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sludge

68lmvert

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I just discovered that my new 1968 LaMans 350, has a bit of sludge in the motor still runs fine actually great! Does anyone have a secret formula for slowly cleaning the sludge out of an older motor.I've never been a fan of quickie motor flushes, I know some motor oils have better cleaning agents than others , and I also know you don't want to start running a highly detergent oil in a motor that has been run with non detergent oil.
There are all kinds of fixes on the Internet many of which I'm sure would ruin my engine!
One of my thoughts would be to start running, say Valvoline VR1 synthetic Because it has the zinc content That our older motors need .
Your thoughts and expertise on this issue will be greatly appreciated!
PS I fell in love with this car, and I might not have checked it out as well as I should have. I'm hoping you guys can bail me out . With that said the car is running quite well , but when I pulled the plugs to inspect them yesterday I did see close to fouling conditions On one of them Actually it was just darker than the other three plugs on the right bank.
I know the right thing to do would be to tear it down and redo the motor properly but that is not in my budget currently.
Thanks once again!
 
I would put in fresh oil and filter, drive it for about 1k miles. Do the oil and filter again and then every 3k after. If you have no problems dont create your own. Personally on my 71 GTO and 69 Vette i am using the VR1 10W30.
 
Quaker State and Penzoil were the main culprits of sludge back in the old days having pariffin wax as one of their oil additives they mixed in .


I'd pull the valve covers and clean out the most you can first , then do as Mel says. Try not to let stuff go down the oil return holes to the oil pan. ( most of time its builts up the most there -valve cover area.)

For Plugs , use regular Autolite Platinum ( not double) They seem to hold up better for oil or rich burning engines .( less fouling)

I use blended oils in my old stuff ( Vavoline Max Life or Castrol GTX High Mileage) The best of both worlds ...........:)

Doug in P.R.:cool:
 
I would put in fresh oil and filter, drive it for about 1k miles. Do the oil and filter again and then every 3k after. If you have no problems dont create your own. Personally on my 71 GTO and 69 Vette i am using the VR1 10W30.
Surely there must be some miracle ingredient like sea foam or something that I could put a few ounces into the current oil for a few 100 miles and change it.And the inside of my engine would shine like new! I am laughing out loud !LOL
All kidding aside would a a a lighter weight oil Oil help clean the sludge situation or with a heavier oil protect the motor better.
I think it's a good idea though to pull the valve covers and take my shop Vac and clean the top as good as possible.
Also at that time would it be a good idea to flush something through to the oil pan with the engine not running of course so it would not be sucked into the Sump
The situations got me a little bit aggravated I should have known better!
But I still think with a little bit of care she can be a good driver not looking for a race car just a cruiser.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
______________________________
 
The Main issue with "sludge" build up was the blocking off of either oil pressure ports, or oil return passages from the heads. Blocking of the return passages can cause damage by oil starvation, and can cause oil consumption by letting oil pool up in the heads and having it be sucked into the cylinders by the valve seals and guides.
I would not trust something that would dissolve all the accumulation at once no to cause damage to the engine, or more likely have all that accumulation go thru the oil pump or at least plug the oil pump inlet screen.
I would just pull the valve covers as suggested, make sure the oil return passages are clear, and change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. If it is running ok I would just leave it be unless it causes problems. You can worry yourself into issues sometimes.
 
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