2002 headlights flicker when start, no DRL

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2002sunfir3

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Hi all,
First post, glad to see there's a forum here for the sunfire.

In any case I was looking for some help with a problem with the car.
I got an 2002 sunfire which when I start the headights flicker 4-5 times and then just turn off and the service light sign comes on. The daytime running lights don't work. Also the high beams don't work as well.

I can avoid the flicker but just turning on the headlights all the way and have been driving with the lights on. But I'd like to fix this.

I tried replacing the headlight bulbs to no success, still has the same problem.

Also a few days ago the wipers stopped working, but just started to work after a day again, and turning on the lights triggers the automatic door locks.

I'm not sure if there's some crossed wires, or a bad ground that's doing this,
I'm not exactly a mechanic, but I have some tools and can undo bolts like replacing the headlights.

I'm wondering what would cause this?
Is there something wrong with either a fuse? Daytime running sensor? crossed or corroded wires? bad ground?

Has anyone ran into this problem and what should I do to fix this?
If you can be detailed in your response since I'm pretty much a newbie mechanic.

Also read somewhere online that the flickering and service light could mean there's something wrong with a piston or maybe I have to change the spark plugs? I replaced the spark plugs at 150 000k and it's sitting at 190 000k now.

Thanks would appreciate any info/suggestions and or DIY help guides.
 
get the code read at autozone
have you checked the battery connections?
have you looked at the fuse boxes for any signs of corrosion?
 
Thanks for the quick response.

I'm in Ontario Canada. I don't think they got an autozone here but there's some small time shops I'll find one that can read the code hopefully tomorrow morning but was hoping to put that labor cost into parts and DIY.

The battery connections look a bit corroded on the negative terminal. Should I disconnect the terminals and clean the corrosion with something?

Was also wondering if I should use a volt meter to check the 3 pins that attach the headlights to see if they're reading at the proper output, but wasn't sure what voltage each pin should be at.

The fuse box is located inside the car beside under the steering wheel on the left side? I couldn't find which fuse code and position relates to daytime running lights by looking at the legend by on the fuse door handle.
I was thinking it might be a bad fuse, but the regular lights still work when turned on.
 
2002sunfir3 said:
Thanks for the quick response.

I'm in Ontario Canada. I don't think they got an autozone here but there's some small time shops I'll find one that can read the code hopefully tomorrow morning but was hoping to put that labor cost into parts and DIY.

The battery connections look a bit corroded on the negative terminal. Should I disconnect the terminals and clean the corrosion with something?

Was also wondering if I should use a volt meter to check the 3 pins that attach the headlights to see if they're reading at the proper output, but wasn't sure what voltage each pin should be at.

The fuse box is located inside the car beside under the steering wheel on the left side? I couldn't find which fuse code and position relates to daytime running lights by looking at the legend by on the fuse door handle.
I was thinking it might be a bad fuse, but the regular lights still work when turned on.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure there is a fuse for the drl's, there could be but I do know there is a relay. it's located in the fuse box on the left side of the dash, it's the only relay in there.

And yes you should clean the battery terminals. Any auto parts store will sell a kit for it, it includes terminal protectors, a couple sprays, and a wire brush.

As far as the codes go, do you have any other auto parts stores up there that will let you borrow an OBD2 scanner?
______________________________
 
Found the DRL relay in the fuse box. Changed that with no luck.

Probably just a corroded wire ruining the circuit. Bought a crimmper/cutter to start replacing wires tomorrow if it stops snowing. I noticed there a group of wires going to each light what looks like 4 individuals per plastic wrapped line.

Would it better for the long run to just rewire the group of 4 per entire sections rather then butt joining corroded sections?

Looks like some sections of wires are behind the wheel well and under the engine almost. Do I need to take apart panels / take off wheels to get to all the wiring properly? If so how do you take off the outside panels of the car?

Probably related corroded wires the reverse white lights don't work either. Wondering how to take out rear blubs on the bottom?

Also if I wanted to re-wire how do I connect to the blub housing terminal of each light?


Side note : Going to clean the terminal with some baking soda water.
and unrelated side jobs which havn't been bought from last owner looking to do shortly

Brake Fluid Flush / Replacement
Coolant Replacement / Flush
Differential Fluid Replacement - Rear
Fuel Filter Change
Transmission Fluid Change
Spark Plug Replacement / with wires
Transfer Case Fluid Replacement

Any general thoughts of any of those jobs would be appreciated as well.
 
Before rewiring everything have you checked with a voltmeter and ohm meter?
There is no rear differential or transfer case on this car.
Dont forget to change the transmission filter.
 
melsg5 said:
Before rewiring everything have you checked with a voltmeter and ohm meter?
There is no rear differential or transfer case on this car.
Dont forget to change the transmission filter.
Click to expand...


I'll go get one. Should I just use it on the pin connections of the lamp housings to see where the bad line is?

How much volts should be coming through them.
______________________________
 
you should get the same reading as your battery, a little more than 12 volts
 
well thought I would update the thread, took it to an electrician who charged me 50 bucks. felt kinda defeated but at least I got to see how easy it was to find. There were 3 corroded wire spots, one behind the driver headlight, and two behind the passenger headlights. he unwound the tape that holds the wires for each blub socket and pulled at each wire from two ends until the corroded wires just gave out, they were pretty easy to find that way. butt joined them, and it was good to go. the flashing light problem went away after that.

Also added a manga flow muffler to the car, sounds pretty good from the outside, still pretty loud inside the car.

Changed the spark plugs, and wires, fuel filter and air filter for good measure.
 
glad to hear you got it resolved and believe me $50 is a very good price.
 
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