Always have in your tool box a very large very strong 1/2 breaker bar. also have a strong pipe that just slides over the breaker bar that will give you extra leverage when you need it.
Always pull the Breaker bar toward you and make sure it is positioned in such a way that you can get maximum power for your effort.
Be prepared for the bolt to break loose, so look at the path the breaker bar will travel if it swings freely once loosened you do not want to smash your hands on to the frame or hit yourself in the head.
These bolts if installed by the factory are not that tight. So it shouldn't be that hard to break them loose, just make sure to soak them down with PB blaster or WD 40 a couple times and let them sit over night if they look rusty.
A good pair of mechanics gloves will go along way to aid in grip and protect your hands accidents do happen.
once broken loose then use the breaker bar, when reassembling it use a torque wrench tighten them back down like any bolt to the factory specifications found in a service manual.
A tip on most cars is to not remove the entire engine and trans axle cradle if you can avoid it.
Loosen the engine side and then loosen and remove the trans axle side when your ready to lower the cradle down with the trans axle supported above by a fender to fender engine trans support device.
like the one I provided a link to. I got one from Harbor freight one time on sale for like 50 bucks. I have since gave it away.
have a factory service manual or subscription to an online service manual like alldata DIY or mitchell 1 DIY
http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Suppor...40?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448480398&sr=1-8
