1990 turbo - engine trouble

SunbirdTopDown

SunbirdTopDown

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I have a 1990 Sunbird 2.0 turbo convertable with engine trouble.
When I bought the car I was told it was driving, lost power and eventually stalled and wouldn't start back up. So I was thinking bad turbo, ect...
I couldn't get the engine to turn over at all even with a new starter and battery (it engaged but no turn) until I removed the flywheel cover and pryed on the flywheel turning the engine over once. turning it with a breaker bar on the crank bolt was impossible...

I got it to turn over with the key but it only would turn over 1 or 2 times and stop, then again 1 or 2 times and stop. so I figured it was pressure locked and removed the plugs. with no plugs it did turn over constantly. at this point I noticed antifreeze blowing out of the number 3 cylinder. Oil looks spotless and antifreeze is clean(no oil streaks).

I figured a severely blown headgasket was the issue and removed the head. The head gasket showed buildup in the water jacket ports, almost clogged but not. the head was cracked on number three so i replaced the head and gasket.

The engine now would fire and would run 2-3 seconds and die, hard. not like running out of gas, just stopped. this would sometimes be accompanied by a high pitched metal chirp. no knocking when running or rattleing. I figured the turbo was locking up and removed the intake tube between the turbo and intake. it would run longer now, then stall hard, and sometimes chirp. after it ran there was smoke in the valve cover when i removed the lid, alot. I figured exhaust was backing up in the turbo and stalling the engine... i let it sit a day

I came back and removed the exhaust manifold from the head and tried to start it, now it wont turn over again. removed the plugs, won't turn. Got under and pryed on the flywheel and now it will barely turn a full revolution with the key before the starter cant turn it anymore. It does "move" the engine around but not even a full cycle.

now i know its not pressure locked... possible rings? bearings? or even transmission locked up or warped block?

just don'[t know what direction to go now.
 
Sorry dude sounds like you need a complete rebuild..after hearing all that you had to do just to get it to crank, sounds like a bearing getting stuck ect.buuut did you try putting the trans in neutral and try to crank it
 
yeah! I hate to say it but you asked, a complete rebuild is i n order..and if your going through all that you should get a reman tranny cuz if the tranny is good..there is a chance the new motor will take out the tranny within a year..It a chance, not saying it will happen but the age of your car tell's me it's likely ..I've had it happen to me befor on at least 3 cars and alot of people I know tell me the same thing
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I figured as much. Sometimes the advice of others makes it obvious when in denial. :)
It only has 115,000 but I agree. Good advice, better now than later.
Do you think if I replace all low end bearings that maybe the issue, or should i go ahead and do rings too? My major concern is a warped block, which would make all that useless. Is that possible? I know a bit about mechanics but when it comes to inside the block, rods and crank, I haven't been that well experienced. Other then spinning bearings and failing at repair :/
 
you need to do a complete rebuild.everything! when you take it apart take all main parts to a machine shop and have them look at them and make sure everything is in order..you could even get the crank shaft knife edged and polished for more power..but when it comes to the head, if you don't want to do a port and polish..just go to a parts shop and get a remand head..and if you don't want to do anything to the crank then get a remand.. it saves time, money and stress..you do have low milage but the age is the problem when it comes to the tranny..but you should get a haynes or chilton,I have both.. for when you do the rebuild
 
So wie ich verstanden habe lässt sich der Motor nicht mehr drehen?

As I understand it, the engine does not turn anymore?

Da würde ich die Ölwanne abschrauben und schauen ob nicht ein Pleuellager gelöst ist und das am Motorblock klemmt.

Since i would unscrew the oil sump and have a look at whether or not a connecting rod bearings is resolved, and the engine block is stuck.
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After some time I ended up getting a good battery in her and it had sat awhile with oil i had dropped into the spark plug holes and it turns over, and after cranking awhile (think fuel pressure or air in line...) it fired right up. now everytime quickly, starts straight up.
issue now :
idles high, turbo is obviously rattling, and it smokes, and OH BOY does it smoke. I ran a compression test and all four cylinders get 125 psi. I let it run maybe a total of 3 minutes all together and now the oil level was slightly lower and looked cloudy. I'll be checking the antifreeze tomorrow.
Question: could the turbo be all the issue? its really rattling. can a junk turbo contaminate the oil?
thoughts?
 
If the turbo is lubed with engine oil, than yes, any matal filings can get into the motor.
 
When a turbo goes, it smokes out the exhaust real bad and it will drain your oil pan in a hurry................been there, done that in a Cement Mixer.

Doug in Az:cool:
 
Yes, turbo is oil and coolant chilled. Just checked oil and is actually at same level and antifreeze is full and seems clean also. no streaks like gas or oil. what im trying to figure out is what could be causing this smoke. Is it possible to produce that much smoke from a cold start with a leaky turbo? or is it sounding more like block/head/gasket issues again...?
also it idles at about 2000-1500 rpm, im "hoping" built up fluid is burning up in the exhaust side of the turbo and maybe the fluids show no change of level since its ran so little.... :crossing my fingers:
first thing tomorrow im going to post a video of a cold start on youtube and put a link. maybe seeing the smoke and hearing the noises will help.
also any opinion on letting it run? good/bad? i don't care about the turbo, its getting replaced regardless.

Thanks again to those who have replied, any and all ideas and info is appriciated! thank you all for your time and thoughts
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Did some more work on it and its definately the turbo.
Thanks for that link. So far I haven't found anything local so might have to use someplace like that
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On to the next set of problems, fixed that. now:
won't shift out of second, coolant fan doesn't engage when hot, and alternator randomly doesn't charge.
also when cold starting it fires with a pretty good knock about 2-3 times then quiets. (oil pressure?) when revving this up (low rpm below 3000) it rattles, and this time i know its not the turbo. fluids have been changed and new oil filter. also rattled when letting off the gas. sound like rod bearings? its not knocking when running, just rattles, and sounds ok at idle. just sounds overall , loose, i guess.

so frustrating!

im thinking the last time this ran, someone had one heck of a joyride.... :/
 
Rattle: rod bearings or detonation or loose convertor to flywheel bolts(auto)

Fan : bets its the relay or fan sensor on the head


Altenator: Take to the autoparts store to test


Trans : auto or manual?


They ( on the Web) say to run synthetic oil in 2.0 OHC Pontiacs.


Doug in Az:cool:
 
well i know its not the flywheel, i've heard that before, didn't think of detonation though, i'll have to check timing. seems to only make noise at 3000 or slightly above. haven't wanted to rev higher in case it is bearings.

the temp gauge works, guessing it has another sensor? and if i tap the relay it moves the fan, on to buy that.

its an auto, going to check my kickdown cable, it was just recently removed obviously maybe i goofed putting it back :)
 
The PCM (powertrain control unit/computer) sends power to the fan relay based on the output of the coolant temperature sensor reading. The relay then sends power to the fan; thus turning the fan on.


Same sensor runs the temp guage, check the relay and wiring if the guage works is my guess ( driverside inner fender - engine compartment relay location )

Points in the relay or the coil inside it could be bad.

Doug in Az:cool:
 
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