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Make my Ole'Lady happy > AC Help.

chellnmike72

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Newbie > My name is Mike. We have had a 2000 Grand Am GT for about 7 years. Great car for her and relatively hassle free on my end of car maintenance responsibilities......:cool:

On to my Pontiac late 90's early 2000's question: Anyone happen to know how to jump/bypass the compressor relay, well actually what two "Pins" to use after the relay is removed to get the clutch to engage.

There is a you-tube link below to better explain what I'm talking about....

From my research I have found that when our(G.M./Pontiac) systems are low on freon a safety switch won't allow the clutch to engage on the compressor. I need the clutch on the compressor to engage to take on the new freon I have. So as stated above you can temporally jump the relay using the 2 out of the 4 "Pins" Turning on the clutch so I can add the freon, then replace the relay.
>>>Any one happen to know what 2 pins to use???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Se6qv98vCpQ

Thanks > Mike
 
You shouldnt have to jump anything the pressure from the can of gas should cause the compressor to engage. Have you tried?
 
You shouldnt have to jump anything the pressure from the can of gas should cause the compressor to engage. Have you tried?

Yes I tried, that's why I did all that research and that was what I found.

I filled it last summer no hassles...

Depressed pin on pressure hose from can to assure I had punctured the cans safety seal < Got freon? Yup. Installed hose on the low hose on the car (Passenger Side Firewall) over the course of letting the car run for over 15 Minutes > A.C. on full blast. Periodically turned On/Off A.C. to try to get clutch to engage. Nothing. Took off and on hose from can back on to make sure I had the damn thing on good. On good, still nothing.

I also checked the fuses related to the AC. I also verified the Relay that runs the compressor was good by swapping it into the horn position in the fuse box (Same size relay) Hit the horn > Horn works > Relay is good.

No sense my replacing the compressor if the only reason the clutch is not engaging is because the system is to low as explained in depth in my prior post..... Once the system is filled the compressor will run properly once I return the relay.


Did you watch the link of that young man doing as I described?

Thanks > Mike
 
Last edited:
Thank you very much.... hope I can figure out specifically what 2 of the 4 provide pins are 30 and 87. Going to pull the relay to take a better look... The pins/plugs on that kids relay are set up different than the relay I have...

Mike
 
Sweet it tells me specifically on the bottom of the relay itself what number each pin is.... Well if this doesn't work then at least I will know for certain that it is the compressor.

Whelp > Go see what happens.... I'll post my results

Thank you for your time > Mike
 
In the kids video he even says 30 and 87 >> Duh Mike....

Good news, bad news.

Good news the paper clip jumping 30 and 87 engaged the clutch.

Bad news it really didn't seem to be taking on the freon like it did when I filled it last summer? Air in the cab didn't seem cool? Didn't want to overfill so I pulled the fill hose off.

when the clutch was engaged I then finally got a pressure reading on the gauge pushing 50 P.S.I.? Shouldn't I have a pressure reading on the fill hose whether or not the compressor is on? I'll do more research........

Obviously don't want to overload the system..... Either my gauge is faulty or the reality is the compressor is shot. Rain settled in so I may give it a shot again tomorrow...

Oh well it was a lesson in trouble shooting the compressor that I had never heard of. Just didn't go in my favor. Can't win'em all...:cool:

Thanks > Mike
 
Glad you got the unit to spin. Not sure which charging system you used but you kept the can upright? Did the can get cold while charging?
______________________________
 
Glad you got the unit to spin. Not sure which charging system you used but you kept the can upright? Did the can get cold while charging?

This is what I used and have used in the past with positive results. I realize there are better systems with better gauges on the market.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...chill-kit/_/N-259q?itemIdentifier=667632_0_0_

The can pretty much has to be upright as to read the pressure gauge. The can says shake from 12 O'clock to 3. In the past I always shook from 12 O'clock to 5 with no hassles. The can did get cold at first, stopped getting colder> checked cabin air > no change/not cold > checked pressure valve slowing creeping past 45 PSI, hurried up and pulled off feed hose.

I should have known this from doing it in the past but to get a proper pressure measurement the compressor/clutch does need to be on as well as the RPM's between 1500-2000.

Wish I knew how accurate my "middle of the budget" gauge was accurate.

As it sits now 46 PSI is in question. Forcing the compressor to kick on works but no cold air for my Honey.... A new compressor is over 200 Bucks and requires me killing a Saturday crawling under her car when I could be under the Buick......:eek:

I haven't given' up yet. Thinking about busting out the safety goggles and pushing the envelope tomorrow. Try and cram some more freon in there and see what happens. If the compressor is shot what the hells a few hoses to replace also....

Temporary bypassing the "Low freon safety switch" by jumping the clutch makes perfect sense in theory and am glad I found this option. The compressor needs to be on to take on the freon, especially if your system is empty!!! Bad feeling I will be buying a new compressor but wonder how many compressors where sold by shops to those that didn't even need one......

Must be a small leak cause once I get it filled it last all summer, by next summer >Nothing. Wonder if the stop leak for AC's works as well as the crap for your radiator >:rolleyes:

Thanks again and If someone else catches something I missed please let me know.

Thanks > Mike
 
I would consider other possibilities before replacing the compressor. There is a control valve in the system, dont remember the exact name, years ago it was called a POA. Try some online research first, hate to see you replace the compressor and still have an issue.
 
I would consider other possibilities before replacing the compressor. There is a control valve in the system, dont remember the exact name, years ago it was called a POA. Try some online research first, hate to see you replace the compressor and still have an issue.

Thanks for the heads up.... I'll post my findings in several days. Her car is on the back-burner while I get caught up with other projects around the house this weekend....

Thanks > Mike
 
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