98 Trans Am Break Issue - No ABS/Brake peddle goes to the...

[skippy]

...floor.? Ok so i replaced my front brake pads on my 98 trans am. I did not undo the brake lines. Using a c-clap & and an old brake pad, I slowly pushed both pistons back into the caliper. I did that for both sides. With the engine off the brake peddle gets hard to push in after a couple of pushes. However with the engine running, I can easily push the peddle down the to the floor if I choose to do so. Is this what happens when the ABS get out of sinc? How do I resolve this issue? This was my first time out so the more detail you can give me the better. I have a feeling I’ll need to bleed the brakes. If so any pointers on that would be helpful as well.

Thanks.

 

[John N]

the 98s should have had wheel brakeing,, yes you need to bleed the brakes,, I use a c clamp as well but did you not open the line up when you pressed the piston back into the caliper...My abs light stays on, I dont like abs anyway,, when i want to stop in a hurray they are worthless.. ive had the peddle kick back up when i slammed on it prior to an accident,,, i dont like them,,, Try bleedin all of them but you get someone in the car and hold it down and bleed and its really a pain doing all four vs the old 2

 

[Feels]

Replacing brake pad does not touch ABS system, which is the sensor in this case. It is fine to use C-clamp to push the piston back in order to install new brake pad. It is recommended to bleed the brake, but if you feel the brake is as good as before, then it is not require.

Following video will show you how to bleed it
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/17421_brake-fluid-change-bleed-two.htm

 

[wde3477]

The brake pedal should get difficult to push with the engine off, as the vacuum reservoir is depleted and the power boost feature fades.

Should not have to bleed the brakes if the hydraulic system was not opened up. However, given the age of your vehicle, it's not a bad idea to change the brake fluid anyway.

There are one-man bleeder kits available for about $10 - makes things go a lot easier. Or you can splurge and get the power bleeder, but looking at quite a bit more $$. Or the 'friend' system works too, just takes a bit of coordination and synchronization.

The brake pedal should not go to the floor, suggest you've either got air in the system somehow, that something is not adjusted or installed right - a real problem with installing new linings on drum brakes, discs should auto-adjust after a few cycles - or that you have another component failure such as a master cylinder bypassing/leaking.

Also, inspect your calipers - many times after pads are installed, leaks will develop if the piston dust seal has failed and the piston walls rust - eats the seals up when the pistons are pushed back in for installing the new pads.

If you elect to bleed all brakes, probably will take upward of two quarts of fluid to be sure that all the air is out and the old brake fluid is suitably flushed out. The right-rear is the first one to start with and generally takes the most effort to get all the air out.