C1232 and vibration on right turn and high speeds
- Thread starter dcapper
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Since I can get the part today, I'm going to get the one from Advance Auto. Only problem is they don't have the greatest ratings. What's your opinion? Also do I replace the oil seal with it?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...dSearch=167698&searchTerm=ncv10235&showTitle=
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...dSearch=167698&searchTerm=ncv10235&showTitle=
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EaOutlaw
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look at Napa the new not rebuilt axle is well under 100 dollars yes replace the seal while your in there.
I have purchased from advanced with no problems but get a new part if possible from them as well.
It is a fairly easy job, but one you do not want to do twice for no reason except to save a few bucks.
I have purchased from advanced with no problems but get a new part if possible from them as well.
It is a fairly easy job, but one you do not want to do twice for no reason except to save a few bucks.
Thanks again. Do I need any special tools to remove the seal?
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EaOutlaw
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I use a small drill bit and carefully drill a hole on the middle of the metal ring, being careful not to drill too deep then screw in a sheet metal or drywall screw and use a pair of side cutters to pry out the seal.
you may have to use two screws and two holes to work the seal out if it has a deep retaining lip.
you can use a small deep socket to limit the drill bit depth.
you may have to use two screws and two holes to work the seal out if it has a deep retaining lip.
you can use a small deep socket to limit the drill bit depth.
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EaOutlaw
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changing the seal now while the axle is out is the best idea, The seal will be worn and may not mate up to your new axle properly.
The method in this video shows the basic idea, I just do not like to use the screw to push the seal out potentially scaring whatever is behind the seal.
Grinding the tip of the seal flat is a good idea so you can get deep enough to get a good bite on the seal.
I have removed countless seals with this method with not one single issue.
Yet if your not comfortable doing this job leave it alone, just make sure to coat the sealing surface of the new cv joint with a thin coating of grease.
it is always harder to get the new seal in then to take the old one out. you would want the proper tool to hammer the seal in with never strike the new seal with a hammer trying to pound it back in because you could damage the new seal.
If you have never changed a axle before you will need a good pry bar possibly two, to quickly pop the inner cv joint off the output shaft.
the cv joint is held on with a spring loaded clip either on the axle or on the output shaft sometimes they just pop right out other times they can be a complete nightmare.
Make sure the car is jacked up high enough on jack stands to get good leverage while tugging on the axle.
I have been lucky countless times and got away with using the axle and CV joint like a slide hammer while quickly prying with one pry bar and easily popped the axle out. yet each time this worked it was with intact inner cv joint.
A worn inner cv joint may just pull out of the housing especially if the boot is soft and worn. the only thing keeping the entire inner joint from pulling out of the housing and taking the boot with it is the condition of the boot and how well the clamp is holding the inner boot on the housing.
Since we know it spit out the grease, the grease will lubricate the boot and may easily slip away from the housing, so its best to use two pry bars one on each side of the inner cv joint where you get good leverage and give the bars a quick yet strong snap to pop the joint past the spring clip locking grove.
before trying to remove the splined hub away from the outer joint soak the splines down with PB blaster or WD-40.
https://youtu.be/ri8xnBnF4yk
If you need any other help just let us know.
The method in this video shows the basic idea, I just do not like to use the screw to push the seal out potentially scaring whatever is behind the seal.
Grinding the tip of the seal flat is a good idea so you can get deep enough to get a good bite on the seal.
I have removed countless seals with this method with not one single issue.
Yet if your not comfortable doing this job leave it alone, just make sure to coat the sealing surface of the new cv joint with a thin coating of grease.
it is always harder to get the new seal in then to take the old one out. you would want the proper tool to hammer the seal in with never strike the new seal with a hammer trying to pound it back in because you could damage the new seal.
If you have never changed a axle before you will need a good pry bar possibly two, to quickly pop the inner cv joint off the output shaft.
the cv joint is held on with a spring loaded clip either on the axle or on the output shaft sometimes they just pop right out other times they can be a complete nightmare.
Make sure the car is jacked up high enough on jack stands to get good leverage while tugging on the axle.
I have been lucky countless times and got away with using the axle and CV joint like a slide hammer while quickly prying with one pry bar and easily popped the axle out. yet each time this worked it was with intact inner cv joint.
A worn inner cv joint may just pull out of the housing especially if the boot is soft and worn. the only thing keeping the entire inner joint from pulling out of the housing and taking the boot with it is the condition of the boot and how well the clamp is holding the inner boot on the housing.
Since we know it spit out the grease, the grease will lubricate the boot and may easily slip away from the housing, so its best to use two pry bars one on each side of the inner cv joint where you get good leverage and give the bars a quick yet strong snap to pop the joint past the spring clip locking grove.
before trying to remove the splined hub away from the outer joint soak the splines down with PB blaster or WD-40.
https://youtu.be/ri8xnBnF4yk
If you need any other help just let us know.
