new oil pan needed

javojjaaf

javojjaaf

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so i have found a few problems that need to be addressed with my 88 gt i got a couple of months ago. the biggest problem is there is an oil leak that drips on the back side of the exhaust and smokes while i drive it. i took it to a shop today and the owner informed me that my oil pan has a few rust holes in it around the top and oil is slinging out when the engine is running. i have found a few replacement pans, but i dont want to get a crappy one. also, i have noticed that some of them say they dont have an oil level sensor hole....is this need or not? any input on this subject would be great! thanks
 
The oil level sensor is not used on the Fiero. You can use 1987 or 1988 oil pan. (1986 and earlier is a different style pan)
You can get a decent used one from many places like Fiero Factory in Alabama.
 
thanks, ill give them a call. i found several replacement pans online that range from 60-100 bucks...dont sound to bad to me unless the used parts are a lot cheaper.
 
i picked up a pan and gasket from advance with a 10% off coupon for $80. gonna knock this and the fuel filter out this week....but bigger problems have showed there ugly faces.
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i got the fuel filter changed out, but wasnt able to get the oil pan off without digging deeper than i wanted. looks like i have to take the mount off under the front on the engine in order to get to the last bolt on the front left looking from underneath. has anyone done this and is it something i can do easily or should i just pay someone to do it?
 
On the subject of oil pans, I've heard that the stock 86 GT can lose oil pressure when taking turns too fast. A suggestion was made, that I should replace the oil pump, and add a second one, or buy an updated kit to replace the stock setup.

My oil light does come on after a few miles down the road, but not until the car is fully warmed up...

Advice/suggestions??
 
shadowVOLPE said:
On the subject of oil pans, I've heard that the stock 86 GT can lose oil pressure when taking turns too fast. A suggestion was made, that I should replace the oil pump, and add a second one, or buy an updated kit to replace the stock setup.

My oil light does come on after a few miles down the road, but not until the car is fully warmed up...

Advice/suggestions??
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First off you need to check the oil pressure with a mechanical accurate gauge. The oil sensor in a Fiero can give false readings. If you find the sensor is giving bad readings, they are easy to replace. They are located just below the firewall side head near the battery.

Yes during hard cornering the earlier V-6's could lose oil pressure. It had nothing to do with the oil pump. The oil pan did not have enough baffling in it and too much oil would slosh to one side allowing the oil pump pick-up to suck in some air. The 1987/1988 pans are baffled better but cannot be used on the earlier engines unless you change out the timing chain cover as well. I know a few who have done this for autocross racing.

If your oil pressure is truely low, it may not be the oil pump but rather wear on the engine. How many miles are on it? What oil are you using? Using 5W30 synthetic on an engine with over 100K miles will show lower pressure. Try using a 10W40 oil and see if it improves. If it does you have some wear on the engine.
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She's due for an oil change, so what kind would you recommend? I'm at 84k miles and won't be driving it or even starting it for the next 3-4 months, unless there's a good reason to do so.

I'll have to get back to you on the oil pressure readings.
 
I would use Castrol GTX 10W40 and a good oil filter like AC Delco, Bosch, K&N, Mobil1, etc. I personally do not like FRAM.
 
shadowVOLPE said:
She's due for an oil change, so what kind would you recommend? I'm at 84k miles and won't be driving it or even starting it for the next 3-4 months, unless there's a good reason to do so.

I'll have to get back to you on the oil pressure readings.
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i would start it and let it run for 10 minutes or so to circulate the fluids. one or twice a month is a good idea.
 
sweet deal. Unfortunately, haven't done enough oil changes myself to have much of a preference.
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86FieroSE said:
i would start it and let it run for 10 minutes or so to circulate the fluids. one or twice a month is a good idea.
Click to expand...

That is incorrect. Running for just 10 minutes will hurt the engine more.
You need to run the car (drive) for 15-20 minutes if you run it. If you cannot run it like that, Then do not run it at all. Running for just 10 minutes standing still will not peoperly heat up the entire drive train. Since it gets warm then you shut it off, it can build up condensation. This can get into fluids and damage things.

I put mine in storage at the end of October and pull it out in April. Been doing it since 2002 and have had no problems. If you store a car you need to do a few things.
Check tire pressure. I have the tires filled with nitrogen so tire pressure does not change with temp.
Pour some Sta-Bil in the tank and fill up tank.
Remove battery and place it on a trickle charger on a bench.
Place a box of baking soda in the car. Close windows.
If you have a problem with mice in the garage, You need to do a few things to prevent mice from using the car as a nest. A list can be found on the internet.
Cover car with a proper car cover.

This is only for storing a vehicle over the winter. There are other things that need to be done if you are storing a car for a longer period of time (years).
 
sorry i wrote that wrong. and yes you can let it sit its personal preference. i prefer to take "sitting" cars out on clear days and drive them up to opperating temp. atleast once a month. sorry for my post didnt realize i put "10"
 
My brake calipers are locked in place so taking it out for a drive (without working brakes) isn't really an option. Plus the interior has almost all been removed.
 
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