I posted a question about this the other day and no one answered. As I have been working with the car, the problem has actually gotten slightly better, but still seems to be there.
So far the car has new:
spark plugs (July 4) ($8)
spark plug wires (July 25) ($25)
throttle position sensor (Aug 9) ($23)
oxygen sensor (Aug 10) ($21)
- probably the only thing that didnt NEED to be replaced was the spark plugs
I cleaned the:
idle air control valve (Aug 8)
throttle body injector (Aug 8)
These parts appear to be functioning well:
Map sensor
idle air control valve
throttle body injector
The car is not overheating (needle stays at (or just above) line between 100 and 220. However, when car reaches this temp, it stalls at intersections/slow turns or hesitates when pulling away from them.
At one point I received trouble codes 33 and 34 - which led me to test the MAP sensor, which tested well according to procedure outlined in my Haynes manual. 33 is because the vacuum line to the MAP sensor was off when I started my car (oops). 34 i dont know why, but it hasn't come back since clearing the codes.
Performance is improved. Car no longer noticeably misfires or backfires (it did both at one time). And trying to stall at intersections has improved approximately 25%.
The car goes to the mechanic on Thursday. I just really want to fix my car, but even more than that, I want to know what is wrong with her.
Any ideas?
So far the car has new:
spark plugs (July 4) ($8)
spark plug wires (July 25) ($25)
throttle position sensor (Aug 9) ($23)
oxygen sensor (Aug 10) ($21)
- probably the only thing that didnt NEED to be replaced was the spark plugs
I cleaned the:
idle air control valve (Aug 8)
throttle body injector (Aug 8)
These parts appear to be functioning well:
Map sensor
idle air control valve
throttle body injector
The car is not overheating (needle stays at (or just above) line between 100 and 220. However, when car reaches this temp, it stalls at intersections/slow turns or hesitates when pulling away from them.
At one point I received trouble codes 33 and 34 - which led me to test the MAP sensor, which tested well according to procedure outlined in my Haynes manual. 33 is because the vacuum line to the MAP sensor was off when I started my car (oops). 34 i dont know why, but it hasn't come back since clearing the codes.
Performance is improved. Car no longer noticeably misfires or backfires (it did both at one time). And trying to stall at intersections has improved approximately 25%.
The car goes to the mechanic on Thursday. I just really want to fix my car, but even more than that, I want to know what is wrong with her.
Any ideas?