New Dilemma

cmptech

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So...It has been about 40 years since I wrenched on a Pontiac. I love all makes however I have chosen a different brand. My son has a 68 LeMans that I found outside of Seattle. He purchased it and had it shipped back to MI. We have been restoring it for the last 5 years and put it on the road last summer. The Bad: The previous owner put in a sbc 350 and we both hate it. I just scored a package deal that included the following engines:
(Pictures Attached)

#1
1 complete 1974 Pontiac 350 ci motor it has the following:
4 barrel QJ carb
Stock intake ( 525355 casting #)
#46 Heads
Stock exhaust manifolds also have a set of headers.

#2
1967 Pontiac 400 (9786133 casting#) YD code
4 Barrel QJ carb
Stock Intake ( 9799068 casting#)
#142 Heads
Headers
Ram Air 3 Cam and Lifters (Still in Box)
All Pulleys and Brackets, power steering pump, starter ect..
Stock Valve covers.

* Heads, Intake, carb, distributor are off of engine as seen in pics. Crank turns freely and visual inspection looks pretty good. Was able to get to the timing chain and there is virtually no play. Was told that it was rebuilt in the past but that's like saying "was running when last parked"
Again I am not a Pontiac guy so tearing this down and rebuilding is beyond my skillset and wallet LOL! Also, I suffer from a disability so I am not able to wrench like I was once able to.

I'm thinking of just dropping the 350 in because it is a daily driver. (Not concerned with burning off the tires and horsepower. Just looking for drivability) and selling off the 400 Engine and accessories. So the question is...What would be a good asking price if I were to sell off the 400 engine and and everything listed with it?

Any other advice, opinions ect.. would also be welcomed!350.jpg400_1.jpg400_2.jpgLemans.jpg

Thanks!

Pictures included:
The 350 is complete with carb mounted in pic. The 400 is disassembled in pics. The Lemans is the car in need of the swap.
 
Not sure why you think Pontiac is that different from Chevrolet that you would have any issues. Anything you don't know is in the factory shop manual which is available. Don't see the benefit switching a Chevy 350 to a 74 Pontiac 350. I'd go with the 400 and use the money to buy a good set of aftermarket heads. Look at ebay and local sites for current selling prices.
 
The Chevy is a lapped out POS. It’s not my car as stated it’s my sons. Wanted a Pontiac power plant in a Pontiac car. Not that knowledgeable on chevys as I am partial to Mopars and have been for many years. But thanks for the advise.
 
Well for starters its not my car. Secondly...its not correct, and third...The Chevy is a lapped out P.O.S that wont stay running half the time. Thanks for the advise.
Let us know what you end up doing. Since the 400 is already sitting on an engine stand, pull the pan, check and if necessary replace the bearings. Look at the Edelbrock heads and use the 068 cam if you do the new heads.
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Thanks again!! I appreciate the input! This is uncharted territory for me. I have been a Mopar guy for years (Don't hate me lol!!) however, I like all cars and am not a hater of any brand. I was thinking of pulling the pistons and putting in new rings and bearings. Bearings I'm good with as far as replacing but when it comes to the rings do I just replace with stock rings? Unsure if I should even go that route?
 
Thanks again!! I appreciate the input! This is uncharted territory for me. I have been a Mopar guy for years (Don't hate me lol!!) however, I like all cars and am not a hater of any brand. I was thinking of pulling the pistons and putting in new rings and bearings. Bearings I'm good with as far as replacing but when it comes to the rings do I just replace with stock rings? Unsure if I should even go that route?
Can you measure the cylinder bores when you take it apart? Any visible scoring?
 
I will plan on taking off the pan tomorrow and assess the situation. I'll measure the cylinder walls and take some pics as well. I'll update you as I go along. Thanks Again!!
 
I would drop in the 350, enjoy driving the car this summer, and build up the 400 to replace the 350 at a later date, this gives you the time to plan the build the way you want it. Win Win IMO.
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That's a great idea!! I didn't even think about that! I pulled the valve covers on the 350 and it doesn't look bad. Thanks for the idea!!Pont_350.jpg
 
Looks good, no signs of any sludge.
 
