My new old 1966 Pontiac Lemans

[algtrader]

Dear Pontiac forum,

I am new to this forum and to Pontiac vehicles. Have decent experience working with cars but new to restoration.

Just took home a 1966 Pontiac Lemans yesterday. See pics.



She appears to be untouched and not yet worked on. I drove 80 miles to get home and she survived the trip.

From reading the posts, I could tell there are very experienced guys on this forum and I could sure need your help.

Questions:
1. Is there a sticky that is available somewhere on what are the first things to do the day you take home your classic car? If yes, kindly send the link. If not, please list the first things you would do to the car.

2. While test driving the car, I observed the steering wheel had a LOT of play. This is a safety issue, I feel needs to be addressed immediately. Where should I start looking?

3. The engine is leaking oil from the valve cover gasket. Is this a DYI job for these cars or better for a mechanic?

4. Where do you get parts for a 1966 Lemans? The seller told me OPG in Orange County, CA but I still need to confirm this.

I'm sure this will be one of many posts from me as I restore this car. Thanks in advance for your help!

Regards,

Al G
1966 Lemans

 

[melsg5]

Nice car lots of luck with it.
1. Assuming you dont know the maintenance history of the car. Change all fluids, brake, engine coolant, engine oil and filter, transmission filter and fluid, differential fluid. Full tune up, points, condenser, cap, rotor, wire, plugs, air filter and fuel filter.
2. Start with all steering components, ball joints, tie rods, center link, idler arm, steering coupler, and steering box adjustment.
3. Typically the valve covers are a DIY job but have no idea what your skill level is.
4. I user www.amesperf.com for parts or your local parts store depending on what you need.

 

[EaOutlaw]

nice car, we should probably find out what you consider to be a restoration.

Are you looking for a car that when is done will look and drive like new inside and out top to bottom?

Are you using this as a daily driver? or this this a hobby car to tinker with when your not working?

I would start with diagnostics, first find out what works and what doesn't work.

Make a priority list writing down any and all work and parts that you feel is necessary.

Before you start changing fluids and filters check the levels and condition of the fluids.

since you do not know the service history of the car.

A good place to start with diagnostics is as follows.

A cooling system pressure test, a engine compression test, test the slack in the timing chain. test the oil pressure with a mechanical oil pressure test gauge.

Look over the entire wiring harness make sure the fuses are the correct rating and make sure the previous owner didn't wrap blow fuse with metal foil or put in spent bullet casings instead of a fuse.

You do not want you nice car to burn up because of bad wiring or shady previous work

While your doing these test look the car over for missing or altered OEM parts.

Inspect the entire braking system.

Check the front end for worn parts, check the engine mounts and transmission mounts.

Check the body mounts, while your under the car inspect all the metal lines brake and fuel. check all your flex lines and u joints.

Pretty much before you spend a dime on parts you will want to have a complete list of anything that is wrong with the car.

Not that you have to repair everything at once yet many items you will need will need to be shipped to you.

Make good decisions when purchasing parts, meaning if you have a budget for parts this month maximize your spending by combining shipping.

Many places will charge lets say for example 100 dollars to ship you a rear bumper yet they will add to the order without raising the shipping cost if you need other items that will fit in the box.

My point is try not to order one large part from one company and go to a different place for other smaller parts if the first company has the same parts and they are willing to combine the shipping for you.

much of what I am saying may seem obvious, yet is worth mentioning as melsg5 mentioned we do not know you or your abilities just yet.

after the basic diagnostics have been completed and you have a list of the mechanical and electrical items that need work or replacing.

Move on to metal work inspection if you see any rust that your not prepared to deal with at first keep it from becoming worse.

any areas that have rust that you can get to reasonably clean up with a wire brush or sand paper and coat with Ospho or other similar chemical that will stop the rust.

if your quarter panels, fenders doors etc are in good shape or not look for any built up dirt sand leaves, anything that will hold moisture should be cleaned out.

with the doors you can remove the door panels and use compressed air and a shop vac to clear out the drain holes same thing with the quarter panels.

I use a spray nozzle with a 16 inch metal brake line attached to get to all the nooks and crannies.

Any areas that you suspect rust may be forming yet you can not reach to clean properly at least pour a little Ospho in those areas to protect it.

you will just want to know while your working on one part of the car the major body work is not rusting away while your busy attending to other things.

By the time you do all of this, you will know your car inside and out , you will have a complete list of the parts you need.

This will give you the opportunity to come up with a realistic budget for this project. it will also help keep you on track with the project.

