2002 grand am turns over but wont start

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toolz

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I've ran the obd2 codes and got nothing. Voltage on battery was 10 so I jumped it off with my truck. Rechecked voltage and it was hitting 13 so I tried to crack again. Same thing, it turns over but it won't start up.

I figured fuel pump, so I bought some starting fluid and sprayed into the air intake. Same thing, turns over doesn't start up.

So now I'm left thinking it's something with the ignition system, but I'm no mechanic just someone who knows how to use google.

Someone on another forum suggested alternator, but if alternator was the problem wouldn't that mean it would start while being jumped by my truck and hitting high voltage?
 
You either have insufficient fuel pressure or no spark. Start with a fuel pressure test using a gauge. Please note computerized cars dont like batteries with only 10 volts so you may have multiple issues going on here.
 
Thanks, I read a few other threads where you suggested fuel pressure regulator leaking. I checked around the FPR and didn't notice any signs of leaking, if the pressure is low would this indicate a FPR leak?
 
A bad regulator typically causes the engine to run rich because of too much pressure. You pull off the vacuum line and will see gas in the vacuum line.
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With cars today, you have to be more careful running or trying to run the engine with a weak battery. Jump starts are Ok in an 'emergency' situation, to get you home or a repair shop, but the battery should be charged and checked before returning to full service.

One of the reasons is the circuit boards on today's alternators. Back in the 60's and 70's generators and alternators were built more primitively but also more robustly. They could take higher temps, amp loads and resistance. Your battery could be drained to nothing but if the alt/gen was sound and you got a jump, or a push start, the alternator would run the car and charge the battery if it could still take a charge (there also wasn't nearly the amount of electrical gizmos and doodads back then). Today, you could easily burn out your alternator if you run with a discharged or very weak battery.

So, along with checking on the fuel pressure as Mel suggests, you should take your battery down to O'Reilly's or the like and have them charge and test your battery.
Then, have you tested for spark at the plugs?
 
I'm about to go check the spark plugs now, tested fuel pressure and it was 50 psi which according to hanes manual is within acceptable range. Changed out the battery with a new battery and now am getting 12.42 volts, great.

Still won't start up still turns over the same and still doesn't throw any obd2 codes.

I'll check the plugs now, but geez this doesn't seem normal not to get codes when it's something with the ignition, does it?
 
If it doesn't fire with starting fliud, you have no spark. Codes would show up after it is running.
 
I pulled out the plugs and one of the 4 plugs was filled with liquid. Looked like mostly gas I guess. The plug was obviously gone, the tip somehow was all the way bent down and the ceramic was shattered around the shaft.

Should I just replace the plugs and see what happens or should I be worried about the fuel in the first plug area?
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You may want to do a compression test, something hit that plug.
 
Does a compression test just see if the socket the plug goes into is messed up? If it is cracked/bent what does that mean?
 
Compression test will detemine if you have a bent valve, skipped or broken timing chain, or a hole in the piston, basically major engine issues. You probably can rent the tool at some of the major auto parts chains.
 
I figured out why the ceramic was cracking, I was cracking the ceramic myself when I was loosening the plugs since they were seated in there pretty hard. I installed new spark plugs and tried to crank the car. Each key turn I let it turnover 5-6 time and by the thid key turn it just stopped turning over. Does this mean bad starter?
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Sounds like something is hitting the plug. Pull the plugs and see if it turns over freely
 
Confirmed that something is indeed hitting the plugs. #2 plug was bent all the way in with no gap. The other three were fine. What causes this? Plugs seated too deeply? Head gasket blown?
 
Here is an album with pictures in case that helps anyone. Picture of the new plug bent and I am also wondering if it's safe to leave the plug #2 out put everything back on and try to crank the car?

http://imgur.com/a/iew8O#0
 
Could be a deposit on the top of the piston. You neeb to check compression. If it is good on the #2 then you might get away pulling the head and cleaning it off. If the compression is low, you've got more serious trouble. > New/rebuild engine time.
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I rented a compression gauge from autozone, but the release button was broken off so I THINK the compression gauge might be messed up. Anyways I did exactly what haynes book told me to do. took all plugs out, pushed the throttle wide open, took out the fuel pump fuse, connected compression gauge, set up a video camera to watch the gauge and then let it turn over 7-8 times. plug #3 (I said #2 earlier, but I was counting from the right, which haynes corrected me and told me it was #3) It turned over 7-8 times and I checked the video.....compression didn't budge a bit. Tried #1 and first time compression didn't budge a bit. Tried turning it over again and it stopped turning over. Thought that was weird so I took to negative out of the battery and reconnected it. Still wouldn't turn over.

Any recommendations?
 
What are you saying when you state wont turn over, the battery is dead or it wont start? Are you saying the compression test gave you a reading of zero on two of the cylinders? If you got zero you have to determine now if the timing chain is broken or you have other issues.
 
When I turn the key nothing happens. Assuming I did the compression test correctly two of the cylinders gave me a compression of zero. Then the car stopped doing anything when I turned the key. At first it would give one click and now it just does nothing at all. Doesn't turn the radio on, nothing. I'm thinking a security feature or something so I'm giving it 30 minutes to time out hoping that's the case.
 
I wouldn't trust the compression gage with a busted relief valve. You won't be doing much testing if the battery has discharged. Get yourself a good gage whether you have to borrow, rent or buy it. It would be a good investment. Make sure your battery is charge up before worrying about more issues.

You need to do a reliable compression test. It would be very unusual to have zero compression on two cylinders unless the engine has experienced catastrophic failure/damage.
 
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