First time starting up motor

1980Esprit

1980Esprit

New member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
154
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
28
Location
Virden, Manitoba, Canada
First time starting up a motor -- Poncho 406

I need some help here again, I want to know of all the things that has to be done to the motor before it can be started after an engine rebuild.

It has flat tappet cam--comp XE 262H, HEI distributor, it will have 10.2:1 comp with KB hypereutectics/aluminum heads, so I CAN NOT have any detonation or it will be the end of the motor real quick. (Will be buying 91--premium here, and getting some kind of fuel additives. Suggestions?)

Wondering about how to set timing before starting engine because it may have to be retarded a bit to reduce chances of detonation?
Can motor be in car or on stand for start up?
What gauges/sensors are need for start up?
If it starts overheating, can it be shut off?
If any problems, can it be shut off?
Any carburetor adjustments to be made? Is going to be rebuilt also, 4 bbl Rochester.
Any oil suggestions?
What are all of the steps?
What kind of decibels will be produced when operating with open headers?
Any fuel priming to be done?
Any oil priming to be done?

If anything else please tell me.

I am looking for advice so it will be done right the first time. Motor is not quite done but am looking for help sooner rather than later incase I can not find any answers. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED THANKS.
 
1. Prior to installing the distributor use an electric drill with the proper oil pump tool and spin the pump till oil comes out of the rocker arms.
2. Use an oil with a high zinc/phosporus level or you will wipe the cam . Valvoline 10W30 Racing oil in silver bottle is a good one.
3. With the engine at TDC #1 install the distributor with the rotor pointing to #1 on the cap and then advance the distributor a hair.
4. Yes you can shut off the motor.
5. Fuel additives do very little. Go to the Sunoco site and look for distributors of their racing gas that way you wont have to worry about the 91 on start up.
6. Starting up with open headers can be an issue, not just your ears and your neighbors but you wont hear if something is knocking or making other noises.
7. You do know about engine speed for break in and varying it?
8. You need to know RPM and temperature.
9. Good luck!
 
I have always been told to operate at 2200-2400 while allowing various RPM during first 25 mins. I have an oil primer tool, I was wondering about the gas though. Could I run 91 and also add an octane from them like 100 or something so it will be higher octane? I guess I will have to remove the mufflers off the car and but two reduces for the mufflers. They are megnaflow and are fairly quite. Just about stock sound. Do I need a mechanical gauge or would factory tach and oil gauge suffice?
 
You have the correct idea about rpm and tiime and you have the correct tool. Not clear on your statement about "add an octane from them like 100". If you are taking about the product with "100" in the name read the fine print on the can, you will only raise the octane a fraction of a point. Since you are not running the engine under load during breakin I would not really worry about the 91 pump gas at this time. Factory tach, water temp, and oil pressure are fine.
______________________________
 
Alright, I`m just really worried about any detonation at all because the keith black hypers do not like detonation. I`m a high school student and do not want to spend $3,000 more to get the detonation damage fixed.

I can get either 72cc (10.2:1) or 87cc (8.8:1) heads

I can acheive 442HP @ 5000, 511 TRQ @ 2500 with 10.2:1
or, 416HP @ 5000, 486 TRQ @ 2500 with 8.8:1

I am also worried that the factory radiator will not be enough to keep motor cool, it is for `80 301T.
 
I originally assumed this was a completed engine. The compression will be determined by your choice of heads and pistons. You want a compression in the range of 9.5 to 10 max. Since you have only two head choices, do you have more piston choices to bring that 10.2 down a little? Are you working with a machine shop that can offer advice? In addition are these aluminum heads or cast iron, aluminum will tolerate higher compression more than cast iron. Depending upon how many rows the radiator is it could become an issue. Ideally would be an aluminum 3 or 4 row radiator.
 
I already have the KB 133 pistons, and heads are aluminum. I have yet to buy heads though. I had got machining done from school that contacts a company. Im looking at the edelbrock heads but there are other brands with different ccs. I will check later.
 
My pistons are 6.00 cc because of valve relief. I had used compression calculator that included deck height, piston cc (whether plus or minus in cc because of dome/valve relief etc), gasket thickness, combustion chamber cc, stroke, and engine size, to get the 8.8:1

My deck is shaved 0.008, 3.75 stroke, 0.040 gasket thickness, (either 72 or 87cc heads), 6.00cc piston, if you try to use the calculator because I may be doing something wrong?


Can you feel a difference in 30HP and 30Tq ?
 
It shows a 0.039 thickness. I keep getting a ratio very close to 9. (8.99, 9.03, etc..) with a bunch of different calculators for the 87 heads from edel. I am going to be just getting the 87 heads now,
 
Last edited:
How about break in fluids though? and any settings to be done specifically for break in, or changed?
______________________________
 
How can I post pictures on this post? It show it will require a www link,
______________________________
 
nice lots of luck with the engine
 
We know a person you live about 1 block away from us and he use to have his own machine shop and what not so he is going to switch the pistons for us. He has a press and everything. He said he has a set of 350 heads from pontiac for us to use for the time being until we get money for the eddies. He rebuilt them with his shop. He knows everything there is to know about everything. He just wants $200 for the pair. Much cheaper than $2400. Unsure of what heads they are other than 350 heads. He will also clean our con rods up for us.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top