The last thing you want to do is invest a lot of money on a new interior to have the engine seize on you cause you didn't know about a minor problem
that turned into a major expense. ( cutting into your budget )

 

[algtrader]

New old 1966 Lemans

Dear melsg5 and eaoutlaw,

Thank you so much for the reply. Very useful information from both of you.

This morning I steam cleaned the engine and emptied out the junk in the back.

I think may have found the culprit for the large play in the steering wheel ...



Some sort of coupling to the power steering box.

The car has difficulty starting. I called the seller and he said it takes several tries and engine turns to start the car.

Hopefully the tune-up should fix this. If the tune-up doesn't fix it, then I suspect it might be the carburetor needing a rebuild.

I'm still waiting for the owner manual and repair manual I ordered from eBay. then I'll be a little more intelligent in asking questions.

Regards,

Al G

______________________________

 

[algtrader]

Answers to EAOutLaw questions

nice car, we should probably find out what you consider to be a restoration.

Are you looking for a car that when is done will look and drive like new inside and out top to bottom?

==> YES

Are you using this as a daily driver? or this this a hobby car to tinker with when your not working?

==> NO. MORE OF WEEKEND OR SHORT ERRAND CAR.

I would start with diagnostics, first find out what works and what doesn't work.

==> SO FAR: LARGE PLAY IN STEERING WHEEL, LEAKING VALVE COVER GASKET, SPEEDOMETER NOT WORKING

Make a priority list writing down any and all work and parts that you feel is necessary.

==> ALREADY DID. OIL LOOKS GOOD. NICE RED COLOR. HOW DO YOU CHECK ENGINE COOLANT AND POWER STEERING? DIFFERENTIAL i WOULD NEED A HOIST.

Before you start changing fluids and filters check the levels and condition of the fluids.

since you do not know the service history of the car.

A good place to start with diagnostics is as follows.

A cooling system pressure test, a engine compression test, test the slack in the timing chain. test the oil pressure with a mechanical oil pressure test gauge.

==> GOOD IDEA ON COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST. ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST I DID NOT DO WHEN i BOUGHT THE CAR. SHOULD I JUST INSTALL A OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ANYWAYS?

Look over the entire wiring harness make sure the fuses are the correct rating and make sure the previous owner didn't wrap blow fuse with metal foil or put in spent bullet casings instead of a fuse.

==> WILL WAIT FOR MY REPAIR MANUAL.

You do not want you nice car to burn up because of bad wiring or shady previous work

While your doing these test look the car over for missing or altered OEM parts.

Inspect the entire braking system.

Check the front end for worn parts, check the engine mounts and transmission mounts.

Check the body mounts, while your under the car inspect all the metal lines brake and fuel. check all your flex lines and u joints.

Pretty much before you spend a dime on parts you will want to have a complete list of anything that is wrong with the car.

Not that you have to repair everything at once yet many items you will need will need to be shipped to you.

Make good decisions when purchasing parts, meaning if you have a budget for parts this month maximize your spending by combining shipping.

Many places will charge lets say for example 100 dollars to ship you a rear bumper yet they will add to the order without raising the shipping cost if you need other items that will fit in the box.

My point is try not to order one large part from one company and go to a different place for other smaller parts if the first company has the same parts and they are willing to combine the shipping for you.

much of what I am saying may seem obvious, yet is worth mentioning as melsg5 mentioned we do not know you or your abilities just yet.

after the basic diagnostics have been completed and you have a list of the mechanical and electrical items that need work or replacing.

Move on to metal work inspection if you see any rust that your not prepared to deal with at first keep it from becoming worse.

any areas that have rust that you can get to reasonably clean up with a wire brush or sand paper and coat with Ospho or other similar chemical that will stop the rust.

if your quarter panels, fenders doors etc are in good shape or not look for any built up dirt sand leaves, anything that will hold moisture should be cleaned out.

with the doors you can remove the door panels and use compressed air and a shop vac to clear out the drain holes same thing with the quarter panels.

I use a spray nozzle with a 16 inch metal brake line attached to get to all the nooks and crannies.

Any areas that you suspect rust may be forming yet you can not reach to clean properly at least pour a little Ospho in those areas to protect it.

you will just want to know while your working on one part of the car the major body work is not rusting away while your busy attending to other things.

By the time you do all of this, you will know your car inside and out , you will have a complete list of the parts you need.

This will give you the opportunity to come up with a realistic budget for this project. it will also help keep you on track with the project.

The last thing you want to do is invest a lot of money on a new interior to have the engine seize on you cause you didn't know about a minor problem
that turned into a major expense. ( cutting into your budget )

==> EVERYTHING ABOVE WAS EXCELLENT! THANK YOU.