2.5 help please

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Dmitchell80

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Hello all, my name is Dustin. I’m new here. I recently purchased a 1985 Fiero that was not running. It had been sitting in a carport for over 10 years. I’ got it towed home, pulled plugs and put some oil down and got it to rotate by hand. After replacing plugs, wires, fuel pump, cleaned fuel tank, new injector, distributor comes and coil. I got it to run and idle nice. However when I’d try to drive it starts sputtering and then dies, then won’t even idle nice. Timing jumps around by about 6 degrees. The clutch doesn’t disengage fully, new master and slave. I’ve pulled the engine to replace clutch and give everything a once over. Sorry for the long winded post. My questions are
With the engine out already what should I be doing such as new rings etc?
What could be causing it to run good one minute, then zero power and rough running the next?
Clutch line was rotted through under car, so I temporarily patched with copper line, but how should I properly patch it?
I broke the e-brake adjusting bolt and can’t seem to source a new one?
Any help would be great
Thanks
 
can you do a compression test?
how many miles on the engine?
are you willing to replace the timing chain?
 
130,000 km
Compression tested ok before I pulled it 140,130,128,138
I don’t believe there is a timing chain pretty sure it’s just gears
Had code 44 lean exhaust
Code 35 idle air control
I’m willing to do any work needed
I have new MAP sensor, TPS, new timing gears, full gasket kit
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you are correct about no timing chain but read the comment about the gears, good to see you are replacing them.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Duke_engine
the 35 code points to the idle air control or throttle body having deposits.
the 44 code points to a vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor.
that 128 reading just barely squeeks by, 126 would be a problem based on the 10% rule using the 140 high reading.
 
Should I be replacing rings or pistons/rings while engine is out with those compression readings? I’d rather do everything right the first time. I did notice some cracks in vacuum lines will replace those upon reinstall.
 
You or a machine shop have to meausre the bores and check the pistons in order to determine what needs to be done. If you going that route you also have to have the crank and rods checked.
 
3rd and 4th gen Iron Dukes are famous for piston slap and weak rods. Really only good for daily driver engines also.

I would rebuild the motor since you have it out.

Doug in P.R. ( 30 years Iron Duke racing experience):)
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It’s coming apart now, a lot of cleaning to do. Head gasket looked to be shot
 
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