i just bought a fiero....

well, ive got it timed better now. the hesitation is pretty much gone, but the IAC is wide open... which was what was fooling me. with the correct ignition timing it idles around 2k, with 15 lbs vacuum. if i take off the ductwork to the air cleaner, and put my finger on the IAC bypass bore, the idle goes down to where it is supposed to be, didnt check vacuum while blocking off, i forgot
(doh)

the IAC is new, and now the codes are a 22 and a 42, >_> strangeness..

any ideas orief?
 
The IAC gets reset by the ECM only when the vehicle is driving down the road at 40 mph. Also make sure that it is not one of the adjustable kind. Some IAC's can be adjusted by turning the pintle. These don't work well on the V-6.
 
ah cool, i cant really drive it that fast yet, as i am still waiting for the paperwork for the tags to come back to me.. should be today or tomorrow tho^^.

also found more evidence of the flood in the transmission lol...

so i have to flush both the engine and tranny.

also the idle issue is probubly because of my coolant temp sensor. while removing the plug, it broke off in the sensor. >_< someone else had this problem, and it turned out it was the temp sens, so im definatly changing that... thank you fiero store! =P

and BTW, ur fiero is SWEET! did you keep the little torque strut rod when changing over to a 350? or is it replaced with some solid mounts?
 
and BTW, ur fiero is SWEET! did you keep the little torque strut rod when changing over to a 350? or is it replaced with some solid mounts?

The engine and trans are sloid mounted and the cradle uses polyurethane bushings instead of rubber (including the control arms).
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finally

its been a few weeks, but i have a little update:

i fixed the wiring issue, after i pulled the motor! >_>

after i got it running decent, i took it out and heard the clutch slip. so my friends and i got a few days off and pulled that sucker out. (which i'm sure you all know, is very fun when you dont have a shop.) the clutch disk was put in backwards!!!! omfg. also the front transmission mount braket was beat up all to hell! it was a brand new clutch tho >_>. anyway, changed the disk/plate/throwout bearing, checked the fork bushings (which i read about earlier), replaced the rear main and oil pan gaskets, redid the camshaft seal, and cleaned 10 pounds of grime off the inside and outside of the transmission. also replaced the alternator, which ironically decided to kick off the same day. two days later, she starts up and purrs! i hooked up the diagnostic terminals, and revved it up to reset the IAC, and the motor sounds great.

tried to bleed the clutch but what came out of it was pure grey/black. i only had a small bottle of dot3 with me, so i ended up having to reuse alot of the old fluid, which i'll replace tomorrow. right now i have to start it in gear, and i belive that has to be the old fluid.

other than that and the transmission bracket, the car is good >=D
tomorrow i replace the fluid and take it for its first test drive on the street^^

thanks for all your help =D
 
Aaarrrggh

sigh......

so i go to the car to mess with the wiring (the notorious code 22+42 came back >_<) im playing with the ignition timing/ and advance curve (the previous owner had installed a nob that adjusts the curve) revving it to around 4-4500 rpm. all of a sudden smoke billows out the back. something sprayed oil onto the exhaust manifolds on the firewall side when i revved up. it soaked the starter, the wiring harness, the firewall, exhaust pipes. i checked the filter and the sending unit pipe, which were both good. im out of ideas. besides a crack in the block, what would cause this?
 
sigh......

so i go to the car to mess with the wiring (the notorious code 22+42 came back >_<) im playing with the ignition timing/ and advance curve (the previous owner had installed a nob that adjusts the curve) revving it to around 4-4500 rpm. all of a sudden smoke billows out the back. something sprayed oil onto the exhaust manifolds on the firewall side when i revved up. it soaked the starter, the wiring harness, the firewall, exhaust pipes. i checked the filter and the sending unit pipe, which were both good. im out of ideas. besides a crack in the block, what would cause this?

The tube could crack, rust and get a hole in it, or the sensor itself can crack and leak oil on the exhaust manifold only during high pressure. The valve cover could have a bad gasket that allows the engine blow-by to push oil out when revving. Head gasket could also do the same thing.
 
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ah, thanks again orief! i dont like the sound of the last one >_> but i'll check em all out monday. i have 0-30 synthetic in there, and my oil pressure at idle is around 50-60.. thats a bit high isnt it? i wasnt checking the oil pressure when i was revving it to 4500, but revving to 2-3 brings the pressure up to 80~

in some ways the head gasket thing would be ok... i belive the valve stem seals are cracked, so replacing them, lapping the valves, and checking the head would be a good idea, since i think the guy that put the clutch in backwards might have done headwork as well >_>
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