2003 GT Wheel Noise

Phrozen

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Hey everyone,

I recently purchased a used 2003 Pontiac Sunfire GT 2.2L a month ago from a person who was the original owner. It currently has 134,000 km (83,000 miles). I have noticed lately a clicking sound while driving coming from what I believe to be the front driver side wheel.

I notice this noise most while driving at lower speeds, 20-50 km/h. At extremely low speeds <10km/h, it seems to disappear almost completely. While driving at fast speeds, I can hear the clicking sound but extremely faintly. A passenger in my car could not hear this sound with the windows open, but could at lower speeds.

This sound does not happen any more loudly while turning, and seems to become extremely faint or non-existent while braking. This leads me to believe it could be something as simple as a loose brake pad that is rubbing or moving back and forth. Sometimes this clicking sounds almost like a squeaking noise somewhat, which also would have me thinking brake pads.

I have been reading up on this issue online and found several different possibilities, some being: Engine motor mounts - steering shafts - a loose hubcap (I inspected and did not find them to be too loose) or even a rock lodged somewhere.

It came certified/saftied. The previous owner had the normal safety done and had the control arm bushings and linkages replaced at the time of my purchase.

It looks as though someone else has posted here about the same problem but did not receive an answer: My initial thoughts are brake pads, wheel bearings or maybe even CV joints?

Any shared information or previous experiences with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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You appear to be already aware of all the possbilities from a rock stuck in the tire to a CV joint. So what have you done to find the cause? Have you jacked up the car and spun the tire around to look for a rock, the easiest of the possibilites to remove from the list? As you noted if it's brake related you should hear it stop when you step on the brake. I believe a good test for CV joint is a large open area, parking lot, crank the wheel hard one direction and drive in a circle then repeat the same process driving the other direction and note if there is a change in the noise.
 
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Thanks for the reply, melsg5.

I'm thinking soon I will try jacking up the car and having a look to see if I can find any rocks lodged anywhere.

Good tip on the driving in a hard circle. I will give that a try and report back here with what I find.

If I were to jack up the car and look for a bad CV joint, am I mainly just looking for cracking on the inner and outer boot? Is there anything else I can do to give it a quick test?

I do not have my own garage here alas, I was just wondering some better possibilities to tell the mechanics to look for if I brought it in for an inspection and repair. Looks like I've thought of most of the possibilities anyways.

Thanks again.
 
a crack in the boot doesnt mean the CV is bad, just that you need a new boot. I would try that tight turning test I mentioned above to actually verify the CV. If you are using a skilled mechanic just telling him the symptoms should be sufficient.
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Just wanted to report back in with the results of my tight turning test.

I made about 5 passes both left and right with the wheel cranked as far as it would go to either side, going at different speeds from very slow to as fast as possible while remaining safe.

I did not hear any clicking or other noises while doing this. This leads me to believe that the problem lies outside of the CV joints. I am surely not ruling them out, but this gives me a better idea.

Also noteworthy, I noticed today that the clicking sound was accompanied by a now squeaking noise. Would this be indicative of a bad wheel bearing? If bearings were in fact the problem, approximately how much would this cost to repair in a garage and how much for parts alone if I were to do it myself? I have also heard that it is best to replace in pairs if this is the case, is this true?

This is all speculation at this point. I intend on having a mechanic overlook my car very soon. Apart from brakes, CV joints, and wheel bearings, should there be anything else I should specifically ask them to inspect more thoroughly? Steering linkages? Motor mounts? I should have the problem pinpointed by then, at which time I will report back with what is found.

Thanks again.
 
The parts are really dependant on location for price . I can get them from $68 to $150 depending on supposite quality differences and love of the vehicle , lol .

They should be replaced in pairs , only reason is because the other is typically not too far behind .

After just finishing replacing my rotors today , bearings being the next step , I would guess the garage "shop time" to be approx 1.5-2 hours .
 
I just replaced my Hubs and Bearings a couple weeks ago on my Sunfire. For the Hubs and Bearings assembly it only cost me about 30-31 each.

I bought them either on Amazon.com or Jcwhitney.com, can't remember.
 
Just wanted to report back in with the results of my tight turning test.

I made about 5 passes both left and right with the wheel cranked as far as it would go to either side, going at different speeds from very slow to as fast as possible while remaining safe.

I did not hear any clicking or other noises while doing this. This leads me to believe that the problem lies outside of the CV joints. I am surely not ruling them out, but this gives me a better idea.

Also noteworthy, I noticed today that the clicking sound was accompanied by a now squeaking noise. Would this be indicative of a bad wheel bearing? If bearings were in fact the problem, approximately how much would this cost to repair in a garage and how much for parts alone if I were to do it myself? I have also heard that it is best to replace in pairs if this is the case, is this true?

This is all speculation at this point. I intend on having a mechanic overlook my car very soon. Apart from brakes, CV joints, and wheel bearings, should there be anything else I should specifically ask them to inspect more thoroughly? Steering linkages? Motor mounts? I should have the problem pinpointed by then, at which time I will report back with what is found.

Thanks again.

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/595689-taper-bearing-set-by-national-part-a-35.html#fragment-1
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