95 sunfire fuel pump issue????

[PatriotAmerican]

I just bought a 95 sunfire with the 2.2 engine. It was originally brought to me by a co-worker to see if I could fix it, I then decided to purchase it from him. The symptoms h described before bringing it over were extremely long cranking time and stumbling until it warmed up. I haven't really messed with it much other that to determine that the battery was discharged and it has a voltage drain. When I put a known good battery in it, it fired up with minimal effort and I drove it down to the end of our road and back. The test drive revealed a bad wheel bearing and a distinct odor like the cat was clogged. I noticed upon returning that when initially engaging the ignition that the fuel pump comes on to prime the system yet never cuts off. I know it is to be constant when the engine is running, but this one is continuous without starting the engine. I haven't dug into it yet, just wondering if anyone else has run into this and can give me a definite answer. I do know that my co-worker had someone work on it previously who replaced the fuel pump, (maybe miswired?), replaced map sensor, ICM, tune up, coils, and it appears he cut the fusible link to the starter out and just straight wired it. I'm also wondering if the fuel pump always running has maybe flooded the engine to the point of clogging the cat? or maybe O2 is bad causing cat problems? Any ideas?

 

[melsg5]

Do you have a check engine light on? Have you checked the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator for gas, if present replace the regulator.

 

[Zimgxp]

Check the fuel pump relay. The pump running all the time will not flood the engine, unless you have a leaky injector.

 

[PatriotAmerican]

still at it

I figured out why the fuel pump is always on. there is a wire tapped into the grey wire at the pump and running up to the fuse box.I have replaced the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch since I know that the pump will not operate if it is faulty. I'm now testing the coolant temp. switch because the schematics show that these three share a common wire. Is there anything else I should look into? I'm getting no voltage to the pump unless the spliced in wire is connected. This is a really clean, low-mileage vehicle I really don't believe it is any where near ready for the scrap yard. From looking at the wiring schematic all I see around the fuel pump is the OPS and CTS beyond that is the PCM.....Really hoping that isn't it, but how do I test it to see? Something else that has me scratching my head, even with the fuel pump straight wired it takes forever to start initially, like it is losing prime. After it starts and runs for a few min. it will fire right back up, but if it sits for a while it takes a bit, a shot of ether in the intake hose fires it up immediately. I pulled the vacuum line from the regulator and saw no gas coming out while it ran. This car has no schrader valve to connect my guage to so I assume I'll have to splice it in to check pressure.Any Ideas on what could be going on here? Also it is a 1995 vehicle but has an OBDII connector, I read somewhere about an OBD1 1/2? is this legit? My scanner will not connect to this vehicle.

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[melsg5]

Concerning you scanner, check if the cigarette lighter fuse is blow.
Concerning testing relay look at the post from 1/14/2008 on this link concerning checking the relay for power

http://www.batauto.com/Forums/index.php?action=printpage;topic=5145.0

 

[Zimgxp]

'95 was the switchover year for obd I to obd II. Some cars have the obd II plug, but are obd I

 

[PatriotAmerican]

how then?

if these vehicles are OBD1 yet have the OBD2 connector, how do you get the codes, I cannot determine which pins to jump with a paperclip and a scanner says no link.