway and fully extended).
 
you should be able to insert a probe from a voltmeter or test light into the headlight socket with the switch on and ground the other probe to the engine to determine if you have power going to the socket
 
I had verified that there was no electricity getting to the bulbs at any point along the wires under the hood, regardless of switch (new or old).

I did find that the high beam switch wasn't functioning quite right - in the low beam only position, when the high beam path should be carrying no energy, the resistance varied by a few hundred ohms. So I stuck a piece of copper wire across the connector, and still didn't have lights.

I finally began tracing all the wires further back toward the cabin and found that at the firewall the connections were pretty weak, so I butt connectered (that's a word I promise) all of the wires, cutting the firewall passthrough out of the equation. After that I have headlights!!

One thing to note if anyone ever does the jumper wire trick, the high beams demand seriously high power and that jumper will get very hot. I just left it in the low beam path and it works fine, but I have no high beams. I've got a new switch on order and plan on changing to LED bulbs, which should draw significantly less current.

Thanks for your help.
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