Need a repair shop suggestion

87FB4Kmiles

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Having trouble finding a repair person or facility for my Firebird. I’m in California at zip location 95336. 1987 Firebird standard 305v8
Only 4 K miles. Engine turns over but won’t run. Carb needs rebuild. I had a rebuilt carb put on it a few years ago and was running rough after that.Possible fuel or spark/ alternator,distributor issue. I’m not a mechanic but if called many places claiming to fix Pontiac but not that old. Called a classic car rebuild shop and he totally blew me off after telling me he would fix it. Also a mobile mechanic that never returned my call. Does nobody fix these cars anymore?Hope you can help out. I’m willing to have it towed or shipped anywhere.
Thanks
 

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So you tried the shop that repairs your daily driver?
It sounds by the items you list you are unsure why it wont start.
Are you willing to and have the skill to get it running yourself?
If not find a local classic car club that can provide a local recommendation.
 
So you tried the shop that repairs your daily driver?
It sounds by the items you list you are unsure why it wont start.
Are you willing to and have the skill to get it running yourself?
If not find a local classic car club that can provide a local recommendation.
So one local shop wouldn’t work on it. The other place , by the looks on his face and scratching his head I didn’t feel too comfortable bringing it there. Most places are sketchy around here and wouldn’t trust leaving it overnight. I do have the ability to tinker with it but really not familiar with car repairs.
I’ll check around at local car clubs to see if I can get some info. It was running when I had it shipped here a few months ago. It was running real rough with heavy gas fumes smell. Also slight rubber smell. I looked around and was tinkering with the carb linkages. The arm for the choke clicked forward which was odd. I restarted it and it was running perfect. Idle was smooth. Strange? Though I had it but After I parked it overnight the next day it didn’t start at all? No gas fumes. Just cranking and nothing. Maybe the choke is bad?
 
So one local shop wouldn’t work on it. The other place , by the looks on his face and scratching his head I didn’t feel too comfortable bringing it there. Most places are sketchy around here and wouldn’t trust leaving it overnight. I do have the ability to tinker with it but really not familiar with car repairs.
I’ll check around at local car clubs to see if I can get some info. It was running when I had it shipped here a few months ago. It was running real rough with heavy gas fumes smell. Also slight rubber smell. I looked around and was tinkering with the carb linkages. The arm for the choke clicked forward which was odd. I restarted it and it was running perfect. Idle was smooth. Strange? Though I had it but After I parked it overnight the next day it didn’t start at all? No gas fumes. Just cranking and nothing. Maybe the choke is bad?
Have you purchased a copy of the shop manual for it?
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I believe you are near Sacramento which can have cooler temps at night. It could very well just be a choke issue, sounds like a mechanical choke right? When it's warmed up if the choke is still closed you could smell rich fumes smell and it won't run right. Then it sounds like you got the choke to open up and it ran fine, but then wouldn't cold start because the choke was open now.

Go to an auto parts store and purchase an inline spark tester, they are inexpensive and easy to use but more importantly it will tell you whether it's spark or fuel, to me it sounds like a fuel issue but at least with the tester we can be more certain.

The carburetor should be a Rochester Quadrajet if it's still the stock carb. I personally love Rochester carbs for daily drivers, they just work great. But, I have seen far too many mechanics not understand how Rochester carbs work since they are somewhat complex and if not working properly will give problems. I believe in 1987 the carb might have some emissions controls which cold be part of your problems.

Personally if it were my car and I didn't possess the knowledge and skills to work on a quadrajet carb I'd just remove it and all the emissions crap and install an Edelbrock 500 cfm 4 barrel. The reason for the Edelbrock is you have a spread bore intake and you won't be taking advantage of the tuning advantages of a Holley. Edelbrock's are also easier if you do want to tune it and don't require removal and disassembly to change jets etc... It sounds like you probably won't be doing that sort of stuff and just want the car to run right and not go out racing or to the track. You can maybe go up to a 600 cfm if you are redlining over 6000 rpm, but for 100% volumetric efficiency and 5000 rpm limit 500 cfm is a good choice and better on fuel economy. I think the stock Rochester equipped 305 is only rated at around 180hp.

The other option is remove the Rochester and ship it to a professional to go through it. But then again you could probably have an Edelbrock at your doorstep in a few days and have it installed in one day and driving the next.

I had a customer recently that had a Pontiac 305 and Rochester that needed to be gone through. Instead of having me rebuild the carb he purchased a Holley double pumper which are not the easiest to setup for street use especially with a cammed and overbuilt engine. It took quite a bit of time to get his fuel to air ratios proper during all driving conditions with a mechanical secondary carb. Personally I don't see why mechanical secondaries are so popular with street cars. If you do go Holley, which is also a great carb make sure you get a vacuum secondary model and a spacer that fits the spread bore intake to the square bore Holley. Right out of the box a vacuum secondary Holley should work just as good as an Edelbrock but people I talk to find Edelbrock easier for a non-carb mechanic car enthusiast to modify. Edelbrocks are basically copies of Carters using metering rods.

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Thanks for your our help. I think sending out the carb would be best. Trying to keep everything stock as it only has 4K miles on it. I’ll check with the choke and spark diagnostics.
 
Without knowing what is causing your problem, just sending the carburetor out for another rebuild doesn't make sense. Checking the fuel filter in the carburetor inlet and fuel pressure test plus checking the ignition make more sense. In addition if there are wires connected to a solenoid on the top front of the carburetor you have a an early computer system.
 
Sorry I must have missed the part about the carb being rebuilt. If it was then no need to have it done again.

Make sure the choke opens and closes normally.

See if you have spark with the inline spark tester.

I personally like an inline fuel pressure gauge, you can always see where your fuel pressure is at without connecting a tester gauge. You want 6psi, no less than 4.5psi and no more than 6.5psi.

It should be easy to see if gas in the float bowl and in the throttle bore.

I have seen people "fix" Rochesters and mess them up completely. I just wanted to say if it ends up being the carb even though it was supposedly rebuilt then send it somewhere else or buy a different carb. I do agree, with the 4k miles and condition I'd too keep it original. If you get bored with "original" and want more power then ditch the emissions crap on the car and put a new carb on there and tune it to get more power.
 
Use www.Yelp.com to find a classic car repair shop near you... plenty in the San Francisco area.. check the reviews on each shop...

Doug in P.R.😎
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