Emergency brake

bluedemon

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Hi everyone. I have a question about my passenger side emergency brake. I just replaced the wheel hub on that side and put everything back together the way I took it apart. When I was driving I hit a hard bump and suddenly I heard a rubbing noise In the back. I took the van home and found out that I couldn't turn the tire all the way around without the tire stopping in a certain spot like someone had the brakes on. I took the 2 bolts holding the e-brake to the back of the wheel and both bolts were bent. 1 was shearing off! Did I do something wrong? I don't understand how that could happen!
 
It is hard to tell if you did anything wrong, going by your thread only.

Post some pictures of what you find once you get the vehicle apart.

I do not understand your explanation of the two bolts you backed out.

Are you talking about rear disk brakes or drum brakes.

Either way you should not have had to remove bolts to remove the drum if drum it is drum brakes.

Again post some pictures to show us what your dealing with and we can advise you from there.
 
Sorry about that! I have rear disc brakes. On the back of the wheel in order to take the hub off you have to take the (2) bolts off for the e-brake. Both bolts are the same size and length. I hit a minor bump and it felt like the air shock went thru the floor. Then it started making a grinding noise and I went home about .5 MPH! It felt like something was stopping the wheel from turning. That is when I went home and found this when I took those 2 bolts out. Why would that happen??? The other bolt wasn't as bad but it was bent on the end. As far as I'm concerned I would rather just get rid of the whole e-brake any ways.
 

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The two bolts that you removed I believe are the rear caliper bolts.

What year is your Montana. please update your signature to reflect the Pontiac or Pontiac's that you own so we do not have to search your previous post trying to find this information.

I help people on a few forums it is impossible to remember each members cars engine size transmission etc

Your signature should reflect anything you know about your cars specifics.

BTW the parking brake is a parking brake, there is no such thing as a emergency brake.

Removing or disabling the parking brake is not recommended.

I was hoping you would take pictures of your rear brake setup.

Some cars have rear brake calipers that work for the rear brakes and the parking brake all in one convenient package.

Others have rear disk calipers that only function as rear brakes the parking brakes are mini brake shoes that apply pressure to the inside of the brake rotor.

Going by memory I think you have a dual purpose rear brake calipers.

The caliper bolts that have been mangled up, Most likely happened because of loose hub bolts.

These may have came out and were bouncing around in the void where the hub mounts to the axle.

Inside this void of the brake rotor and backing plate is also where the tips of the caliper bolts are.

I am guessing you will find one or more of these bolts backed out and fell out because lock tight was not used and they were not torqued to factory specifications.

As bad as this situation is, it could have been much worse when the wheel caliper and rotor passed you on the interstate.

This should be a wake up call for you to sign up to Alldata or AutoZone's website and follow the instructions found at either of these two sites when it comes to repairing your car.

We can provide tips and tricks and on occasion some members can provide detailed wiring diagrams and procedure, yet nothing replaces the information found in a Factory service manual or Alldata diy

Anytime you repair any safety item or expensive item on your vehicle it pays to research TSBs that may be relevant to what your doing.

Even a printed service manual will not have updated TSBs yet Alldata and Mitchell one demand does.

I have worked on cars since 1985 for a living and I have subscriptions for Alldata for both my household vehicles.

I have been trained and have many years hands on experience, yet I will not work on my car doing even common work without checking the TSBs and refreshing myself with the factory service procedures before starting the work.
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Thank you for the great advise EaOutlaw! How do I update my signature? I looked under my profile but didn't see anything about updating my signature. I do have AWD and disc brakes in the back. The 2 bolts I showed you are the parking brake bolts. They hold the bracket with the spring that connects a cable to a hook on the side of the brake housing. I have figured out what I did however. I took everything apart and found out that when I put the wheel hub in I did not align it correctly. I also tightened the spindle nut before tightening the 3 bolts on the back of the hub. I was looking everywhere for a video on how to do the rear hub on a GM van that had AWD and rear disc brakes. I couldn't find anything. My Haynes manual was also pretty vague as to how to do the rear hub. I will definitely check into the Alldata because I like learning how to work on my own cars. I own 5 of them and all FORDS except this one.
I will update my "signature once I figure out how to do it. Thank you again!!
 
From the User CP ( Control Panel ) look down the list of things you can modify you will see edit signature.
 
Here is some information that can be found at AutoZone for free its source is Alldata.

It is not as extensive as Alldata yet for most common type of work it should be sufficient.

One part of this for certain models they show the hub mounting bolts need to be replaced. I didn't read enough to know if this applies to your Montana however it is a good example on the importance of reading about the procedures your doing before you do them. Some of this information can be a real life saver.

I was only able to copy and paste the data the diagrams would help make sense of this yet cannot be copied. I only showed you this data to see how helpful a free website can be. before you spend money at Alldata

Adjustment


Both front and rear wheel bearings are integral to the hub assembly and are not adjustable. If the bearings are found to be defective, the hub assembly must be replaced.

The wheel hub and bearing assembly cannot be adjusted. If runout is excessive, the hub assembly must be replaced.

Removal & Installation


Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Rear wheel
Brake drum
Bearing/hub assembly from the axle beam
Wheel speed sensor
Bearing/hub assembly


To install:

Install or connect the following:

Bearing/hub to the axle beam. Torque the bolts to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
Wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bearing/hub assembly
Brake drum
Rear wheel

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. The rear wheel hub is mounted with 4 Torx® head bolts



Independent Suspension
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel, marking the location of the wheel to the hub prior to removal. Mark the individual location of all retainers as they are removed.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Knuckle. See Steering Knuckle
Wheel bearing/hub assembly knuckle bolts
Wheel bearing/hub assembly from the knuckle

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Identifying wheel bearing/hub-to-knuckle retaining bolts



To install:

Install or connect the following:

Wheel bearing/hub assembly on to the knuckle
Bolts into the wheel bearing/hub assembly, tighten the wheel bearing/hub bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm)

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm) in a criss-cross pattern, after aligning the wheel hub with the reference mark and holes as shown in appropriate illustration.
Lower the vehicle.

With Drum Brakes
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Rear wheel
Brake drum
Bearing/hub assembly from the axle beam
Wheel speed sensor
Bearing/hub assembly


To install:

Install or connect the following:

Bearing/hub to the axle beam. Torque the bolts to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
Wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bearing/hub assembly
Brake drum
Rear wheel

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. The rear wheel hub is mounted with 4 Torx® head bolts



Without Independent Suspension
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel, marking the location of the wheel to the hub prior to removal. Mark the individual location of all retainers as they are removed.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Brake caliper
Wheel bearing/hub bolts, discard bolts
Wheel bearing/hub
Wheel speed sensor electrical connector

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Showing mounting view of rear bearing/hub assembly mounting



To install:

Install or connect the following:
CAUTION
These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.



Wheel speed sensor electrical connector
Wheel bearing/hub



NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts, tighten the bolts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
Brake caliper. See Disc Brakes

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm) in a criss-cross pattern, after aligning the wheel hub with the reference mark and holes as shown in appropriate illustration.
Lower the vehicle.
 
Thanks again EaOutlaw! As you can see I now have a "signature" so thank you for helping me with that! I will use those instructions on my other wheel hub in the front that I will have to replace. I read somewhere that someone used a wheel hub from a junk car in a junkyard. That can't be right can it? Shouldn't they be brand new?
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It is best when going through all the work to replace a hub to replace it with a new part. Yet peoples budget may make it necessary to do otherwise
 
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