What a great video. I guess I should have bought the seal when I picked up the axle. I can go back in the am to the Advance to get one. I'll let you know how I make out tomorrow. I really appreciate all the help you've given.
Oh I forgot to ask. Once I pull the seal, how much fluid comes out? Should I have a gallon jug ready to refill?
Oh I forgot to ask. Once I pull the seal, how much fluid comes out? Should I have a gallon jug ready to refill?
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EaOutlaw
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I am not sure how much you will lose, it has been way too long for me to remember,
however I would think you wouldn't lose too much. just enough to make a mess of your floor if you do not have a pan to catch the drippings.
but if it is only your only transportation buy extra just in case. you will use it one day.
however I would think you wouldn't lose too much. just enough to make a mess of your floor if you do not have a pan to catch the drippings.
but if it is only your only transportation buy extra just in case. you will use it one day.
EaOutlaw
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That is what I was warning you about, you will nee two pry bars that are the same size positioned opposite of each other then give the pry bars a good quick snap to free the cv joint
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EaOutlaw
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If you have a welder and a slide hammer you could weld a plate with a hole in the middle across what is left of the joint and use the slide hammer to knock it out.
The key part to removing it is to keep the joint straight if it leans to one side it will not come out.
The key part to removing it is to keep the joint straight if it leans to one side it will not come out.
EaOutlaw
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You can do anything you want, however first clean up the remaining grease rust and grime and inspect this housing, you will need a new clamp if the part is not too worn.
It is best to get the old joint out. But since your at home with limited resources do what you think is appropriate.
if you do transfer over the tri pod joint Make sure the boot is perfectly clean along with the clamping surface, you do not want the new boot just to slip off while driving.
After you get the old part cleaned up take pictures of the inner bore of the old joint housing stuck in the trans if your unsure of the condition and post them.
again it is best to remove the old housing and do the job right but I imagine your not the first person to do this.
To get a new clamp you will need to buy a new boot kit. do not try and reuse the old clamp from the new axle. you will also need a CV boot strap clamping tool, sometimes you can use a pair of side cutters and a ball pen hammer yet the tool is the best way to go.
The new boot kit will come with a bag of grease which is good because transferring the tripod you will leave grease in the new housing your not using.
Remember to burp the air from the cv joint after it is installed, this is done by the putting a small screw driver in the small side of the boot sealing surface and allowing the trapped air to escape.
This means you will need the second smaller strap from a boot kit as well.
It is best to get the old joint out. But since your at home with limited resources do what you think is appropriate.
if you do transfer over the tri pod joint Make sure the boot is perfectly clean along with the clamping surface, you do not want the new boot just to slip off while driving.
After you get the old part cleaned up take pictures of the inner bore of the old joint housing stuck in the trans if your unsure of the condition and post them.
again it is best to remove the old housing and do the job right but I imagine your not the first person to do this.
To get a new clamp you will need to buy a new boot kit. do not try and reuse the old clamp from the new axle. you will also need a CV boot strap clamping tool, sometimes you can use a pair of side cutters and a ball pen hammer yet the tool is the best way to go.
The new boot kit will come with a bag of grease which is good because transferring the tripod you will leave grease in the new housing your not using.
Remember to burp the air from the cv joint after it is installed, this is done by the putting a small screw driver in the small side of the boot sealing surface and allowing the trapped air to escape.
This means you will need the second smaller strap from a boot kit as well.
I'd still rather get it out. But that's a last resort. Do you think this kit would help?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...OR+9150008+OR+9150006+OR+9150043&showTitle=no
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...OR+9150008+OR+9150006+OR+9150043&showTitle=no
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EaOutlaw
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this kit could work great if you could attach it securely, you would need to remove the strut assembly and hub to make room for it.
This is why I suggested welding a plate but you could use a chain, if you do not have a welder you could drill two holes through the side of the housing to bolt down the chain.
this should work yet once the holes are drilled your committed to getting it out.
I have no reason to suspect you couldn't get it out as long as the cv joint housing stays aligned with the splined shaft it should come out with a quick sharp hard slap from the slide hammer.
This is why I suggested welding a plate but you could use a chain, if you do not have a welder you could drill two holes through the side of the housing to bolt down the chain.
this should work yet once the holes are drilled your committed to getting it out.
I have no reason to suspect you couldn't get it out as long as the cv joint housing stays aligned with the splined shaft it should come out with a quick sharp hard slap from the slide hammer.
I saw the youvideo on drilling a hole through it. I broke 2 bits trying to. I am going to try some more. I don't need a vehicle so I can keep playing with for a few days. I got lots of food in the house. I'll live. hehe