So.. I did it.

[LoganM]

That's right. If anyone remembers, a month or 2 ago I was heavily considering buying a co-workers 87 Fiero. It's got less than 86k miles on it. The body has no rust (which REALLY surprises me, since we live in upstate NY). It does leak tranny fluid and it's obviously got some gasket issues in the engine (tell tale white smoke, oil isn't milky though). I hope to get a really good look at it and try to pin point the tranny leak this weekend, and, with any luck, my buddy will show up with his torque wrench and I can get all the gaskets replaced.

I was originally told that it had a blown cylinder ring. It does sound like it's idling really high, although I didn't really think to check the RPM's on it, so I couldn't really get a good listen to the engine. That'll, hopefully, depending on if the idle issue is just the fact that some idiot cranked it up, OR, maybe it's not idling high and it's just the way the engine sounds, I'll be able to get a much better listen to the engine.

In addition it needs a new headliner, the steering column tightened up and the motor on one of the lights fixed. Some of the paint has been sun faded, but I'm really not worried about that for right now.

Also, all numbers matching.

... Oh ... and I only paid $500 for her.

 

[86FieroSE]

great buy id say. the idle could be a vacume leak. take carb cleaner and spray it on vacume lines. if the idles higher it has a leak.

 

[LoganM]

Throttle body cleaner is safer from what I understand ... a little less flammable I guess?

I'm hoping some one reads this and answers it tonight ... but is it suggested to use gasket sealer when replacing the engine gaskets on the Fiero? I know some people swear by using it, just in case they don't get things set up perfect, BUT, I was told to never use it on my VW ... so I'm unsure on this one?

 

[LoganM]

I hear throttle body cleaner is actually safer ... less combustible or something ...

I'm hoping some one reads this tonight and can answer my semi-crazy question ... am I supposed to use gasket sealer when replacing the gaskets? I know some people swear by it, but I was put off of it when doing the gaskets on my VW because it can apparently cause more problems than it does good in VWs...

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[Oreif]

Throttle body cleaner is also flammable. I personally use WD-40. It is not flammable at the temps inside the engine compartment.
You use gasket sealer on some gaskets.
Intake or exhaust manifold gaskets = no sealer
head gasket, V-6 valve cover = no sealer
Timing cover, water pump, oil pan, 4-cyl valve cover, 4-cyl lifter access plate = yes

 

[LoganM]

Another quick question, the tranny dipstick is gone on my car ... the tube is still there ... Napa says they have one for GM vehicles of that year but it depends on what tranny the car has ... how can I find that out?

Other places offer 'adjustable' ones but the original one isn't there for me to measure .. and I don't know how much tranny fluid is in there, if any, because I know it currently has a leak, so I can't just put the dipstick in and measure it by the fluid level like the parts store said I could.

Help?

 

[Oreif]

Another quick question, the tranny dipstick is gone on my car ... the tube is still there ... Napa says they have one for GM vehicles of that year but it depends on what tranny the car has ... how can I find that out?

Other places offer 'adjustable' ones but the original one isn't there for me to measure .. and I don't know how much tranny fluid is in there, if any, because I know it currently has a leak, so I can't just put the dipstick in and measure it by the fluid level like the parts store said I could.

Help?

If it is the automatic it is the TH125
4-cyl with 5-spd is the Isuzu
6-cyl with 5-spd is the Getrag 282

 

[LoganM]

So ... the dipstick I bought didn't fit at all ... sooo much of it left sticking out ... *epicfail*

Did the compression test ... not.happy.

Pulled the spark plugs out. 2 of them are coated with oil, one has some, and the other is dry. All of them are black, although I was told they've been replaced with in the last year.

The cylinder all the way to the left I couldn't test all. For some reason the fitting that worked for all the others would not fit in it at all, and the next size down wouldn't catch well enough to do anything. However, the next one in was at 110 ... and the next two went to 80. I didn't even bother with the west test.

As for the idling issue, I THINK it's the tube that connects the air housing to the engine. When I pulled the air housing off the top of the engine the tube had no resistance and it just pretty much flopped right off.


It starts off idling pretty ok ... some where around 1k ... about 30-45 seconds in it starts to crank up. It got to 2k before I shut it off.



I had to replace the battery. The one that was in it was shoooot.



Also, I was going through the manual for replacing the head gasket and such ... and it doesn't show TDC at all ... I remember having to set it on my Jetta ... and there's nothing about what TDC should be for it. TDC is listed in the index, but when I go to that section in the manual (which it takes me to the V6 section on anyways), I don't see TDC ANYWHERE ... not the words ... nothing ... :/

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[LoganM]

Checking timing? 2.5l 87

I am going to run a leak down test on it this weekend to see if I can figure out why there is oil on the plugs before tearing it apart. I'm hoping to just get more results leaning towards gaskets, and NOT the results for ring/cylinder leakage. If everything comes back OK on the rings I already have all of the gaskets ready to replace things.

