fuel pump not working... HELP PLEASE

good morning everyone...I looked for blown fuses in the fuse block under the dash..none.. there is a fuse under the hood right beside the radiator, don't know what it leads to, but one wire goes to the battery + and the other one I haven't been able to see where it goes. anyways that fuse is good..there isn't any other fuses under the hood that I can see..Like my other car there is a fuse block under the hood..

Good morning I hope your Birthday went well.
when you get a chance can you post some pictures of your car?

It would be nice to see the patient we are trying to help you with.
 
found this for a 1989 Camaro which may be similar
are you looking at the center relay of the three and does it have 5 wires?
Key off ;the orange should have 12V
Key on ; the green should have 12V for 2 sec ,
If the relay is working you should at same time have 12V out to the pump on the tan wire
If you jumper org to tan the pump should run
If you jumper org to green the relay should operate ( click ) and the pump run.
If the relay doesn't operate consider it faulty and replace it
 
here is a link to another forum that mentioned a fuse solving the guys no fuel pump issue.

melsg5 mentioned earlier to check the fuse, It is a separate fuse 20 amp I believe near the radiator and battery

Use a 12 volt test light or a dvom to insure the inline fuse holder is making a good connection and your getting power in the fuse and out of the fuse , being that close to the battery some fumes from the battery could have caused some corrosion.

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/554800-fuel-pump-relay-questions.html
 
here are some pics of my baby...not bad looking for being 28 years old...now you understand why I need to fix it..dont wanna take any shortcuts, she deserves better than that...I will be checking the relays toworrow.. I believe all 3 relays have 5 wires..one of them has a black n white..my son decided to wash his car and use the garage to wax it..thats ok though,,the race is getting ready to start...I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL OF YOUR HELP,,IT MEANS ALOT,,NOT TOO MANY NICE PEOPLE LEFT THAT ARE WILLING TO HELP A STRANGER..THANKS AGAIN,,WILL BE IN TOUCH...
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here are some pics of my baby...not bad looking for being 28 years old...now you understand why I need to fix it..dont wanna take any shortcuts, she deserves better than that...I will be checking the relays toworrow.. I believe all 3 relays have 5 wires..one of them has a black n white..my son decided to wash his car and use the garage to wax it..thats ok though,,the race is getting ready to start...I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL OF YOUR HELP,,IT MEANS ALOT,,NOT TOO MANY NICE PEOPLE LEFT THAT ARE WILLING TO HELP A STRANGER..THANKS AGAIN,,WILL BE IN TOUCH...

When your a can enthusiast your no stranger, your part of a very large international family of friends.

I just hope some of the advice provided by many of us provides the information that points you in the right direction.

I sure hope it is just the fuse or holder in the picture you provided. I have to ask what is that connector next to the the battery not connected to anything?

BTW the car is exactly what I remember from so many years ago, you have kept this car in pristine shape, But once you get it running.
Take that beauty out for a ride more often, that car is meant to drive and enjoy. Do not let someone else enjoy it instead of you after you cared for it so many years.
 
the yellow wire is just the hot lead for the aftermarket alarm..the fuse at the radiator is good..if you can see the relays on the firewall if you can enlarge the pic...the one in the middle says maf and the other 2 say nothing..i know..according to the schematics on the manual one has to be the maf burn-off relay and the other fuel pump relay..but as I mentioned earlier,,the one in the middle does not match the manual...
 
how about a closeup of the relays?
 
the yellow wire is just the hot lead for the aftermarket alarm..the fuse at the radiator is good..if you can see the relays on the firewall if you can enlarge the pic...the one in the middle says maf and the other 2 say nothing..i know..according to the schematics on the manual one has to be the maf burn-off relay and the other fuel pump relay..but as I mentioned earlier,,the one in the middle does not match the manual...

Does the aftermarket alarm have a interrupt circuit tied into the fuel pump circuit or other circuits?

Did you install the alarm? did the car run with this wire disconnected before?
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here are the pics of the relays
 

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alarm was installed professionally when I bought the car new. its just a motion alarm and has microphones around the inside,,, for example,,if someone breaks a window..hardly had it connected..killed the battery when I let it sit for a week or so..
 
alarm was installed professionally when I bought the car new. its just a motion alarm and has microphones around the inside,,, for example,,if someone breaks a window..hardly had it connected..killed the battery when I let it sit for a week or so..

again did the car run with this wire disconnected? most alarms even older ones would tie into one or more circuits killing those circuits when the alarm was activated. the installing tech may or may not have tied into a critical circuit.

what about that fuse by the battery and radiator does it have 12 volts going in and out of it?
 
yes the car ran with the alarm disconnected..the fuse has power in and out..here is what seems to be some kind of relay that the manual does not show,,but is like the one that advance auto said is the fp relay
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If you can afford a subscription to alldata you will have at your finger tips all the information you and we need to help you figure this problem out.

