milage

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68lmvert

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Hello all, what things should I look for to confirm a low milage car Im looking at a 68 LeMans, nice car but the title says over 100k , owner says under I have inspected the break pedal and other things Im aware of. any other advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
why would the owner say less if the title says more. I would be more concerned if it is the original engine, transmission, rear end, color, etc.
 
it all appears original 350 convertible buckets floor shift auto . it runs and drives like a 65k car but the 5yo title says 130k
Thanks for the reply!
 
Oh and the vin checks out.
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Have you observed if the odometer actually works?
 
He says 65,000 miles. Title says 130,000 miles 5 years ago. A good running 1968 convertible.......35,000 miles in 5 years sounds about right for a car that has been enjoyed. I wouldn't get too worked up over the mileage if it is numbers matching or at least mechanically in good condition. The part I would be worried about is the owner that seems to be possibly covering up 100,000 miles. Personally I would believe the title over the owner. A piece of paper has no reason to lie. A person can gain from a lie. But my glass is half empty when it comes to trusting people selling anything. Ask for receipts that show mileage, anything that can uphold his claim.
 
spectrumad said:
He says 65,000 miles. Title says 130,000 miles 5 years ago. A good running 1968 convertible.......35,000 miles in 5 years sounds about right for a car that has been enjoyed. I wouldn't get too worked up over the mileage if it is numbers matching or at least mechanically in good condition. The part I would be worried about is the owner that seems to be possibly covering up 100,000 miles. Personally I would believe the title over the owner. A piece of paper has no reason to lie. A person can gain from a lie. But my glass is half empty when it comes to trusting people selling anything. Ask for receipts that show mileage, anything that can uphold his claim.
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I called the state capital today the owner bought it out of state she was able to look up the original title the P.O. signed the back stateing 130k , I agree with you I lost a lot of trust. he also tried to hide the rust in the trunk its not terrible mostly a few pin holes. but we all know pin holes turn to dime holes real fast.
For 10k with new top With glass rear window (power works) very nice paint and interior, original am radio still works two sets of wheels nice factory rallys and a set with factory P.M.C. hub caps that look new!
Im just not sure what to do. And on top of all that the wife says its up to you.(me) that means if it goes well she was right if it goes bad well you know.
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also wanted to thank everyone for their reply's being a newbie here could some one direct me to wear to find the location of the motor code and what would be correct #'s on the block.
thanks again! 68 350 LeMans
 
melsg5 said:
The code is on the engine block in front of the passenger side cylinder head. This site has all you need.

http://www.pontiacpower.net/engcode01.html
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just wanted to thank everyone let and you know I bought the 68 #'s match the car runs great its a lot of fun we have had some top down weather here the LaMans gets a ton of looks and comments. We love it!
 
glad to hear you are keeping an old Pontiac on the road
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I second Mel's sentiment! One of the beauties of owning a classic car is how simple they are to work on. Not knowing your age or level of experience, I strongly suggest getting a factory service manual. After a quick Google search;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190504596013?lpid=82

Keep her running cool and change oil and filter every 3,000 miles and she'll bring you lot's of joy!

A couple of old school tuning tips:

1. When adjusting your dwell, get a set of Allen wrenches with the ball ends. They will slip in and out of the hex screw on your points more smoothly than a square cut wrench. I've found the square cut wrenches tend to get stuck in the screw, changing the adjustment when you finally get it out of the beast!

2. Never use the combination points / condenser sets, they were notorious for failing and leaving people stranded on the road. Always use separate points and condensers.


Now, you can replace the distributor with an electronic one if you like and avoid the points issues altogether. Personally, I like the old points and enjoyed fine tuning them.
 
Each to their own but I switched to a Mallory Unilite Conversion decades ago, original distributor. I have had no issue with the Unilite and dont miss trying to find my point adjustment tool.
 
Certainly right Mel. Without the right tools, adjusting the dwell is a PITA! Especially when the distributor is right next to the firewall. I had a very nice dwell meter and timing light set, still have it too. That along with the round end Allen with handle made adjustments much easier for me.

If I recall now, once I set the dwell I had to adjust the timing, then possibly the idle at each tune up. Definitely old school. My preferred ignition parts were Blue Streak.

A tune up on today's engines is merely replacing the plugs and throwing a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank. Maybe replacing the air filter if needed. The computers take care of the rest.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the reply's and suggestions, I have her up on stands in my garage doing some routine maintenance. I pulled the transmission pan drained the fluid I am debating whether or not to put a high capacity pan on it. I like the idea of having a pan with the drain plug in it although I know it would be cheaper to buy a kit to just put a drain plug in my stock pan. Does anyone know if there is a drain plug in the torque converter? Also I have read that the engine oil pan gasket can be a real bear anyone have any tricks for this.
Thanks again for all the advice also I was really pleased when I got under her completely for the first time the frame and floor pans are better than I could have hoped for! I got under the car somewhat before I purchased the car but not as thoroughly as I would've liked. Could've been a lot worse.
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no drain plugs in the convertor, go for the plug in the stock pan and have some one weld it in
 
thanks to you both, but isn't the oil pan nearly impossible to get off with the motor in the car?
 
the factory manual i believe has you disconnect one or both motor mounts and jack up the engine. It would be a good investment to get the manual.
 
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