I definitely want to check the timing because it does start hard and the spark plugs are covered in carbon. I'd rather make sure it's ok and assume that the plugs are old than just assume the plugs are old and have it end up being that the timing is off.


So ... how exactly do I check the timing? Do I need a timing light for this? How do I know for sure if the timing is good or not? If it isn't right, how do I fix it? I'm pretty sure I read about jumping something inside the car for this, but I just want to make sure I'm right. I do have the Haynes repair manuals, but we all know that sometimes they take you the long way around things.

 

[Oreif]

So ... how exactly do I check the timing? Do I need a timing light for this? How do I know for sure if the timing is good or not? If it isn't right, how do I fix it? I'm pretty sure I read about jumping something inside the car for this, but I just want to make sure I'm right. I do have the Haynes repair manuals, but we all know that sometimes they take you the long way around things.

You cannot check the timing the normal way. The 1987/1988 4-cyl engines use DIS ignition systems. This means the ignition timing is all programmed into the PROM in the computer. If you suspect the timing is off, you need a laptop, an ALDL harness and the software to read what is programmed in.

On thing about the 4-cyl engines is the timing gear can wear and get sloppy because they are made of a composite material instead of steel. This affects the timing. You can download the factory service manual here: http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=14
Which will give you detailed instructions on changing it.

Also, If you want you can order the aluminum gear set from the Fiero Store which will last a lot longer and is stronger than OEM.
http://www.fierostore.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=184&p=1

 

[LoganM]

Well, I had my ex-mechanic friend take a look and listen to the car today. No cylinders down. Timing is not off. Just a blown gasket on the top half of the engine and the motor mount is really bad. The standard rubber motor mount is in stock at the local parts shop, so everything is getting fixed Sunday. The Beast will be on the road monday.

 

[RyanDC]

Fiberglass doesn't rust. If you're afraid of rust being a problem because of where the car is from, better check the frame and make sure you can't poke your finger through it. especially around the motor. Because the body won't show rust, as it is not metal.

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[LoganM]

So ... working on this car has been slow going ... seems like everything that can go wrong during getting set up ... has gone wrong ... the day I put the car on the road the alternator died ... leaving me stranded ... all of my tools got stolen out of the garage I was renting ... and the owner wouldn't replace anything, even though it's her fault for not replacing the doors when they fell off, and not bringing them to me the night I moved the car out. I was going to go back for them, but ya know, dead alternator means no go. Finally got them all replaced ... I have the new catalytic converter sitting and waiting to go on tonight ... alternator is all changed, belt back on. ... Ohhh ... and the car has the factory locking lugs on it ... and the idiot threw the key out when he was cleaning the car out before I picked it up. HOWEVER, I just came a crossed the information on how to get a new one today while looking for help with another issue.

While removing the old alternator I some how managed to give myself a pretty decent coolant leak. It's leaking right from where the tube connects into the engine on the drivers side. I'm not sure if there's a gasket or anything in there that may have just gone bad and I just happened to bump it enough to mess things up? I went out to the local junk yard today because there's a Fiero out there ... but not only did it not have the tubing, I'm pretty sure the only one they have left is a v6. It's got fantastic looking cooling tubes on both undersides though ... so I'm considering making a day project and getting some new shiny tubes.

I changed the valve cover gasket ... I really wanted to do the head gasket while I was at it ... but I can't because I can't get the tires off. When I discovered that the valve cover was hardly on (as in ... I could turn the bolts with my fingers with very little force) I figured I might as well just do it ... at least it will stop the oil leaking all over my car ... that may very well be my vacuum leak issues and such right there too. We shall see.

I'm going to call Amcor in the morning (which is the company that made all the locking lug keys for the Fieros) and find the local dealership with the master key set so I can figure out which ones I need ... however, gotta get the car good enough to at least drive there and back ... where ever 'there' is ... :/

... Slowly getting there ...

 

[tucsonsean]

I wouldn't fool with the locking lugs myself. Had a similar problem. Buy an impact socket (I forget the size, but slightly larger than the lugnut) you don't need to keep, hammer it onto the locking lug, and an air wrench should turn it off. Put the socket and lug in a vise, and use a drift to drive the old lug out. Repeat with the other wheels. You can find stock GM lugs to replace them in a boneyard, and usually, if you're a regular customer, they'll give them to you. People really don't cruise around looking to steal 14" Fiero wheels these days.

 

[LoganM]

True ... the local shop wants $40 to take them off and put new regular lugs on it. And ... I tried pounding a socket onto it and actually rounded one of the lugs .. Tried using JB Weld and sacrificing some sockets ... not sure what happened but the jb weld crumbled instead of doing any good. The shop wants $40 to remove them, but apparently replacement keys are like $10 bucks from the company, so we'll see. I guess it's all a matter of if I want to do the work or not, ha.