That is a great looking car !
Thank you!! I sprayed it in the garage with a 97 GM Red(Cant remember the name) in a PPG single stage urethane.
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Okay... referring to the tear down. Here are some pics of what I found today (Not Good) I have been working on cars since I was 16 however I do not consider myself an expert by any means.
It appears to me that the Cam bearings are garbage. I definitely have metal in the oil pump screen as well as the bottom of the pan. Connecting Rod bearings are also fried, not sure and could use more input regarding the connecting rods themselves. Camshaft also looks scored and burned? Not sure about the crankshaft. Could I get away with just having the Crank polished? Piston and rings look good to me? again, IMG_4973.jpgIMG_4974.jpgIMG_4975.jpgIMG_4976.jpgIMG_4978.jpgIMG_4979.jpgIMG_4980.jpgIMG_4981.jpgmore input needed. BTW this is the first time I've disassembled a lower part of a motor, so be gentle LOL! There are no scores on the cylinder walls and they look good to me. They are measuring out on a micrometer at 4.12-4.16 Any input would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to bore this out unless it is completely necessary, I would like to have an everyday driver motor maybe a mild cam at the most.
Where do I go from here? any input would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Okay... referring to the tear down. Here are some pics of what I found today (Not Good) I have been working on cars since I was 16 however I do not consider myself an expert by any means.
It appears to me that the Cam bearings are garbage. I definitely have metal in the oil pump screen as well as the bottom of the pan. Connecting Rod bearings are also fried, not sure and could use more input regarding the connecting rods themselves. Camshaft also looks scored and burned? Not sure about the crankshaft. Could I get away with just having the Crank polished? Piston and rings look good to me? again, View attachment 6762View attachment 6763View attachment 6764View attachment 6765View attachment 6766View attachment 6767View attachment 6768View attachment 6769more input needed. BTW this is the first time I've disassembled a lower part of a motor, so be gentle LOL! There are no scores on the cylinder walls and they look good to me. They are measuring out on a micrometer at 4.12-4.16 Any input would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to bore this out unless it is completely necessary, I would like to have an everyday driver motor maybe a mild cam at the most.
Where do I go from here? any input would be greatly appreciated!!
Personally I would find a local machine shop to clean up the block, install the cam bearings and determine if honing the cylinders would be sufficient and measure crank to determine bearing size to use.
 
Update…The motor is all torn down and the block is going to my machine shop tomorrow.
Probably going to end up getting it bored out.
Will keep you posted!
 
Started tearing down the 350 today. At first glance it doesn't look bad. I did notice however that on most of the the internal head bolts and the Crank cap bolts there is this almost rust like appearance.
Oil that was drained looked pretty good however the very bottom of the pan looked a little milky. Ideas...thoughts ?
Thanks1350.JPG
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Where was the engine stored, if outside for any point water could have gotten in. When you remove heads carefully look at gaskets.
 
Where was the engine stored, if outside for any point water could have gotten in. When you remove heads carefully look at gaskets.
Thanks! I really appreciate all the information that you have been giving me!! I inspected the gaskets and they look surprisingly good. Actually…everything internally looks clean.The ridge at the top of each cylinder, I can barely feel with my finger nail. Oil pump screen also has zero debris on it. Found a painted over Reman plate on the block but I can’t make out the numbers yet.
 
Okay.. This is the last piece of the puzzle I have for now...Both heads have exactly the same appearance.350 Head.jpg
Thanks again!!
 
I would not worry to much about the slight surface rust, and as for the small amount of milky fluid in the pan, as long as it was only the very bottom of the pan, and you clean it out it is normal for an engine that is stored for many years in a humid climate to accumulate water in the bottom of the pan. It comes from condisation forming internally on the engine during temperature changes, and accumulates in the bottom of the pan, as water is heavier than oil.

I even had an engine sitting under a bench, suddenly develop an oil leak when the bottom of the oil pan rusted out! Dumped 5 quarts of old 10W40 on to my shop floor, what a mess, it happened when I was on a 2 week vacation, I cam back and the oil had spread to under my 69 Firebird! At first I thought the FB had sprung a leak!
 
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