BTW I have never seen a aftermarket alarm system professionally installed.

Every time I have encountered an alarm system it is accompanied by a rats nest of wiring that doesn't get trimmed down properly and zipped tied under the dash.

These professionals splice into the factory wiring using scotch lock connectors like in the link provided.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Electrical-560B-BOX-Retardant/dp/B0002BFZ8E

They also normally cut some of the factory wiring in two, splicing in much thinner wires from the Alarm harness with crimp connectors.

Then they ball up the rats nest and zip tie it under the dash.

I hate this type of work and connectors with a passion.

A professional job each and every connector would be soldered in place and heat shrink tubing plus electrical tape is used then these wires would be protected in a wire loom.

the wires would be routed in such a way that it flows with the factory wiring harnesses.

To date I bet I pulled out over 200 Aftermarket alarm systems and each of them was installed by the same type of commission minded rush through it type of mechanic.

So my point is you would be doing the car and you a big favor by taking your time with the battery disconnected, pull the lower dash pad off and removing this wiring nightmare
out of your car. and re solder and restore each wire the way it was when it left the factory.

Even if this alarm has nothing to do with your problem, I would remove it.

Yet this is your car, you invested the money to have this done, so it will need to be your decision to remove it.

Your car has a circuit that will interrupt the fuel pump when the car is running and reports low oil pressure, that small relay may have something to do with this oil pressure sending unit.

I am willing to bet that the orange wire with black stripe can be found near the fuel pump, jack the car up and see if you can locate it, probe the wire with a test light when someone turns the key on it should have power for 2 seconds or so, when cranking the wire should have power on it the entire time the car is cranking.
If you have power the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
If you do not the car will need to be diagnosed using the information found in the manual or online at alldatadiy.com we can help with those test if you need it.
 
I guess I should have said that I had it installed and that I did not do it myself..you are 100% correct about soldering the connections and shrink tube..it was done under the hood in places but as for under the dash,,who knows..im guessing you're correct about the rats nest..i think what I'm going to do is do what you said,,jack it up and test the wires..if power,,new pump..i think that's going to be the fastest and probably the most logical..i'll be pulling my hair out otherwise or wind up creating other problems..oh by the way,,that last relay I sent a pic of with the purple wire is the leadlight motor relay..found it on the manual..
 
if you have the manual you should be able to tell which of the two relays marked 14078907 is for the fuel pump and test it as described in the earlier post. If necessary swap and test both of them.
 
if you have the manual you should be able to tell which of the two relays marked 14078907 is for the fuel pump and test it as described in the earlier post. If necessary swap and test both of them.

The OP mentioned that the manual he does have is not for the same year TA
and the wiring colors and relay locations are different.

I think he mentioned swapping the two relays that have the same number on it with no luck.

What has me nervous is the MAF relay has a broken harness retainer and a different part number. the wires to the MAF looks like it has been probed with a test light.
It is hard to tell for sure by the pictures but I am not sure what the OP has been up to.
I hope he did not swap the wrong relays around.

I know sometimes when I get in a hurry or frustrated, I can look at one thing go to grab it, get distracted and have the wrong part in my hands, if you know what I mean.

I worry that things that shouldn't have been touched or messed with have been just because of the lack of a proper manual.

It is a shame because for 30 bucks he would have immediate access to the very information he would need, and have had this problem resolved the same day most likely.

You know the saying about a horse and water. oh well I guess we will eventually see what happens.
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went to the gmc Pontiac dealer yesterday to see if I could get an 87 manual,,no luck,,but they did go on alldata and get the schematics for me...and I see that they are vin# specific..as far as your reply on the pics of the relays,,,NO,, I did not probe anything,,its just the grease on them and the retainer clip on the maf power relay broke when I swapped the two that were the same...caught on my watch..this car has never been worked on at any garage nor have I had to do anything to it,,,except normal maintenance...as I said before,,i'm not going to do anything to cause more problems..when you check the obvious and it isn't the problem,,,you need another set of eyes..
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-1987...ash=item1c5c35cefa:g:z48AAOSw42JWEJqB&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-to-198...ash=item3d083aaff1:g:0RUAAOSwPcVV0nea&vxp=mtr


these manual prices sure make 30 bucks getting the same and newer data immediately from Alldata appealing.

but if your old school with good eyesight and want something permanent to add to your tool box the two links I provided is what you need.

Please when ever working on your ride take all your jewelry off, I have heard many horror stories of rings getting fused to fingers.

http://www.medbc.com/annals/review/vol_5/num_1/text/vol5n1p33.htm
 
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yeah I know...stupid move..just took a second to do...damage done..I've heard of that also...thanks for the links..30 bucks is better
 
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