Valley pan / vacuum lines

1980Esprit

1980Esprit

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Hello everyone. I am nearing completion of a Pontiac 406, and have a couple questions regarding this motor. On my valley pan there is a place for what looks like a vacuum line for PCV. This motor will be high performance so is there a bypass to using the valve and having a vacuum line or how does this work? I am unsure of what it exactly does, and asking for help. Also, would someone be able to help me with all of the sensors needed, and where all vacuum lines go (Diagram?).

I know you do not use brand new headers for break in, so what could I do for when we break in the motor? Have someone bake the ceramic coating on the headers and then break it in, use exhaust manifolds for just break in, or what could I do? I do not want to buy used headers for just break in, and then have to buy new ones. If I could even happen to find any in my area.

Thanks is giving for any help.
-Rylen
 
Even on a high performance engine you should have a functioning PCV, any blow by is taken care of as opposed to have oil fumes coming out a breather and messing up your valve covers. The valley pan uses a rubber grommet and the PCV fits in it. You than run a rubber line to the base of the carburetor, most of them have a fitting for the PCV line. You also need a breather in one or both valve covers to let fresh air in. Use your stock manifolds for break in, they do not guarantee coatings on headers when used for breaking in an engine. The temperature sensor would mount on the intake manifold and the oil pressure on the filter base plate. The only vacuum lines would be one for the distributor connected to a constant vacuum source, the power brakes, and the line to operate any interior climate controls. The carburetor/intake manifold should have ports for all of these.
 
I will make sure to get it ordered then, but I have another question for the sending units. What would it take to get a set of after market gauges wired so that I would have water and OP. I would have these 2 gauges in a cluster by where the ash tray is in the center console.
 
Depends on what you want to do with the factory idiot lights. If you have a second hole in the intake you can place the appropriate water temperature sender there or if the heads have a screw in plug you could place one there. The OP would require a T fitting so you can retain the factory sender and the new one.
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I would leave the factory gauges in but they would become dummy and be unusable. I would have them relocated to the gauge cluster. I am not sure how the gauges work, so what would be required.
 
If you dont want the factory idiot lights or gauges working then you dont have to do anything with them. Just need to remove the OP sender and put in the new one and run a new wire to the new gauge, same with the water temperature.
 
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