boythatcarofmine
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- Sep 16, 2016
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Just had a grand expedition for most of the week dealing with this, Spark Plug broke just under the nut when I put some force behind it, found it was halfway rusted through, probably as a result of over torque or manufacture defect but i'll never know. However I was able to get the spark plug out using an extractor without breaking through all the porcelain, which would require more work and stress to make sure none of it was inside had it happened.
Anywho, for several hours everyday i'd been using a pick to chisel through the porcelain and metal inside and its a slow process because it is definitely built to withstand adverse environments. Every 10 - 15 swings of the hammer i'd use a shop vac to suck out the porcelain and metal debris inside and out of the hole followed by a blast of compressed air.
I used a combination of WD-40, rust dissolver, and the liquid inside of a can of compressed air. When you flip the can at enough of an angle the liquid will come out as well and its super cold and starts boiling immediately, but a guide on youtube explained that metals with shrink a fraction of a fraction every 100 degree drop in temperature so that was used in conjunction with the rest.
The real piece that helped get it out was a modified #5 reverse drill easy out extractor. I took it to a machine shop and got them to cut and grind it down to size because the nose was too long and made it just slightly smaller than the width of the hole so it had a good start. Set it in place after chiseling and leveling it a bit more (I didn't go very deep to keep the porcelain from falling through, but enough to feel confident it'd have enough to bite into), and gave it a few more good smacks with a hammer and the socket extension (a really thick one). I had dug through the porcelain enough that it didn't have as great a grip anymore so when I gave it its final hits it forced it further in without breaking it, extending past the normal end of the spark plug. The extractor cut into the sides excellently for grip, and then it was just a turn of the socket wrench to get it out.
I hope someone else who reads this finds some use out of it if they ever get into the same situation. Its an annoying scenario but its not hopeless.
Anywho, for several hours everyday i'd been using a pick to chisel through the porcelain and metal inside and its a slow process because it is definitely built to withstand adverse environments. Every 10 - 15 swings of the hammer i'd use a shop vac to suck out the porcelain and metal debris inside and out of the hole followed by a blast of compressed air.
I used a combination of WD-40, rust dissolver, and the liquid inside of a can of compressed air. When you flip the can at enough of an angle the liquid will come out as well and its super cold and starts boiling immediately, but a guide on youtube explained that metals with shrink a fraction of a fraction every 100 degree drop in temperature so that was used in conjunction with the rest.
The real piece that helped get it out was a modified #5 reverse drill easy out extractor. I took it to a machine shop and got them to cut and grind it down to size because the nose was too long and made it just slightly smaller than the width of the hole so it had a good start. Set it in place after chiseling and leveling it a bit more (I didn't go very deep to keep the porcelain from falling through, but enough to feel confident it'd have enough to bite into), and gave it a few more good smacks with a hammer and the socket extension (a really thick one). I had dug through the porcelain enough that it didn't have as great a grip anymore so when I gave it its final hits it forced it further in without breaking it, extending past the normal end of the spark plug. The extractor cut into the sides excellently for grip, and then it was just a turn of the socket wrench to get it out.
I hope someone else who reads this finds some use out of it if they ever get into the same situation. Its an annoying scenario but its not hopeless.
