Breaker bar after PB Blaster finally got them out
Used PB Blaster and let set for hours. Problem is that little or none actually seeped into the bolts under the bushing mounting clamps. Used a air ratchet.
No go as it only applies about 45 ft/lbs of torque. Tried a air impact hammer and got same result, bolts would not turn. Then rigged a breaker bar (1/2" socket) with a reducer and then a 15mm 6 point socket. One bolt broke loose.
More PB blaster and 2 more bolts were moving. Last bolt finally moved a little.
Used air ratchet to remove first 3 bolts. It hung up on the 4th. The last bolt moved up the threads and then got very tight. Had to use a hand ratchet to get the bolt out. Threads on this bolt rusted worse than the others.
End links were a real picnic. Broke the bolt in the middle on the link with the broken bar end. Bolt would not move thru the rest of the bushings as it was rusted at the bottom as well. Had to use a sawzall and metal cutting blade to cut the bolt near the bottom of the link. The other side was worse. Had to use sawzall 2 times to cut the link bolt under the sway bar and near the bottom over the hole in the lower control arm. Pulled out the bar and as it was getting dark quit for the night.
Got a Dorman bar at Advance Auto. With a discount code you can get a bar paying online and save $40. Dorman bar is solid and much sturdier and heavier than the OEM GM hollow bar. It comes with endlinks, bushings and new bushing clamps and 4 bushing bolts. Used all but the new bolts. Cleaned up old bolts and painted with Rustoleum silver paint. Old bolts have non-threaded 1/4" guide so you can get bolts into frame threads and not crossthread them. Used the Youtube video by A1Auto as a guide to reinstall the bar. Had to put jacks under the lower control arms to allow all the car weight to be on the suspension then slightly install bushing bolts (only a few turns not tight) then end links and tighten them fully to make sure they are straight and not interfering with the tie rod ends. After tightening the end links tightened the bushing clamps fully. I wrapped the areas under the bushings with about 3 layers of teflon plumbers tape to prevent squeaking. Better than grease and works good on rubber or poly bushings.
Finished the job and remounted wheels and gave it a trial drive.
Seems good as no more thumping noises from the suspension.
The new bars will probably outlast the Montana. Once doing this job was enough.
