1992 Sunbird 2.0-Shuddering/stalling when accelerating.

[Dezzy14]

Hello,

So I'm new to this whole Pontiac thing, as I just recently purchased a 92 Sunbird. Also, I'm not a mechanic chick by any means, but I can do most of the basic tune up/replace smaller parts..etc.

The car is in great condition, but had been sitting for about 2 months before I bought it. Its 2.0L, with only 128k original miles (so they say...).
The problem is that *sometimes* when I first start to give it gas, it shudders and sputters (as if its not getting enough gas), but - after about..10 seconds or so - it picks up and acellerates like it should. It tends to do this when I'm trying to get up to speed to get on the freeway, giving it more gas than would normally be required just driving through town.

I'm going to replace the fuel filter, plugs and air filter tomorrow...gave it an oil change last week..all that good 'tune up' stuff. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas if this doesn't work?

Like I said, I'm no mechanic, so please don't make fun of me for my seemingly ignorant question! Anything help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[melsg5]

at that mileage and age replace the plugs wires too and try some fuel injector cleaner in the tank

 

[farmer12]

I would do what he said... BG 44k is the best stuff to use for cleaning injectors, yep its purdy expensive (like 22bucks) but its worth the money.

Could be a throttle position sensor....I'm guessing the check engine light isnt on...but that doesnt mean there isnt any code on the computer. I've got a 92 as well and I had 7 sensor codes without a light on. Take it to a parts store and they can check for trouble codes...usually for free.

128k isnt to bad for that car, I've got 203k on mine and its still runnin strong.

 

[Loonerone]

Hello Dezzy14 and WELCOME TO PONTIAC FORUMS!!
Not everyone knows everything as such is Impossible with our finite Minds.
Only the Gods know for sure and as yet they're not auditory, so no worries Mate.

It may well BE the Injectors as EVERYTHING mechanical breaks down at some point.
I've a '93 Sunbird LE w/2.0 and Auto. Trans. with 168500 ticks on the clock and have been recently experiencing the stuttering/shuddering when after starting. It usually takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes to even out regardless of Engine being cold or at normal operating temp.
The other evening it was stumbling from 35-65mph(104.60kph) and when attempting to increase to 70(112.65kph) and when ascending hills.

I'm gonna do a Resistance test 4/4/10 on the Injectors as well as a Cylinders Compression check.
If the Ohms test reveals low numbers then new or preferably rebuilt Injectors will be needed, however if the Compression checks reveal low numbers or lower than the lowest acceptable, replaced Injectors willn't make any difference and a Top End job may well be required or the Vehicle scrapped for another set of problems in a different package or I'll just drive the troubled car till it blows up or seizes which willn't be very long and probably in Traffic at a Light.
It's been running a bit hotter than it ever has been and seems to be using Coolant more than before and it's NOT outward leaking nor has it appeared in the oil, as yet. The Coolant does not look oily, so go figure.
It has also recently had a new Timing Belt installed and new Drive Belt Tensioner and looking back, it appears the problems STARTED a bit AFTER the Timing Belt work, so hmmmm.
There's a 12 month guarantee as stated on the receipt and the job was done 2/8/10, so hmmmm.

I've also learned today at another automotive site that my problems could well be:
Leaky Valve Seals/Guides, Leaky Piston Rings, Vacuum Leaks**, Leaking or Faulty EGR Valve, Leaking or Faulty Sensors** because all Sensors have Electrical Connections, Bad/Defective Relays**, Faulty Ignition Wires** and/or Plugs**, Faulty Coil, Improper Plug Gap and/or improper Plugs Heat Range. Compression problems naturally due to the first 2 items as listed.
**I've replaced these; All NEW Vacuum Lines, Plugs, Ignition Wires, I.A.C. (at Throttle Body), T.P.S., M.A.P., EGR Vacuum Solenoid with brief improvement to effect ZERO improvement. New Coolant/Temperature Sensor, Coolant Fan Relay, Coolant Fan Motor**.
I've also run some decent Fuel Injector Cleaner and it made NO DIFFERENCE.

I'll get back to ya.
Thank you for your time.
---
Update, 4/4/10:
Did a Compression check and seems all Cylinders are about the same at 13-13.5 kph., or 180-190psi.
Fired up Engine to operating temp, all plugs then pulled, install tester, Throttle wide open, cranked for about 4 seconds, did 2 tests per Cylinder.
Longer cranking results in lower Compression readings of about 150psi and the Minimum acceptable as stated in a Repair Manual is 100.
I rule out Compression as a problem therefore despite whether Rings and/or Valves are questionable, they're not an issue at this time.
>>Cannot access Injectors without what appears as complete removal of Fuel Rail which I cannot nor shall I attempt to accomplish in a Condominium parking lot<<
Suggestions greatly appreciated other than take the car to a shop.
Thank you for your time.

______________________________

 

[Loonerone]

Blown Head Gasket and/or cracked Cylinder Head.
Explains the rapid loss of Coolant AND why it barely runs. Eventual seizure if run in current condition.
Quoted fix at a bit over $1400.00 however with other as well parts need, amount goes to $1700.00+.
May well be cheaper to fix than replacing car therein avoiding other problems with new package on 4 wheels.
Seems cheap ($250-$1000) cars are not anymore readily available as the cheap average appears to be $1200.

 

[bigclubs]

New to this site, have owned a 91 sunbird LE Convertable with 196,000 miles for the past 5 years. Since this is a pre 96 model, its equiped with OBD1 and most auto parts stores, I have found do not have the connector for OBD1 and only will check the newer OBD2. I had to check my codes the old fashion way jumping the plug connector and count the flashes on the dash.