R
Richard
Car runs fine. Error code light is intermitant? Error reader says #32? What does that mean? Thanks
Pontiac Fiero SE Automatic V6 154K miles - What is error code #32?
B
Badaboom
Cool car
Error code 32 is the EGR system. It is set when the EGR solenoid doesn't have proper vacuum or is bad. The EGR solenoid is located on the passenger side of the engine next to the intake manifold.
It looks like this:
Check the vacuum lines first. One of the common problems is there are plastic vacuum lines that run just under the plenum and with age and heat can crack/split. If your engines idle floats in RPM's you could have a small vacuum leak. If the vacuum is good, Then the solenoid is bad. Since it is intermittent, Most likely the switch inside is probably sticking or the solenoid filter could be dirty.
You can buy a new one from The Fiero Store. (1-800-343-7648)
Part #68324 Price:$149.95
Any GM dealership would have them as well:
GM Part Number: 10038324 ~ 1985-88 VALVE, EGR electric vacuum regulator solenoid
Before buying you could do the testing below to verify it is bad:
Testing/Troubleshooting
There are three lines to the valve:
a) vent (goes back to the air cleaner)
b) manifold vac
c) on demand vac. to the EGR. This is the line that the valve controls.
Basically it self tests. If the valve doesn't work, then the ECM sets a code 32. If it leaks, there would be vacuum at the EGR all the time. Check for vac. at the EGR at idle and there should be none.
The switch is three parts, an EGR solenoid, EGR vacuum diagnostic switch and control circuit.
The pink wire is 12 volts from IGN fuse. The ECM grounds gray/red wire which opens the EGR solenoid and lets vacuum go to the EGR valve and diagnostic switch. When vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, it is also applied to the diagnostic switch which closes the switch (Dark green and black/white wires) If the diagnostic switch does not close the ECM "knows" no vacuum is being sent to the EGR.
To test the EGR solenoid, it is normally closed, no vacuum should go through until gray/red wire is grounded with 12 volts on the pink wire. Ignition on will send 12 volts to the pink wire. Grounding diagnostic terminal (same as reading codes) will ground the gray/red wire .
To test EGR diagnostic switch, it should be normally open. Applying vacuum to switch should close it.
There is also a filter on the end of the EGR solenoid, on the end with the vacuum hose that runs to the air cleaner.
Removal and Installation
One bolt (10mm) holds it on. You will have to unclip the electrical connector, pull the one flexible hose off of the front end, and pull the two tubes (which are connected together, and are different sizes so they will only fit on the correct way) off the other end.
Cleaning
GM has the filter available separately however, you don't always need to replace the filter. It can be back flushed with compressed air to clean it out. I've done this, and it works great.
It looks like this:
Check the vacuum lines first. One of the common problems is there are plastic vacuum lines that run just under the plenum and with age and heat can crack/split. If your engines idle floats in RPM's you could have a small vacuum leak. If the vacuum is good, Then the solenoid is bad. Since it is intermittent, Most likely the switch inside is probably sticking or the solenoid filter could be dirty.
You can buy a new one from The Fiero Store. (1-800-343-7648)
Part #68324 Price:$149.95
Any GM dealership would have them as well:
GM Part Number: 10038324 ~ 1985-88 VALVE, EGR electric vacuum regulator solenoid
Before buying you could do the testing below to verify it is bad:
Testing/Troubleshooting
There are three lines to the valve:
a) vent (goes back to the air cleaner)
b) manifold vac
c) on demand vac. to the EGR. This is the line that the valve controls.
Basically it self tests. If the valve doesn't work, then the ECM sets a code 32. If it leaks, there would be vacuum at the EGR all the time. Check for vac. at the EGR at idle and there should be none.
The switch is three parts, an EGR solenoid, EGR vacuum diagnostic switch and control circuit.
The pink wire is 12 volts from IGN fuse. The ECM grounds gray/red wire which opens the EGR solenoid and lets vacuum go to the EGR valve and diagnostic switch. When vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, it is also applied to the diagnostic switch which closes the switch (Dark green and black/white wires) If the diagnostic switch does not close the ECM "knows" no vacuum is being sent to the EGR.
To test the EGR solenoid, it is normally closed, no vacuum should go through until gray/red wire is grounded with 12 volts on the pink wire. Ignition on will send 12 volts to the pink wire. Grounding diagnostic terminal (same as reading codes) will ground the gray/red wire .
To test EGR diagnostic switch, it should be normally open. Applying vacuum to switch should close it.
There is also a filter on the end of the EGR solenoid, on the end with the vacuum hose that runs to the air cleaner.
Removal and Installation
One bolt (10mm) holds it on. You will have to unclip the electrical connector, pull the one flexible hose off of the front end, and pull the two tubes (which are connected together, and are different sizes so they will only fit on the correct way) off the other end.
Cleaning
GM has the filter available separately however, you don't always need to replace the filter. It can be back flushed with compressed air to clean it out. I've done this, and it works great.
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